Hi All,

Not very often I have to post regarding epoxying issues but this one has really annoyed me to the max. I did an 11" epoxy job on the butt section of the blank and after laying down a base wrap and 1 coat of CP. After applying the epoxy I got the usual bubbles but this time they all rather small and easy to remove after hitting them with some heat. The issue I was experienced is that the bubbles would reappear in exact the same spots and no matter how many times I hit them with heat they would reappear. Very frustrating

Could it be that the CP trapped air between the blank and CP that caused this. Im looking for ways to minimize this.

Any heap or advice is appreciated.

Hi Bill,
What sort of thread are you using? Maybe more than one coat of cp is required to displace the air in the thread. Never had that issue. I'm using Madeira with at least three coats of cp and I get a few small bubbles that disappear with a bit of heat and don't return.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

Hi Col,

Im using fishhawk A thread if that helps.

What finish? I have had the same issue, but with Prowrap metallics.

Kevin Knox
ANGLER'S ENVY CUSTOM RODS
QUEEN ANNE, MD 21657
#_#_#_#_#
www.anglersenvy.com

Hi Kev,

Im using TM lite. I think it may have some to do with using Chromseal CP. Never had this issue when using Carson CP with any fishhawk or prowrap. Only used chromoseal CP because I ran out of Carsons. Might even be becuase I didnt use enough CP.

I use chromaseal too and never had this problem either. but i always apply 2 or 3 coats, making sure it really saturates the threads and then wicking off the excess, and leaving it dry over night before appling finish. Maybe it was because you only applied 1 coat? plus if you constantly apply to much heat to the wraps it will cause a lot of bubbles to come to the surface, and if you keep hitting the same spots it will just keep happening. Might be better to exhale through a straw to get them out.

Thanks Stev,

Might have to try putting extra coats next..

Cheers

I always put a wet coat on while turning Seems to work Then as I see the thread soak it up put another before completely dry and extra alongside the guide feet

Bill - willierods.com

To much heat will also cause bubbles!

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

On LONG wraps, always use the slowest curing, thinnest epoxy you can find for the 1st coat and make sure to apply that coat SUPER thin. Plan on applying 2 more coats later, the 1st thin coat will not only allow air to disperse, but it will allow it to disperse MUCH easier than a thicker coat will. Never apply heat either, let it do it's thing. If you still have bubbles after using a thin slow curing finish and applying it thinly, ....well.....you wont!

DR

Thanks lad. I will definetly employ some of those tips. I'll try applying a thing coat.

Duane,
Lots of different ways to finish a rod.
I typically never use CP because I don't like the look that you get with CP.
I generally use one coat of thick flex coat and the rods come out looking perfect.
I do mix and apply the finish very quickly at about 100-200 rpm. I also apply the newly mixed finish on the longest wraps first. When applying, I never worry about bubble, I worry about just getting enough finish on the rod for a perfect even finish. I also don't worry if I have applied too much finish.

I do worry if I haven't applied enough finish.

After I have coated all of the wraps and guides, I go back to the butt of the rod with the rod turning more slowly and apply heat to thin and even the finish in any areas that need it. On newly mixed finish, a bit of heat will thin the finish to the viscosity of water and allow any excess to drip off of the rod.

I generally take about 3 minutes to apply finish on the full length of the wraps and guides and another 3 or 4 minutes to go over each and every section of the rod to be sure that every wrap is perfectly covered with no bubbles or other unevenness in the finish.

A thousand ways to apply finish to have it come out perfect.

There are 10,000 ways to apply finish to have it come out less than perfect.

Choose a method that you like and gives you the results that you like and stick with it.

Good luck
Roger

Roger, can i ask what do you mean by you don't like the look you get with cp? and what cp did you use to put you off using it? i don't use cp on guide wraps i prefer a thin coat of finish. I always use cp on butt wraps and weaves, and if i use cp on ncp thread it gives the thread a brighter appearence than just finish alone.

Steve,
If I use CP, I get a fairly flat bright color appearance to the non NCP standard nylon thread.
If I don't use CP, I get a darker color from the thread and the thread becomes semi transparent which is the look that I prefer.
The CP that I use works exactly as advertised and does have all of the advantages that have been listed by many folks in other listings.
If a client requests that look that one gets with CP, then of course I will use it and the results will be just fine.

Just generally speaking, I would rather have the semi transparent look to the thread that I get by using non NCP standard nylon thread and no CP.

Take care
Roger

Ok, thank you. i was just curious. to each his own as they say. I also like like the translucent effect without cp on the darker colour threads, and have done a few rods that way.

Roger,

I didn't see where you had a dog in this fight before my post-why call me out? Maybe you should have helped the guy instead, rather than waiting on my responce then going in the opposite direction to make things even more confusing for the guy that needs the help.

My responce was MY WAY of making it work, and work every time, for ME.

Everyone here that makes a post here on the RB is merely voicing their opinion in one of those 1,000-10,000 ways.

DR

Thank you all for your great posts. I will certainly be putting all the great tips into the memory bank.

Cheers