I forgot to rotate my rod after applying first coat of CP. Got busy with the kids. now I have a couple of sags that are white and some small bubbles. CP is chromaseal. Is there any way to repair this, and if I have to re-wrap how do I get the CP cleaned off the blank. This happened to two blanks with open wraps and hand written names so any suggestions on repair would be greatly appreciated.

I had something like that happen once when i was using cp, cant remember if it was chroma seal or Diamondite? Had the rod in my dryer and we had a power cut that day, had a couple of sags but managed to remove them with a sharp razor blade, dont rub it, youll make it worse. It was hardly noticeable when i applied the finish. Hope this might of helped.

Forgot to add, you can easily remove the cp from the blank using a piece of cloth soaked with a little acetone or thinners.

The real problem is that you guys are applying WAY TOO MUCH CP.

And forgetting to turn the dryer on

Works well to apply while the rod is turning just like finish

Bill - willierods.com

Hmmm. Here's my process for applying CP, when I use it:

Stir or mix thoroughly (depends on which type you are using)
Load the brush and apply to the wraps, ensuring that all wrap areas are flooded and there may be some excess on the wraps.
Allow to soak in (I usually move on and do one or 2 more wraps while this happens)
Wipe the brush off and go back and remove the excess. You shouldn't have pools of CP sitting on the wrap.
Allow to cure overnight before applying finish.

No need to turn or put in a dryer. Since the CP is used to preserve color, any more than is needed to soak the wrap is not serving any purpose. This process works for me and usually I am good with using one coat using this method. Your mileage may vary.

Terry

Another thing I found out - if you use those crappy throw away brushes you are wasting your time. Go buy a real brush, 1/2" wide & flat, thin the bristles. I applied CP with those waste brushes a few weeks ago, it took me 10 times longer and I couldn't wick it off, there were dry spots. It's no wnder people have so many issues with CP and epoxy using those brushes.

Got a message about what I consider a good brush: "One of the cheap-o ones from a craft shop, they often come in a package with like 12 othe rrushes for $8 - something like that. No need for anything fancy. I've been using the saqme brush set for 5 years, I clean them by leaving them in U40 Brush cleaner between uses"

Agree with Billy here. A decent flat brush will allow you to load or wick up the desired amount of CP. I think I paid $3 for a couple at the craft store and still have them. Most CP is alcohol soluble so I just soak in a shot glass with alcohol when I'm done. Works great.

Terry

I should add this only happened to me once when i first tried chroma seal or diamondite. I applied a heavy coat over a 6 layer weave to allow it to penetrate through the layers, and had to leave the rod unattended turning on my dryer, due to a powercut it stopped at some point and dried with some build up sags. I usually do a flood coat like terry said, let it absorb, then wick off. if i do another coat it is a thin one. i hate those crappy brushes to billy, i use flat sable brushes for cp and finish.

IMHO

I think and have found that while turning CP will coat the threads evenly I guess one can hand turn -- but why

Bill - willierods.com

It must take 20 minutes to apply CP to a rod with a wrap on the motor, instead of 2 minutes. I apply it with lengthwise strokes on a DEc WRap, on gude wrap underwraps I apply it on my Clemens lathe under power. Wide stiff brush get a lot on, wick it off back into teh container. GO back over everything and wick off as much as you cna, no bubbles or foam should be on the threads.

Do it the way it works for -- you

Bill - willierods.com

OK, so I know what to do next time, but how can I fix these little bubbles that formed on the bottom of the rod. The sags actually cleared up through out the day, but these little bubbles are going to be noticeable. I have in the past tried to cut them when they formed in the channels of the top layer of a tiger and it seemed to make it worse. If i got after them with some fine sand paper, would the scuff marks show. I normally apply the CP and rotate every few minutes for about 45 min or until it clears up. I have never been able to get a thin coat, but I will try a brush like Billy mentioned.

There is a post and follow up by Neil Sanft form about 4-6 weeks ago posted on this forum. Search it. Youre not going to be able to do anything except make a mess.

Thanks Billy. That is kind of what I figured. Damn Kids! I'm gonna try and salvage it, but if it looks to bad I will strip and just do a under wrap before doing the deco wrap. Bad thing is the bubbles formed right where I wrote the name. I don't see how I missed that post, I try and check in every day, but I've been working long hours. So does alcohol do well to remove the CP.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/20/2012 08:36PM by Brandon Gay.

Brandon, follow these steps when you next do a tiger wrap to completely eliminate micro bubbles from forming in the channels; i use flexcoat cp thinned 50% with distilled water. by thinning it you greatly reduce those frothy bubbles from forming. lower your loaded brush so it just touches the surface and at the same time turn your rod with your other hand until you completely saturate your tiger wrap. Then dry your brush off and hold it on to the wrap again while turning it by hand until youve removed all the excess cp. when you apply your finish, put a thick coat on, then remove most of it until you are left with just a thin coat just deep enough to fill those channels which will make it easier to get all the bubbles out when you apply heat from an alcohol lamp. This is the procedure i use especially if i use regular thread and i never get any micro bubbles in my tiger wraps.