I was wondering if this has ever happened to anyone, I have spined many blanks before and never had the problem. I just got an MHX surf blacnk from one of the sponsors here and while trying to locate the spine the first 6 inches snapped off pretty clean. No splinter or excessive fray ?? Not blaming the blank, could have been the way I was trying to find the spine which is the same way I always do it, tip to the floor.

Maybe this is not the best way to do it ?


Just looknig for some feed back.


Fernando Torres-NERB

That's why you use the vertical axis to determine guide placement. Here's some of the info on this: [rodbuilding.org]

If you are dead-set on determining the spine, it is generally preferable to use butt to the floor, not tip.

Fernando would you please give some more detail on what " tip to the floor" means -

It could make a difference -

How, where and in what direction did you apply the load -

Did you put the tip on the floor - rod straight up at 90 degrees - and push down to see which way it jumped?

How much was the blank deflected when it broke?

Assuming you did not do anything to cause the break yourself, such as pinching the blank between thumb and forefinger, you may simply have gotten a bad blank, or one that had been bumped or whacked during shipping. I'd call Mudhole and explain the situation to them.

..............

Tip to the floor simply means I ouyt the tip on the floor and looked for the blamk to jump to the natural bend in it. I di dnot put any more pressure than I normally do. Tom I did not pinch the blank in anyway. I'm not looking to pass the blame or point fingers, just never happened before. I will call MudHole and see whst they say, since I got the blank from them...




Thanks for the feed back.


Fernando Torres-NERB

Unless you put the blank in an arc over 90 it sounds like one the fell though the cracks

They will probably replace it

Bill - willierods.com

I will follow up with MudHole and see what feed back they give. Like I said not pointing the finger or passing the buck, just wondering why ? How much of the action is affected with 6"of the tip off ? I know it will not be as sensetive, but will it still be useable ?


Thanks for all the replies.


Fernando Torres-NERB

You should be glad it failed at this point. Better that after the build and sale. My opinion is that 6" is very important if you liked the action of the rod. Yet I have know people who cut the tip off blanks to make them stiffer. Email the supplier and get another blank. There are some blanks that naturally have weak tips. I had one Sage that I used to keep one of the broken tips in my desk desk drawer to play with. You could just snap it like broken glass. No fibers, no give, nothing but a snap at relatively low pressure.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/28/2012 04:57PM by Bill Moschler.

What about the T & T blanks that i have read that when you clean them with Alcohol -- the finish comes off ??? And you pay - How Much For them

Bill - willierods.com

A full 6-inches off the tip will result in a markedly different rod blank. Much slower action, higher lure weight casting range, etc.

Occasionally someone will snap a blank while flexing it during spine finding or guide placement. It can happen if there is a flaw or damage anywhere along the blank, particularly near the tip.

I can't speak for Mudhole, but I'm betting they'll take care of you.

.............

Hi Fernando,
Had that happen to me about 25 years ago on a glass rod. I still test the same way without a problem so I'm thinking the blank had a problem. As Tom has said you will have a very different blank. If you can't get it replaced or you get to keep it you will have to build something fairly different to what you first intended.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

Fernando,
Not your problem. It is the problem of the blank.
I always give each and every blank a good flex or stress test before I ever to a single thing on a blank. Basically, do exactly what you do. i.e. put the tip on the floor and starting at the tip stress and flex the rod so that all parts of the rods get pretty much the maximum possible bend in them. i.e. I will flex the tip section up to about 70 degrees along with the rest of the blank up to its near maximum deflection angle.

In all of the years building, I have only had about 3 or 4 blanks break. But I very much want a blank to break during this test if it is going to fail at all from a manufacturing or shipping defect.
That way, I have 0 time invested in the blank as well as 0 materials cost for grips, reel seat and guides.

I will say that I have broken quite a few ice rod blanks when doing this test. This was especially true in the years when I used to make ice rods from hollow blanks. In recent years, I simply will not build an ice rod on a hollow blank. Just too many problems with cold weather, short high modulus graphite and breakage during use. I now, only build ice rods on either solid core graphite blanks, or solid core fiberglass blanks. My blank and rod failure rate has dropped to near zero using these blanks compared to using hollow blanks for this particular part of the fishing rod market.

Good luck and just have the manufacturer replace the blank.

REW

Reading this again, I get the idea that some are standing the blanks vertically on end, and pressing straight down. This isn't a good idea, nor does it find the effective spine per the entire blank length.

Such practice is close to "high sticking" although not quite, and yet it puts an extreme amount of stress on the weakest area of the blank - the tip. It should also be remembered that the spine is an effect, not a thing, and as more and more of the blank is flexed, the effect changes location. While I see no need to spine a blank, if you do it, flex the blank over it's entire length and not by pressing the tip into the floor from a vertical position.

...................

Hi Tom,
You make a good point. I don't do it that way but with a butt to floor, two fingers on the tip and the third finger about 18-24 inches from the tip then slowly lift. The one I broke was probably a blank problemas it has never happened before or since. I realise that it probably doesn't make a lot of difference but I still like to build on the spine unless there is a serious bend in the blank and if that was the case I'd be looking for a replacement.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

This may sound odd, but I prefer a nice gentle overall bend or curve to the blank. This allows the weight of the components to straighten the blank upon building. Starting with a perfectly straight blank results in a curved rod once completed.

But I'm with you on a severe bend, curve or warp, particularly over a short section. It's not a good thing.

................

Hi Tom,
I checked a few of my light rods and that is the case but the curve is very slight and not noticeable. To each his own I suppose and I'm happy with the way they perform and that is probably all that matters. I've found that the spine is usually the straightest axis but obviously that is not always the case.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

Tom:

I did not not have the blank vertically and with severe pressure on it, I had it the way I normally do which is horizontal with minimal pressure on it. I did go over ths situation with Sean at MudHole and he has sent out another blank. Mudholes customer service and attention to details makes them a great sponsor to work with. They go above and beyond the call of duty. Lesson learned, I will be that much more careful when spining my blanks.


Thanks again to Sean for his help in this matter.



Fernando Torres-NERB

Hello Fernando.

If you have the MudHole 2012 "Product Catalog", on page 5 they show how to determin the spine.

Happy wraps tight wraps and a smooth finish.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.