Hey quick question for all you carbon fiber builders. Do you all build the handle on a mandrel the same size as the rod blank it will go on. Or do you build it on a smaller manderal then drill everything out to the correct size?


Thanks

Casey

Use a smaller mandrel, whatever matches the center core of the core you’re using, and then ream to fit. You want to keep the core as thick as possible, which makes it easier to work with. The way I turn the cores down to the same diameter they will go on the finished rod is to make arbors from masking tape at the end of the core and sand down to that diameter.

mike harris Wrote:
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> Use a smaller mandrel, whatever matches the center
> core of the core you’re using, and then ream to
> fit. You want to keep the core as thick as
> possible, which makes it easier to work with. The
> way I turn the cores down to the same diameter
> they will go on the finished rod is to make arbors
> from masking tape at the end of the core and sand
> down to that diameter.


The masking tape idea is a great idea.... Im curious how you are drilling or reaming them to fit. Lets say I use a .250" mandrel but the rod blank it will go on is .75". How would I go about drilling the handle to fit.

I guess I should say I have all sorts of different items to drill the handle however im worried about drilling it straight. Bits tend to wander and it seems to me that the starting end would be good however whent he bit comes through the other end it would be off center.

I however have not drilled a foam core so I do not know.

Probably the easiest way is to make you a pilot paddle drill bit, or buy one, that is close to the .dia of the blank. you may still need to reem or sand the I.D. for perfect fit.

This is the way I learned at the Riley Rods seminar during the 2011 ICRBE. Their website has more detailed instructions.

The foam is poured into a mold around a 1/4" mandrel.

A3/8" Flex Coat cork drill bit is used to open the center of the core to accept a 3/8" turning mandrel. You can learn how to modify a speed bore bit yourself from a RodMaker DVD or their magazine article.

The core is shaped, carbon skin is applied, epoxy is applied and dried on the 3/8" mandrel. RodMaker has an article on using urathane as the final coat after the epoxy has dried. A good thing to do.

The center of the core of the finished handle is then reamed to fit the blank with Batson Dream Reamer type tool.

When a striper hit my lure for the first time using one of these foam core carbon handles it felt like an electric shock.

James Whelan Wrote:
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> When a striper hit my lure for the first time
> using one of these foam core carbon handles it
> felt like an electric shock.


Is that a good thing or bad thing that "electric Shock"?

My only concern with these foam cores is that over time the foam inside begins to collapse and things start to get funky. After yanking in fish after fish it seems the front grip especially would be under tremendous load.

Maybe an un warrented thought but iver never used them.

But they sure are perdy!!!!

and on another note... is there anything else that could be used other than the expandable foam? Not that the foam wont work well, just curious if there are any other options


thanks

No, they wont deteriorate. I suggest the 8 lb foam per the article.

.............

Dick Ross Wrote:

> Is that a good thing or bad thing that "electric
> Shock"?


This particular 11' rod will be used to bucktail the breechways. Any extra sensitivity is good in this situation, as one wants to feel the bottom tics and make an immediate hook set on the bite. Otherwise, we ocean spin pluggers have not taken "sensitivity" as seriously as our sweet water brethren.

Casey Abell Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> My only concern with these foam cores is that over
> time the foam inside begins to collapse and things
> start to get funky. After yanking in fish after
> fish it seems the front grip especially would be
> under tremendous load.
>
> Maybe an un warrented thought but iver never used
> them.
>
> But they sure are perdy!!!!

I am not sure how this foam will degrade. Properly built, the carbon skin will outlast a cork grip. My guess is it would crumble instead of get soggy since it is closed cell. It comes in different grades. For example, my rod handles are built using 6 lb grade density, which means 6 lbs./ cubic foot. There is also 16 lb available, however, at what point does one lose the strength/weight advantage?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/13/2012 01:59PM by James Whelan.

The carbon skin isn't what makes the grip sensitive - it's just a covering. The foam is the secret. In fact, if you simply painted it and used it as is you'd have an even more sensitive grip than the same thing covered in a carbon skin.

The 8lb density offers the best compromise of rigidity to weight.

...........

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The carbon skin isn't what makes the grip
> sensitive - it's just a covering. The foam is the
> secret. In fact, if you simply painted it and used
> it as is you'd have an even more sensitive grip
> than the same thing covered in a carbon skin.
>
> The 8lb density offers the best compromise of
> rigidity to weight.
>
> ...........

I agree.

Good info. Thanks

Harry T. Bell

What about Durability With out the skin will it not be easy to get damaged from nicks and dents

Bill - willierods.com

Just a Question here, I visited Riley Rods site this morning and they seem to have an extensive outline on this procedure and build and they also carry the products to get a novice started up along with detailed written description on how to do it ! No pictures for the procedure write up however so if your looking for that its a no. If your builder-savvy you can pretty much figure this one out on your own. Now to my question why are they not in our sponsor list they do post the Logo for rodbuilding.org. I think they would be a good asset or at least a good go to for what folks are looking for ! Just my thoughts here, it answered allot of questions I had on procedure and products and even prices to evaluate moving into another avenue of building. I guess another question is.. How dose one come to get on the list to the right ?

Rick H.

rwheil@msn.com

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