Hi Gents,
Had my first go at using the stuff and it looks like it's turned out pretty good. Wanted to say thanks to Tom for the articles in Rodmaker. Wasn't as difficult as I expected although the humidity is pretty low here at this time of year, will be totally diferent in six months so should have another go then to see what it's like. Anyone thinking of using it should go ok if you follow Tom's directions. The only thing I found was the storage tin. Put a fairly large screw eye in the tin but the stuff doesn't come out very quickly, had to squeeze the can and it leaks a bit more than I would like. I've got another tin and will solder a bigger brass nut to it and put a screw in with a rubber seal.
Covered some stained cork with it on a rebuild and although the grips were good, it's not the best quality cork. Will post a pic or two when I get the rod finished.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

It's okay if it has to squeezed out, drop by drop. That's what you want. It's not really the size of the opening you're fighting, it's the fact that a bit of a vacuum is being created within the can.

................

Hi Tom,
Thanks for more info on the stuff. My first thought when it was coming out so slowly, about one drop every 5 seconds despite the tin being full, was that the stuff was going to go sticky too quickly and would be hard to apply. That wasn't the case but the low humidity might have a bit to do with that. What do your think is the biggest size opening you could get away with? I'm still going to solder a nut and use a screw with a seal to prevent leakage but the size of the opening will depend on your response as you have got a lot more experience with the stuff than me, I'm just a learner with this product despite my first effort being pretty good.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

The PG will form its own seal - no need for a nut or anything of that sort. The first time it will leak a bit, but will quickly seal. I'd guess the hole in my can is no more than 1/16th to 1/8th inch.

PG will set more quickly in high humidity and less quickly in low humidity. It's a moisture curing urethane so the more moisture it's exposed to, the faster it sets.

..............

I use PG and Lumiseal and keep them in little cans. My work area is in my basement where the temp is about 62F all the time. I just put my can of PG under a a desk lamp for a few minutes and it warms up the gas in the can and that increases the flow. i then tighten the screw back and it reseals itself. Rod Dancer is coming out with a new one part finish that is a water based urethane. I assume that will eliminate the little can. Scott Parsons told me that the surface will be a little more glossy than PG. I am looking forward to that as well.

Mike Blomme

No 12Sheet Metal Scew Coarse Threads - tapered not a fine thread maching screw

Click on [www.rodbuilding.org]

The screw is tapered - when you break it loose and screw it out you can adjust from from a drop to a continuous flow.

The screw never comes all the way out -

Repeated use will actually build an external sealing surface of Permagloss to form the sealing surface when the screw is retightened to shut off flow.

Upon initial installation loosen it to allow the contents to make the seal suface around the screw The first time turn the can so the screw is now on top till the gasket surface cures. Make the intiail fill of the can with two bottles to completely fill. The can top and room heat is used as the pump to assist in controlling flow.

NO RUBBER SEAL - IT WILL BE GONE QUICKLY

iT WORKS !



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/18/2012 10:45AM by Bill Stevens.

Thanks Tom, Michael and Bill for the info.
I'll learn eventually!!!

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

What issue has the article in it?

Hi Craig,
14-4 and 13-3 have application techiques for brush(13-3) and foam brush(14-4), the foam brush works pretty good. There's also a article on storage but can't find it. Email Tom and he will set you straight. Not hat difficult to get a good result with the stuff if I can do it on my first go. The humidity here is low at the moment and that gives you a fair bit of working time. Higher humidity shortens the pot life but haven't got any experience with that yet.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

Hello Col.

The article "can it" is in 15-1 on page 22!

The humidity here in North Carolina right now is so bad you can stand outside in the shade and if you don't get wet from the sweat you will from the condensation of humidity, temps in the high 90's with the humidity in the 90's to 100 when it is raining.

Our heat index yesterday was 105-110 with 97% humidity, it will be a little better tomorrow.
When it does rain the steam comes up from the ground and a road will have lots of steam.

Have a good winter Col right now it's to hot to even fish!

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Thanks guys

Hi Bob,
NEVER too hot to fish. Don't worry when your humidity gets low we will have what you've got now. Looked in that issue and didn't see it, blind in one eye and can't see out of the other one!!
Take it easy and don't let the humidity get to you.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

The product is aided in the cure cycle by moisture - no problems with high humidity.

Moisture is actually needed for it to function properly.

The product can be quite finicky in low humidity conditions - this is when the problem with small bubbles arises.

Hello Col.

My list say's the article (Can It )(PG/LS Cans) writen by Keith Saunders should be there(15/1) on pg 22, but when I go home tonite I will double check.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Hello Col & Craig

Sorry for the mix-up Col & Craig, I guess the info was ment more for Craig than Col but is correct, in 15/1 pg 22-23 is an article by Keith Saunders called "Can It" about putting Perma Gloss from a bottle into a can for better storage and dispensing.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Thanks for the follow up Robert.