I purchased TM Lite this past February and built my first rod. The epoxy on that rod still appears clear. However, I just built a new rod a couple weeks ago and the epoxy has already yellowed. It is the first time I used it since February but it has been stored in a cool dark cabinet. Is it just old or did I mix it incorrectly?

Neither. Yellowing or ambering of the epoxy is normal. It happens in the bottle and on the rod. Not much you can do about it.

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Thad,
The typical yellowing of epoxy finish is a good reason to stay away from light wrapping colors.

Roger

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
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> Neither. Yellowing or ambering of the epoxy is
> normal. It happens in the bottle and on the rod.
> Not much you can do about it.
>
> ................

So, why hasn't his first rod yellowed?

If it hasn't already, it will. Give it time.

Also, the thread color tends to reveal more or less of this coloration depending on what color the thread is. The yellowing is more noticeable on light colors than darker ones.

..............

There is a big difference between finish mixed 99.9% and finish mixed 100%. It is our opinion that the finish was under mixed.

We have a video on our website about properly mixing finish. See the link below.

[www.flexcoat.com]

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

Also you must realize that when looking at the epoxy in the bottles you are looking at about 1 inch of thickness. The finish on the guide is a small fraction of that. Therefore you don't see much color in the finish. Even after mixing and pouring it out on a flat surface, you will not perceive much in the way oy color. I really like using the 000 silk thread for the really small guides and the thread always goes invisible with the epoxy, even if it is yellow in the bottle. Mix her up & use it & drink a home brew beer & don't worry. It'll look great.
BTW, several years ago, I went by Scott Parsons shop & looked at the test samples of the various epoxy finishes and the Threadmaster Lite was performing great in the Raleigh sunshine with very little discoloration.
Bill

Rodbuilders are a lazy group. Take an hour and mix up all the finishes that you use, our them out on waxed paper. When they cure pop them off and wrap half of the flat disc with aluminum foil. Put the disks in the sun for a week or 2, better to do this during the summer when UV is the strongest. You'll be shocked at how much some fo the epoxies turn brown. SOme of hte most popular one will turn in a day or 2. What you shouldnt' do is believe ANYTHING you read, learn for yourself. It takes work and time to do this, most want others to do everything for them so they end up with a lot of confusion because a lot of people have no clue what they are talking about or are affiliated with a product.

I have a dozen disks from various finishes and mixes, TM Lite is not one of them though.

@billy V:
what you mean with TM lite is not one of them?
is not one of them that fast yellowing or not one of them you have test?
I ask this because i just purchase them :(

I have not test TM Lite. I don't need a finish like that for the rods I build so I didn't need to test it. I have no opinion on it either, but dont' worry about buying it, if it isn't a product you like it's not that big of a deal there are so many products that we buy in every day life that just aren't what we want, just try somethign else and use it on repairs or loaner/freebie/beater rods. No epoxy goes to waste! And a lot of guys like TM Lite, so I think you'll be happy with it.

I used the same thread for both rods. It is a greyish blue. Its not too light though. The first rod looks great. This second rod just has a light green tint to it where the thread is blue and the epoxy has yellowed. I've painted hundreds of lures and coated them with epoxy and haven't noticed near the yellowing I did with TM Lite. Must have been my mixing.

So if I want to use this blue thread, or anyother light thread in the future, what is my best option for finish?

Not for nothing - but

I was thinning TM high build with a mid - temp lacquer thinner It worked - But I then started playing with Klass Kote and am now thinning the high build TM with there mid - temp urethane reducer Mixes well Do not need a lot No bubbles Sets in the same time as using it from the bottle But thinner Flows - VERY NICE - sets at the same time have some Auto Clear and have not tried the reducer - YET
No yellow have not seen any type of color change Yet it is thinner ??

Have also used flex coat UV the new stuff Nice Clear levels nice

On light colors --- permagloss or LumiSeal may be better

Got to PLAY See what works for you ---- Like Billy said

Bill - willierods.com