Here is a recent photo of a DC Pittman gear motor that I have built up for a power wrapper.
Also, note the attached DC power supply with on/off switch and reversing switch on the supply.
The pedal is used to change the dc voltage going to the motor which changes the speed from 0 to the motors maximum speed.

This setup is not suitable for handle turning, but only power wrapping. All of the speed reduction is done in the motors gear train, so only 1:1 pulleys are required to connect the motor to the power wrapper headstock shaft.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I generally use XL timing belt pulleys (2 inch diameter) and belts to connect the motor to the head stock shaft.

A very nice feature is the easy reverse of the motor. Hit the white switch and the polarity of the motor DC voltage connections reverse. When the voltage connections of a DC motor reverses, the motors direction reverses as well.

Since this particular pedal is NOT spring loaded, the pedal will stay at any particular position when the foot is off the pedal. So, one can use this set up for a no conversion dryer.

The top speed of this particular motor is about 500 rpm. So, after wrapping the rod, and aligning the guides and insuring that the rod is ready for finish, simply put the rod back in the wrapper, use any speed up to 500 rpm to apply finish. Stop at any point in rotation at any spot on the rod for finish application by simply lifting your foot.
Then, when all is level and ready for overnight drying, simply lift your foot to have the pedal and motor speed be at your desired drying speed of 6-20 rpm - depending on your particular preferences, or particular rod. Carefully take your foot off the pedal so that you don't change the speed of the motor and let the motor dry unattended.



Take care
Roger



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/19/2012 05:19PM by roger wilson.

Roger,

All of your posts regarding DC set ups have interested me. It seems that after much experimentation you have evolved to this neat and efficient package.

One obstacle to using motors found on the internet or on the side of the road is the transmission of power. Usually the output shaft is too short or too thin to attach a substantial pulley which is suitable to our needs. The one pictured looks small. However, you obviously find it to be adequate.

What size is the output shaft on this motor? What kind of pulley did you find for it?

Jim

James,
This particular output shaft is 1/4 inch.

But the main motor that I am currently using utilizes a 3/16th shaft.

Remember, these motors are for power wrappers - not lathes.

For turning handles, it just makes so much more sense to use a mini or midi wood working lathe. These lathes are set up specifically with the appropriate power and accessories to do an excellent job of turning handles for custom rods.

These motors are not suitable for turning handles. The speed is too slow with the 1:1 drive. Since the motors are used only for wrapping, there is not a great deal of power required for the drive transmission.

I mainly using 2 inch XL cogged wheels to transmit the power. There is no issue in getting XL 2 inch cogged wheels with a 1/4 or even 3/16th shaft size.

For example, this is the DC gear motor and chuck that I currently use on my power wrapper.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

This motor has a 3/16th shaft size and the chuck has a 1/2 inch shaft size. In this particular case, I had to use a 3/16th to 1/4 inch sleeve in the lower gear. In the picture above, the motor is inside the piece of pvc tubing. These motors do not have to be very large to have more than adequate power to do power wrapping. For the keyless chuck shown above, I use that chuck when I am wrapping a rod that has no butt cap on it. In that instance, I insert a solid piece of blank up the inside of the blank to mount the rod in the wrapper. Then, I chuck the solid blank into the chuck and tighten it up.

For the rods with finished handles, I have a 3 inch chuck that is mounted on a 1/2 inch straight arbor, that slips into the keyless chuck for easy use.

But, as you can see from the picture, one can make a pretty compact power head for a power wrapper using this system.


Roger



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/19/2012 09:21PM by roger wilson.

Roger,

I agree, 1/4 inch is a good diameter for a wrapping motor. It did not look sizable in the photo.

Thanks for your response.

Jim

James,
A pulley like this one works pretty well for most of the typical wrapper needs.
With the 1/2 inch center bore of the pulley - it is easy to insert the appropriate sized spacer sleeve to fit any smaller shaft motors.
Also, with the 1/2 inch center bore of the pulley - it is easy to use on a 1/2 inch head stock, or if needed; there is sufficient material to drill out the center of the pulley to accommodate a larger sized head stock shaft.
With the XL style cogged pulley and belt system, the belt does not have to be overly tight to insure non slip operation:

[www.shop.polybelt.com]

I prefer to use the 2 inch diameter pulley because it is large enough to have plenty of belt teeth to grab the pulley and insure non slip operation with a reasonably tight belt. Since the speed reduction is all done in the gear train of the motor, both the motor and the head stock shaft use the same size pulley.

