I am finally getting around to building a Steffen Brothers 7' 9", 3 piece 6/7 weight fly rod for fishing hex and mouse patterns for big brown trout. Mark Steffen suggested the following spacing for this custom blank, however I could use some help on selecting the size of snake guides and stripper to optimize this rod.

tip top: size 5

#1 - 4 3/4" = 4 3/4" size #2 snakes?
#2 - 5 1/4" = 10" #2
#3 - 5 3/4" = 15 3/4" #2
#4 - 6 1/2" = 22 1/4" #2
#5 - 7" = 29 1/4" #2
#6 - 7 3/4" = 37" #2
#7 - 8 1/2" = 45 1/2" #2
#8 - 9" = 54 1/2" #6
#9 - 9 3/4" = 64 1/4" 10 mm Struble dark red agate nickle silver stripper guide
Is this stripper guide too small? It seems rather close to the blank. Should I use one with a higher frame?

Thanks for your suggestions in advance!

Peter, personally I would follow his recommendations. One thing you can do to really check the spacing would be to tape all the guides on the blank, run a fly line thru the guides and put the line and blank under some tension. Object is to make sure the line and blank are following the same curve, without the line touching the blank and no "flat" spots on the line between guides. Might need a minor adjustment on guide spacing but I would bet they are going to be really close.

The stripper guide will be fine also, plus it will give the rod a classy retro look. I have used them on some of my glass builds and they work just fine with the ring setting lower in the frame. Glass is some sweet stuff to build on and fish!

IT's your build and its called custom rod building for a reason. Take his suggestion for what is, a suggestion. Tape some guides on and test it. The blank will tell you what it likes.

I need to clarify: Mark gave me guide spacings, but NOT guide sizes. I guessed at the sizes, based on previous advice from the rod board to get the line close to the blank as quickly as possible. So what I really need to know: Given a size 5 tip top and using 8 snake guides plus a stripper guide; is MY configuration using a low frame #10 stripper followed by one #6 and seven #2s reasonable based on the above premis?

Good Morning Peter,

If the #2 snake guide will pass the knots easily, then they are large enough. if they don't pass the knots, go up one size and check again. I also wonder about guide #8 which is a size #6. Is this a snake guide as well? If it is, then it is another running guide and I would make it a size #2 as well. If I were building this rod, I would probably use another "stripping guide probably a #8 or make the butt guide a #12 and the next guide a #10.
These choices are not written down in stone. Rod building is not a theoretical activity and is an experimental (trial and error) process. The best advice I can give you is to tape the guides on and find a nice park and test cast the rod 10 or more times. Then shift the butt guide 2 inches closer to the reel and cast another ten times and compare to your first set of casts. Repeat this process when you shift the butt guide 2 inches closer to the tip. You should be able to determine which of these positions is best. You can then make adjustments to any of the other guides if needed. I also hope you have done a static distribution test to see how guides follow the curvature of the rod when it is under flex. If you go to the library at the top of the page, you will find an entry for the Static Distribution Test and fly guide sizing. I hope this helps. Good luck.

Sincerely,

Mike Blomme

I normally use a high frame spinning guide for my fly rod stripper guides. It tends to reduce line slap when initially shooting line. Just a bit.

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