Kids, do not try this at home. This stunt was done by amateurs and should not be imitated.

Last night I took a scrap piece of rod blank about the size and taper of my next rod. I carefully applied wax as described in previous posts. I reamed each cork ring to the right size hole and slapped on some Rod Bond to build a grip. I intended to use the scrap piece of blank as a mandrel. When I got home today from work I ran (not really) to my den and proceeded to undo the cork clamp. I twisted on the grip and tried to get it to break free. Nada, nothing, zippo!!!

So, I took it out to the shop and grabbed my rubber mallet. Whack, whack, whack....nothing.

So I gabbed my ball peen (12oz). Smack, smack, smack...nothing, except the end of the blank was starting to deform.

So I drilled a counterbore into a block of wood and slipped it over the blank to reinforce the blow of the hammer. SMACK, SMACK, WHACK!!!!

I gave up after finally shattering the scrap piece of blank. It was unintentional, but it's very obvious that Rod Bond is one tough adhesive. I'm going to glue the next set of rings to the real blank and turn them on the rod.

And Yes, I was wearing my eye protection!

Dont know but maybe after the cork is clamped, can you take the blank out? Then let it dry?

I think you have discovered why I prefer to glue/clamp and turn the cork on the blank. I prefer to take care in turning the cork than shattering blanks (a little masking tape to protect the adjacent surfaces is highly recommended).......

Thats why I use all thread and coat with parafin, and I have no trouble takeing cork of the all thread. Then I slide cork on a mandrel then turn cork. I have never done what you done but parafin works real well for me.. Thanks Dave's Custom Rods

I use all thread with Johnson's Paste Wax with the same result as Dave. Simply chuck the all thread in an electric drill, hold the cork grip firmly and spin the all thread out of the grip. I suspect any good coating of wax will release when twisted with some fair amount torque

Here is something that I learned many years ago when I spoiled a very expensive aero space mold, and had to redo the entire part at a considerable loss to my budget.

When waxing a mold (your blank is the mold in this case) waxes make a very good primer for the adhesive, unless they are polished. If you merely apply the wax, and let it dry, the adhesive will stick to it very tenaciously. Apply the wax -- then polish it with a seperate polishing rag, and it will usually release. Keep in mind that rodbond has far greater wetting characteristics than the usuall paste adhesive, it was designed thataway, this means that it will easily partially penetrate one measly little waxed surface, and cling to the waxed surface.

Another hint when gluing rings for a handle. Apply rodbond to your cork surface--then scrape off all the applied resin--I mean literally ALL of it. Apply it to one surface, scrape it all off then put the next cork to that surface with a twisting motion. Apply rodbond to the next surface, scrape it all off, put the next cork to that surface with a twisting motion----keep going until you have all corks in place--then apply your clamping pressure. Check all bond lines, if you notice any squeeze out, you didn't scrape off ALL the resin and you may have a visible glue line in that area. Any area where there is no squeeze out, there will be no visible glue line. Also no resin to glue to your mandrel and the mandrel will release with ease. The corks will bonded as though they are all now ONE. You are applying rodbond to one surface---with a rigid instrument such as a knife blade--you are scraping off all the applied resin, then you are bonding it to the next surface which is bare cork. Try it, you'll like it.

Ralph

Ralph - Thanks for the tip! I didn't realize that "no squeeze out" was the benchmark we should be striving for. As a woodworker, that seems odd. But it's your adhesive.

Rick,
I made a mold for a drift boat years ago and a number of boats were made from the mold. When waxing the mold so that the fiberglas boat would come out of the mold nothing but pure Carnuba wax is used. Any wax that has a detergent in it, which automobile waxes have, will result in the same problem you had, the part will stick in the mold. Another mold releasing agent that can be used is Polyvinylalcohol. It is a liquid that can be wiped or sptayed on and dissolves in water. If your part sticks to the mold (or your rod) you simply wet it with water and the water will work it's way in between the two so they can be seperated.
I'll bet a nickle that you used wax intended for automotive applications that had a detergent in it.

You are right on my friend!

Live and learn, with a little help from my friends, Thanks!

This is Good to read this post Now I can do my own cork handles and not be suck between a rocj=k and a hard place. Thanks for this web site and ideas. Lance

Thought about this so I tried gluing cork?? Used a threaded shaft! Sprayed Pledge on it! Applied Rod Bond. Put the cork on -two washers-two nuts- tightened. Cork now clamped. This morning I tuck off one nut and washer. Tightened the other nut. -( Cork Came Right Off )- Did it twice. I don't see what the problem is???

Threaded shaft can also be used to shape the cork

Bill,
With Pledge I would be a little worried about the cork later not sticking to a blank that you wanted it to stick to because of the oil in the Pledge. Have you tryed it ? Does the cork stick OK when you use epoxy and want it to stick after having used Pledge?

emory seems if you want the pledge to stick to the blank all you have to do is put parrifin wax on the blank. (just kidding).