I would like to know how much more slower or stiffer the 4wt is to the 2wt? this is my first time trying to compare fly rod blanks, I only built a 2wt so far, so I am just wondering, probably a hard ? to answer, but any help will be helpful and appreciated. Thanks!

Same model - same action. At least that is what the manufacturer shoots for. Only difference is that the #4 will be able to handle a heavier line - of course.
Herb

Action is independent of line weight rating. Some 2-weights are stiffer than some 4-weights. This all depends on what the manufacturer intended the rod to be used for and how much either line weight is required to hold past the tip to easily load the rod.

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My thiught was that the 4wt would be like twice the stifness or twice the slowness then the 2wt, I will just have to have it in my hands to tell the difference from the 2wt that i have. Thanks.

lorenzo tellez Wrote:
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> My thiught was that the 4wt would be like twice
> the stifness or twice the slowness then the 2wt, I
> will just have to have it in my hands to tell the
> difference from the 2wt that i have. Thanks.


That's not how it works.

It sounds like you need to spend some time casting fly rods/lines for different types of fish. Fast action is fast action, it doesn't matter 4wt or 8 wt. In general, heavier rods will be able to handle more load. Look at the common cents data for any given series of rods and you'll get more the feel for it.

Good luck.

Lorenzo, nothing particulary different about fly rods other than how they are rated. Think of the 2 weight/4 weight as lure ratings. You can look up how much the fly line weighs and convert to ounces. It isn't linear.....meaning there is less difference between a 2 and 4 weight than a 7 and 9 weight.

Don't confuse speed and power. Any particular fly rod might be faster or slower than another. Within reason though, a heavier weight fly rod should be more powerful.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Thanks all, so I should be good with the 4wt, simply cause the 4wt has more power, backbone, then the 2wt. now to look for a 4wt.

The problem is, line weights vary depending on how much of them you have the tip. One company may rate the 2-weight rods for 20 feet of line past the tip, and their 4-weights for 50 feet of line past the tip. That's problem when trying to compare fly rods - A dozen 4-weight rods may have widely varying differences in power/stiffness.

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I have to agree with Tom. I'm an avid fly fisherman,,,have been since I was 8. I build nothing but fly rods. My customers are all strictly fly rodders. I've a 3 wt that cast more like a 4wt and a 6wt that I have a 7wt line on and could probably even handle an 8wt well. Just because a given rod is rated a 4wt doesn't mean you should be using a 4wt line. Tom explained it as simple and as well as can be.

I would suggest setting up your 2 wt and rating it with the CC system. Then add enough pennies to load it like a 4 wt and see how much stiffer it probably will need to be. After the CC test you might want to try a 4 wt on the 2 wt rod that you have. Down in the light weights rod rating is pretty much of a gamble anyway. Good time to start to look at the CC system. Also there is (or at least there was) a data base and you might find some of the blanks you are looking at in it. Good way to compare rods for action and power.

Lorenzo:

I suggest you build the rod first and then find the line which it casts best. The "weight" of the blank should get you in the vicinity of the weight of the line which will best meet your needs, but NOT the taper which will best meet your needs. I suspect most 2-weight rods spend a lot of time roll casting. The line which roll casts best with your rod will have a significantly different taper than the line which will best make a 45 foot cast with your 2 weight.