I was about ready to start building a 9'6" 8wt for carp and mousing. My thought was to go 20, 16,12, to a #5 DF and then #3 DFs to a large TT. The reason for this setup was simple, this is close to how the textbook says to do it. Now after reading some recent posts and remembering some older ones I think it may be time to retool. Current thinking is to go 14, 10, then ceramic single foot 6s to a matching TT. After a quick look to the left it apears that the guides may be 4-5 times more money than the first setup. Im not real familiar with the micro guides having only built flyrods so alittle help would be nice, but mainly looking for thoughts on the setup.

You'll want to make sure that #6's will pass all your required connections. Otherwise you'll be fine. You do not need 5 different guide sizes on that rod. That accomplishes nothing.

Not sure you can find a #14 guide - I'd use a high frame (spinning type) #16 there.

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On my 8wts I used single foot wire running guides. I use security wraps and have never had one pull out. My standard setup is 16, 12, 5, 3,3,3,3,3,3 with a large wire tip top. These are mostly saltwater rods. On larger wt rods I use Amtack Titanium Ring Lock guides which are very expensive.

last year I did an 8wt carp rod on an old Herters fiberglass blank.
If I remember right,I can double check, I used 16 and 12 strippers, then an 8 single foot and 6's the rest of the way out with a standard TT.
I used fuji alconites which kept the cost down quite a bit and I think they still perform well.

Those single foot ceramic 6's will be really small. Might work, but at the limit if you know what I mean. 7's would be a better choice and even 8s would work well.

I have 1 8wt with ceramics, and just replaced AT NIRLFs #7s with Fuji TKTAG 7s due to bending issues with the NIRLF guides. Definitely would not want to go smaller than 7s for what I do with it. Also, I built this rod last year as an experiment with ceramics on a fly rod, and while I like the way it fishes, the 8 weights I have built since have been with REC snake guides and a ceramic titanium tip (Fiji TFAT). To me, the ceramic tip-top at the tip is great, but harder to tell in the running guides.

Drew

My saltwater fly set ups are close to what Bob detailed in terms of sizing. I stopped using the ceramic running guides in favor of the REC double foot snakes for my 8wt's and above. I think the REC snakes hold up a bit better for those who fish out of a skiff or bay boat. Most store their rods in under gunwhale racks with the tip section in some sort of tube. As you slide the rod tip into the tube, you have to be careful not to catch a guide on the edge of that tube. In bumpy conditions, becomes that much more difficult so my feeling is why risk a potential problem on the water. Just a personal preference based upon my experiences out on the water. Similar to Drew, I like the ceramic Fuji top.

I am going to throw in my two cents and recommend you use your original setup except drop the #20 stripper and go 16, 12. I suggest Batson LXN or Fuji KW strippers rather than UD or N style. Double foot snake guides let knots and loops pass through more easily.

Greg Foy Wrote:
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> I am going to throw in my two cents and recommend
> you use your original setup except drop the #20
> stripper and go 16, 12. I suggest Batson LXN or
> Fuji KW strippers rather than UD or N style.
> Double foot snake guides let knots and loops pass
> through more easily.


Agree with this completely. Especially the Fuji KW guides as strippers. The titanium ones are expensive but super solid and beautifully finished. The normal stainless ones have the best finish I have seen on any rod guides from any manufacturer.

I have also used the Batson guides and prefer the look of the MXNs over the LXNs on a medium heavy rod like this. If you use the Batson guides, make sure you get the ones with the part number starting with "X" as they have the better grade of stainless.

Drew