it is the 1st time i'll work with micro
i choose to use KB#4 for stripper and 3/4 of the blank. and KT#4 for the near tip section.
from frame shape i knew i can't use forhan locking wrap on this
and have read Mr.Ising post in here that this frame have a featured named epoxy port.

do you have any experience what the best method to fill those tiny port and keep maintain straight edge finish
usually i applied my TM lite with 30RPM motor. do i need to add some extra height in my butt section support dryer and let the gravity and lite formula viscosity to do the job?
or i need to work with needle and manually fill it?

thanks

It will fit it itself by thevfinish leveling

I've use these several times and the "port" is really just a slit in the foot that runs to the front of the guide foot. It fills itself as the finish is applied. It is very difficult to make that edge entirely straight, and there tends to be a slight bulge right there. That appears to be the intention and that bulge keeps the guide from slipping forward. It works too, but it's a non-traditional look.

One tip-finish from back to front. Then the slit fills from back to front and pushes out any bubbles.

Good luck.

Drew

Who told you that you could not use a Forhan Locking wrap?

Steve,
With the shape of the foot, the length of the foot, and the design of the tunnel to be filled with epoxy are such that it is not conducive to block the end of the tunnel with a locking wrap.
Under normal circumstance, with the length of the guide foot on the KB guides - there should be 0 reason to use a locking wrap.

[anglersresource.net]

REW

Note:
On the KT guides, I use a locking wrap all of the time. But the KT guides have more room for the locking wrap and the guide foot is shorter - thus giving rise to a need for the locking wrap.

Roger;
In the link provided, it does not state: "Not to use Forhan's locking wraps" unless it is somewhere on another page.

It is my opinion that a locking wrap is still an advantage in this situation and that capillary attraction will pull the epoxy into the tunnel as it does with any other tunnel on similar guides.
That is unless you allow the epoxy thick thicken too much during application.

Your statement:
"Under normal circumstance, with the length of the guide foot on the KB guides - there should be 0 reason to use a locking wrap."
Then why use it on say 6,7,8,ECT. mm guides that all have longer feet then any Micro guide?

Steve and Roger
I dont have this 2 type of guide in my hand yet
but i have research about this several week. from what i see from google, locking wrap on this guide create big thread gap
that the 1st thing that i dont want in my rod
and as i mention above Mr Jim Ising have posted in this board that fuji have create some "epoxy port" to make it hold stronger in blank
but if you have tried work locking wrap in this guide(KT or KB) without create some gap
i'll be very happy if you can give me 1 photo of it, so i can figure it out by myself how to do it

Eric and Drew
thanks

Regards

Jack,
Your reasoning is correct and that is also the exact reason why I don't use a locking wrap on these style rods.
1. Not needed.
2. If used, there is a large thread gap at the end of the guide.

But, certainly the locking wrap can be used on virtually any guide if one wishes to put one on.

Roger

Roger
I agree with your last sentences
esthetic reason is the barrier

Regards

Jack;
It takes about 10 seconds to do a locking wrap. I suggest trying it, if you don't like the look don't use it.
But if you want a stronger hold on the guide? use it.

Steve
thanks for the advice
after read all posts in this thread.maybe i'll take both way to the test

thanks all :)

Fuji's epoxy port on KB and KT guides makes no final judgement about locking wraps. It's builders choice. Even thought the design goes a long way toward eliminating the need I can't help but think a few wraps beyond the foot would by definition make the bond a little stronger (esthetics aside). The question I suppose is whether or not the stresses would, could, should ever be sufficient to pull an "epoxy secured" versus a thread locked guide.

Most important is the progression of the steps involved. The threads above the "tunnel" must receive a generous enough portion of epoxy to seep through to the blank and actually run out the open end of the tunnel BEFORE the needle application of epoxy to the front of the port. Only then can the epoxy passing through the port join with the epoxy that has absolutely filled the tunnel assuring a solid continuous bead of contact from the front of the guide all the way back to the start of the foot. This is the capillary action Steve mentions. If you apply epoxy to the port too soon it will seep through and shut down the "escape tunnel" for epoxy seeping through the thread. The resulting trapped air will weaken the bond and probably make you wonder at some point if you should do a locking wrap on future guides.

This application is best achieved with a very quick and often sloppy "glob" of epoxy applied to the top of each foot along the full length of the rod. Generally, by the time you finish the last guide the epoxy will be running out the tunnel of the first guide and you can proceed to applying a small dab of epoxy to the port and finish the coating process. If there are ports that don't run through and meet the the "tunnel epoxy", they usually will with the final application of heat. This is not an objectionable look when done properly yet provides an amazingly strong bond.

Jim
I think angler resources could make 1 video tutorial or step by step tutorial on this special feature frame
maybe for senior builder it's not big deal but for beginner like me it's complicated enough

Thanks

I have been building with the KT and KB's almost exclusively for the last 2-3 years. I quit doing a locking wrap, Forhan or whatever method you want to name it for only a couple rods. Thats the only time i have had a guide come loose. The foot on the KT is still very short. I understand capillary effect very well since I'm a mechanical engineer, by trade. I have built many rods for tournament anglers, just like Steve Gardner. Some rods are badly abused and some are well maintained. If you pack tightly there is a very small gap. And depending on the thread color, it is usually insignificant. I have to point it out for the customer to even see it. I will not build a rod without the wrap unless someone wants to hang the rod on the wall. And, then they don't want my rod. I want my rods to be pretty, aesthetically pleasing, or whatever, but I most want my rods to catch fish. So far the largest bass caught on one of my rods has been an 11-8 largemouth on a 5oz Alabama rig with 80# braid, all KB guides, with a locking wrap. If you want to make something pretty you can always join a pottery class.

Todd Badgley