I have a customer looking for a set of rods for inland lake walleye trolling. Lures will be small crankbaits and bottom bouncers with worms trolled on 10lb mono. He is looking for 2 7'6" rods and 2 6'6" rods. I was thinking about the MHX CB903 and MHX CB783. Has anyone used these blanks for that type of application?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/03/2012 11:40AM by Mitch Leppelmeier.

I haven't, and since I can't comment on all the possible blanks that would no doubt make good models for this type fishing, I hesitate to put this out there - I don't want to be seen as playing favorites, but the Seeker CBS705 is absolutely made for this exact type of fishing. Only go to the 706 if you need more power, but for small baits and fish under about 5 or so pounds, this thing is outstanding.

Trouble is, it's a 7 footer and you surely wouldn't want to trim any from the tip, and not more than an inch or two from the butt. A short extension would be fine, however.

..............

Mitch,
I just cross checked the specs on these rods to the specs of rods that I have built for this purpose.

Generally speaking these will be very good choice - as long as you are not pulling a bunch of weight.

But, if you are pulling a heavy bottom bouncer in the 1-2 oz weight, as can be the case with walleye fishermen, you should size up accordingly.

In other words, the best rod that is used to pull small crank baits without added weights should be using a much softer and lighter action rod, than the rod that will be used to pull the same crank bait when there is a 2- or 3 bottom bouncer in front of it.

Have a chat with your client, and have him give you a detailed picture of his trolling setup, starting from the reel to the final hook.
What, if any weight is used, or what if any extra drag is being used like a planer board or anything of that sort. Remember, any extra weight and or drag in the system past the tip of the rod will require a heavier action rod to pull the load.

For example - when I am fishing with crankbaits with no added weight, I will typically use a rod that is long and soft that would have a typical medium light power rating.

But, if I am fishing a bottom bouncer with a 2-3 oz weight, I will be fishing a shorter rod - generally no longer than 7 feet, and often 6 1/2 feet in a medium or a medium heavy action.

Or, if I am running lead core line to get the small crank down, I will typically be using a 6 1/2 foot rod in a medium to medium heavy blank rod power.


Simply put, light loads, light rods.
Heavy loads, heavier action rods.

When building any of these trolling rods, that are largely intended for rod holder use, I will typically use EVA for handle material. I will always build them up with a casting rod handle and if allowed, will always build them up with a spiral wrapped configuration.
Also, because of their life in rod holders, I tend to go with fairly long handles. The longer handles are simply more convenient to use in the typical rod holder.

No need for anything other than EVA for a handle, since the fish hook themselves when trolling and much of the rods life will be spent in the rod holder on the boat. No need to do any particular rod balancing either for the same reasons. Of course, use standard well executed rod design and build, by using correct components, but rod balance is really not part of the equation for these rods.

Good luck
REW

I made two 7'6" walleye trolling rods for use on Tablerock Lake in the Ozarks. I used the L902-MHX , Light Saltwater 7'6" 1pc. 8-15lb B0.535 T5.5. I use them for long line trolling with 10# braid and for bottom bouncing and Lindy rigging with weights from 1/4 ounce to 2 ounces.

I have been very satisfied with the rod performance.

Hope that helps.