Well guys I got my Swampland Tackle blank in and let me tell you it is an awsome blank. I cut it down to 7'4" put a eva fighting but on it with a total length 13" cork handle. With a 5" forgrip and I love the way the rod feels and the power that it has. Plus as promised it cast like a dream i have only made just a few cast with it and it launches everything I have tried so far.

The question that I have is I'm putting 9+lb of drag on this blank and going to be using it for fish up to 50lb and when it is fully loaded my line will just barely rub the top of the blank between the reel and stripper guide and then between the guides at the 2-3,3-4,4-5 locations from the top. I am using a 12,10,10,8,8,8,8,8,8 guide configuration. Is this aceptable for slight rub at max load or do I need to look into higher frame guides I would like to keep them low to keep any torsional load as low as possible since it is a conventional guide configuration. Oh and I'm casting a uni to uni knot between 50lb mono and 40lb braid through the guides and reel level line with ease.

On a rod like this what is the yalls oppinion on underwraps or not. Without them I could save some more weight but with them thats a little bit more clearance for my guides.

The guides are AM tac Titanium Virtus
Reel is a Curado 300E

Justin,

Being a freshwater guy personally, this is something that I don't have to worry about much in my builds. What species are you fishing for? Do they make very long and/or very fast runs? If you feel that you have adequate stopping power for your quarry, then a little line touch won't be a deal breaker (because the line touch will likely occur only when the line is stopped), but if you feel that you aren't going to be in control of the fight until the fish is worn down, then be sure keep the line off of the blank.

Take a look at your static placement again as well. You may find that you can get away with spacing the guides near the tip a bit further apart allowing you to get by with the same guide train. Also try adding one more 8 before going to larger guides. A single 8 may be less of a weight penalty than upping the size of your running guides across the board.

Joe

If the line just touches the blank under very heavy load you'll be fine. You won't be reeling when the rod is flexed so it's not a problem whatsoever. I would make sure the line height between the reel and the butt guide doesn't cut into your foregrip or interfere with your handling the rod there. That's about it.

Put your mind at ease and continue with the assembly.

............

Have you thought of a Spiral Wrap

Bill - willierods.com

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> If the line just touches the blank under very
> heavy load you'll be fine. You won't be reeling
> when the rod is flexed so it's not a problem
> whatsoever. I would make sure the line height
> between the reel and the butt guide doesn't cut
> into your foregrip or interfere with your handling
> the rod there. That's about it.
>
> Put your mind at ease and continue with the
> assembly.
>
> ............

I won't be reeling but I will be having drag pull very quickly since my target fish are kings and lings mostly.

I have thought about spiral and almost had myself convinced that's how I was going to go but with the knot I'm casting I think it would be a little more problematic than a conventional wrap.

I think either add another guide or go with it the way it is but still open to suggestion.

If you guides are not permanent or wrapped onto the rod
put the 8's at the 180 or bottom Static test you may be able to get rid of one guide One or both of the 10's may go Run the line and try to get a Straight line path changing guide sizes to the butt guide
Butt at about 0 -10 degrees over to the handle side 8 or 7 - clearing knots - as a bumper
Where the line hits the blank I always bend a double foot to get the ring as close as I can to the blank A 12 then a 10 may work

Let the line tell you the sizes of the guides and where they go Straight line path

Try casting it

Bill - willierods.com

Well I added one more size 8 into the equation and made it happen! Now there is one thing I was overlooking I was flexing the rod to an extreme that I normally wouldn't do because in a situation with drag being pulled straight down I always bow down to the fish and the line has no clearance issues at all in that situation which is a more realistic situation compared to how I tested the blank. Hopefully it can get thread and epoxy this weekend and if this wind can ever lay I can test it out next weekend.

This project proves that when a skill angler works with custom builders ---- listens---- identifies problems ---- implements all good practice - new things that work can result.

Justin now you can go to the platforms - beat on the metal pilings to make a racket to call the ugly ones to come take a look at your new rod! Select an 80# lemon with a huge Pilot fish rider and show the beast who is boss!

This one has been a good ride for all of the involved.

Went and made the last test cast with a 1 oz and it just zings it with almost no effort I'm very excited to get it out in the open and really put some power into it and see what it can do. I suspect this would be a excellent rod for throwing lures in the surf also.

Justin; You ought to try and get Bill to let you borrow one of the prototypes he's harboring. If you fish the breakwalls for bass you'll like it. A little heavier than what you have but casts quite well.