Okay, the victim is labeled as a 5 weight. If asked I would have said it was close and a moderate action blank. It has a rather "whippy" tip. I just did a quick CCS test.

I required 56 pennies to deflect it 1/3rd. Action angle was hard to read exactly. Call it 57 degrees. So DBI=7.15/57, correct?

I am a beginner so unlikely to cast into the backing. I am looking to cast medium size popping bugs for freshwater fish. What line weight should I buy? Should I consider one of the 6 weight lines that is claimed to be a 1/2 line weight heavier than normal (GPX)?

Also, is it necessary to have a completed rod in order to get meaingful info from a CCS test? I ask because I have a six weight that seems far more powerful. It might test out closer to an 8 weight and at that point I'd need a different reel seat. I'd rather not have to cut one off and make that change after I built the rod.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Before anyone can make any recommendations, you need to provide your casting/fishing range. Physical fly line weight changes as you move more or less of it beyond the rod tip.

If you install the straight line pointer on the rod tip per the CCS instructions, AA should be easy to read.

The only difference between a naked blank and a finished rod would be reflected in the weight of the guides which will tend to reduce ERN (power) a tad. AA will be unchanged.

.............

Lets call casting distance 40 to 50 feet. I trust that will improve with practice and once I know what a double haul is.

The tip was bouncing around a little and I had less than ideal measuring circumstances. Still I think I am close enough. I could see the rod being called a slow action. I'm comfortable with the power rating but the AA could be off a couple of degrees.

Can you comment on CCS'ing a raw blank? Perhaps a ballpark adjustment to make?

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Okay, if you're intending to start with a casting range of 40 to 50 feet, you'll want to start with about a 7-weight line to easily load the rod at that distance. As you progress and if you want to fish at longer ranges (you may or may not - fishing at more than 50 feet may not be necessary and can introduce other issues), I'd move to a 6-weight line which I think will be the best all around line for that blank from 25 to 75 feet. But, if you're just starting out, I'd go with a 7.

I don't like these lines that aren't labeled per the AFTMA standards. Rods were never rated by AFTMA, but lines were. Those numbers are supposed to actually mean something. When they don't adhere to the standards, you're completely in the dark.

The rod's action is 57 degrees. That's all, Not slow, not fast, Just 57. The lower AA figure indicates that it may not load easily at short distances with 5 or 6-weight lines. To use those, particularly a 5-weight, will require that you keep a good deal of it beyond the tip. In the meantime, put a 7 on it and have fun. Just don't expect to cast 80 or 100 feet.

...................

You might want to re-check your ERN measurements. There aren't many 5wt labelled blanks that measure out to ERN=7.15 (unless it's a Dan Craft FT).
Make sure the blank is level before adding weight and measure the actual length of the rod to determine 1/3 deflection.
If AA is 57 it is slowER than the average factory 5wt rod and is much slower than Sage XP for reference.

WIW I did try casting it with two different lines. One was a WF5F that I just bought. It did okay with a small streamer but once I put on a larger popping bug and thw wind kicked up I had trouble turning over the bug and keeping my back casts high. The other line was an old level line I removed off a "package deal 8 weight" I had. So no idea what it really was other than cheap. It performed okay but as I tried to obtain greater and greater casting distances it kinda fell apart. likely I was pushing the blank to its limit but it didn't strike me as that was what was happening. again you have to factor in my total lack of experience.

Rick, tomorrow I will try to measure and post what the so called 6 weight CCS'es at. I'm a little surprised the 5 weight tested as strong as it did as the 6 weight is a LOT more rod. It wouldn't surprise my if it tested as a nine weight) Darn thing is a pool cue with only the slightest wiggle to the tip. The labeled 9 weight is a monster.....LOL!. And I thought I was going to teach myself saltwater flyfishing)

BTW these are not current production blanks.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

I'm thinking you may have the old "broomstick" style blanks which are extremely stiff and have heavy tips.
I won't name the mfg, but I had one that was labelled as a 5wt but wouldn't flex with 50 feet of line aerialized.
They are challenging to cast and are really not sensitive. That would explain the "strange" numbers.
It might make a good trolling rod.

Russell,

Your rod is a "5-weight" per the manufacturer's rating. It is correctly rated as far what they intended. As for what amount of 5-weight line it was designed to cast, that's based on the manufacturer's idea of what the rod was intended to do.

It's important to get off this idea that there is any such thing as a standard "5-weight" rod. Any rod can be labeled a "5-weight' and be correct. Any rod will cast any weight line at some distance. Try to keep in mind that the physical weight of a 5-weight line (or any line) is not the same at 30 feet as it is at 60 feet. Some respective length of both a 5 and 7-weight line weigh exactly the same.

For what you described above, a 7-weight line will be your best bet.

...............

I think I get the concept Tom. For me, I suppose it is about effective communication. It is one thing to say the blank is labeled as this weight. It is another to say the CCS numbers suggest it is this weight. I understand that the actual weight the blank casts is a function of how many feet of line is in the air. I know that saying the blank is, or tests at , X,Y, or Z weight is only saying that it is best suited to a certain line at a certain distance.