Roger

I used a 12v dc motor out of an old drill.... works great... the only thing I need to complete is a good variable foot pedle setup.

Casey,
I did some experiments with this setup. The thing that you can do, is to take the trigger control out of the discarded drill parts pile. Then, fabricate a foot pedal, that would clamp the trigger control in such a way, that as you depressed the pedal, the trigger would be depressed.

Then, the only thing that you would have to do, is to connect the drill to either a 12 volt battery that had a charger connected to it, to keep the battery charged as you use the motor, or you could hook the pedal to a 12 volt power supply of enough capacity to run the motor.
Since you already have the motor working, you likely already have the power source.

Actually, if you were to find an AC linemaster control and take it apart, you would find that this is exactly how this commercial AC speed control is made. i.e. Linemaster takes a commercial AC/DC trigger control from a drill and then, places it on the bottom of their foot pedal. The top part of the pedal snaps down over the lower part of the pedal. The top part of the pedal contains a tab that is at 90 degrees to the surface of the top pedal surface but of course it is on the underside of the top pedal surface. Then, when the top pedal surface is depressed with the foot, the 90 degree tab moves toward the rear of the pedal. As it does, it depresses the drill trigger speed control. I am sure that Linemaster does this because by buying the controls in bulk, they likely get the controls for $1 each. Then, linemaster makes the mold and molds the nylon foot pedal. In the factory, the in and out lines are connected to the trigger switch, the trigger switch is laid in the bottom of the pedal and the top of the pedal is snapped to the bottom.

[datasheet.octopart.com]

So, if you purchased or found one of these controllers; you could possibly take it apart and replace the AC triac trigger setup that is in the pedal with the trigger setup that was in your DC phase width switcher that is common with DC drills and DC motor control.
Pop it in, (making any necessary changes to get it to fit), snap on the top cover and you should be good to go.

Roger

Casey,
By the way, a few years ago, I took a surplus 24 volt 2-speed DC drill and used it for a variable speed bench source. Due to the extra power of this drill, I commonly use it for glue ups for handles, and for doing some light handle turning, if I just want to touch up something.

In this case, I simply stripped the chuck and gear set out of the drill. I mounted the drill motor and gear case and motor in a bench mount. Since the drill motor uses quite a bit more power than the typical DC gear motors that I use for my other power wrappers, I needed a different and more powerful power supply. I looked around at my junk box and found that I had a robust transformer from an old church organ amplifier. So, I started with this heavy duty 10 amp transformer. Then, I built up a 10 amp variable voltage power supply that used a variable resistor to vary the voltage.

I then picked up a guitar amp Wa pedal in which to mount the variable resistor or potentiometer. The advantage of using the Wa pedal to mount the variable resistor, is that the "typical" pot that is mounted in the Wa pedal is driven by a rack and pinion gear drive.
i.e. there is a rack that is mounted on the underside of the moving pedal. As the rack moves up and down by the users foot, it is brought into contact with the pinion gear that is mounted on the shaft of the variable resistor. Thus, the 20-30 degrees of pedal movement translates into the full 270 degree of variable resistor movement. In addition, this pedal is NOT spring loaded. So, when using this 24 volt motor, the pedal can be left in any position for a continued constant speed on the motor. Thus, one can concentrate on what you are doing without worrying about controlling the speed, or if you want to use the motor as a dryer, simply adjust the pedal to get the necessary speed and leave the pedal at that position and the motor then functions nicely as a constant speed (any speed desired) dryer for long term drying needs.

Also, since this ends up being a 10 amp 0-30 volt DC supply, the same controller also works with all of my other wrapper motors of much smaller motors. Obviously I can't use the bigger drill motor with my smaller power supplies and pedal assemblies, but the larger one works fine to power the smaller units.

If you had any further questions - just drop me an e-mail.

Roger

hflier@comcast.net

Gosh. That looks like a great setup. Somebody's gonna get some good use out of that!

Where is everyone finding these wa wa pedals.. I have seen a few floating around but they were all 50.00 +. Im just not paying that much for something Im going to gut and rework.

thanks