What I don't know off the top of my head is how many feet of X weight line equals how many feet of Z weight line. I also assumed that 20 feet was a short cast, 40-60 feet a normal cast, and over 70 feet was something that required advanced technique/skill.....all assuming a line to blank match that would perform well in the 20 to 60 foot range well.

Main point in all of this for me is.....if I'm a beginner, and casting lures large and bulky realitive to weight class, and using a line two weights under the optimum for the distances I am casting, it is understandable why I'm having some troubles.

I will take your sage advice and try a WF7F. Once I can regularly place the fly where I want at moderate distances then I can move down one weight class, if I so desire, and see if that improves my ability to cast a longer distance.

I'm looking forward to testing the other blanks. IMHO they are high quality. I wouldn't go as far as to label them trolling blanks but they do feel more like a spin/jig than any fly rod I have felt.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

The CCS numbers do not proclaim it as being any "weight." ERN is power, not line weight.

.............

I measured the 6 weight. This one I'm less surprised by. I needed 68 pennies. So I come up with DBI=8.63/72. This would seem to suggest it is a fast action and an eight weight line would be ideal. Is that about right?

Thanks in advance.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Not quite. An 8-weight line would only be ideal if you're casting shorter distances. It's correctly rated by the maker as a 6-weight insofar as they most likely intended it to be used at longer ranges. Remember, physical line weight changes as you put more or less of it beyond the tip.

Also, according to the CCS, it's not a fast action rod. It's a 72 degree rod. The whole purpose of the AA reading is to do away with subjective terms such as "fast, moderate and slow."

.............

Tom can I assume the weight of a fly line follows a linear pattern per length? For example, If 30 feet of a 6 weight line averages 160 grains can I say 160/30 = 5.33 grains per foot therefore 39.4 feet of it weights 210 grains (which is equal to 30 feet of eight weight line)? Somehow I was under the impression that most of the weight of the line was in the first 30-40 feet and after that the "running portion" of the line added little extra weight......or at least it wasn't a linear progression.

I'm sure I'm not wording this is a technically incorrect manner but I think you can get where I am going.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

It's not a linear progression. Most of the weight is in the first 30 feet (although there are some specialty tapers where this isn't quite true any more) but you're still adding weight as you put more than 30 past the tip. The running line doesn't weigh as much, but it's not immaterial.

.............

Russell,
Welcome to the world of fly casting and fishing.
Before you get too frustrated,there are no easy answers.
All answers are dictated by the communication between you and the rod.
Your casting tempo and capabilities are personally yours.
I've been learning to cast for 30+ years and have picked-up more in the last ten then the previous 20.
Watch and listen and don't stop.
Cast as many different rods as you can get your hands on.
Expo's are a wonderful place to cast 20 or more different rods in one day.
Each rod has it's own desires.
Some like a lot of carry, while others wilt. Some shoot line well and others demand hauling.
Feel where the "sweet spot" is for each rod and don't get upset about having trouble finding it.
When you hit the spot the rod will tell you you "got it all" and leave you wishing you'd stripped another 20 feet of line.
Spend time practicing casting until it comes without thought.
Utilize a friend to watch your rod and line from the side so he can explain what's happening. Fix problems as they're encountered to prevent memorizing bad habits.
Fishing will be troublesome until casting becomes natural.
Too many variables when you add the pressure of fishing.
Fishing will improve as casting abilities improve.
Sorry for the preaching but the frustration will pass if given time.

Eugene Moore

I'm trying Eugene, hence all them dumb questions. Efforts were a little hampered by buying some older blanks with nothing to go on. CCS has given me some direction and I did purchase a line today (GPX WF6F for the so called 5 weight) and practice a little. Wind was blowing pretty hard. My casts weren't bad but I had trouble getting the bug to turn over. Finally it sunk in that a 6X leader wasn't the right choice for a popping bug with a #4 hook.

I suppose I need to break down and buy a good book/DVD. Care to recommend one?

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Russell,
The best book I've read was the " Essence of Flycasting " by Mel Krieger.
Very good descriptions and photography on casting.
Even has some of the more advanced techniques and a lot of practical tips.
Start short. Cast 30 foot max. Concentrate on getting a good clean loop. NO fly.
Short tapered leader, no tippett.
Your casting ability will increase in 10 to 15 foot increments. Concentrate on good clean loops with turnover above the ground.
High backcast, crisp stop. High forward cast, crisp stop. Let the energy in the line run down the loop.
Casting sessions about half an hour.
More short sessions allow time to think about what you are feeling.
Please keep fishing to a minimum. I know this is the reason but it brings more things to the table and takes your mind off casting.
Once you feel comfortable you can hit that 45 footer with every stroke go after some blue-gill for sport.
Just get the rythmn and feel the rod load at both ends of the cast. If you need a challenge throw a lounge cushion out for target practice.

Good luck
Gene