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Guide Repair
Posted by:
Jim Scott
(---.hfc.comcastbusiness.net)
Date: February 24, 2012 09:54AM
I was just given a rod to repair a broken guide and new tip top. Rod is a G Loomis IMX mbr 783c. First off does anybody know what brand the guides are? I have an emial into G Loomis but thought I would ask here also.
Second, i have only been asked to repair the broken and missing guides, some of the other guides show a little surface rust. Does anyone have a secret to removing the surface rust without harming the blank for thread finish. I want to clean the rod up for him so he will get his friends to bring rods for repair also. I assume soap and water will bring the cork back unless someone has a better idea. Thanks for the input. My first repair for someone else, i can't wait. J Scott Englewood, Fl Re: Guide Repair
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: February 24, 2012 10:15AM
J,
To clean the cork handle, go to the hardware or grocery store and buy a spray bottle of "Simple Green" Spray the handle down well with simple green and then use a tooth brush to scrub the handle. Repeat as needed, rinsing between cleanings. A few minutes and the cork will be sparkling clean. To remove the rust on the guides, go to the hardware store and pick up a bottle of "rusty gel" Brush the gel on the guides and let sit for an hour or so. [www.oreillyauto.com] Then, use the tooth brush to scrub the guides while under running water. Repeat as needed until the rust is gone. Many of the Loomis IMX rods used Pac Bay guides. Check with your supplier for a match on the guides. Often, on an older rod, I will take the opportunity to chat with the client and see if we just can't replace all of the guides so that you can have a nice matching set. It doesn't take long to remove the old guides and wrap on new guides. Take care Roger Re: Guide Repair
Posted by:
Jim Scott
(---.hfc.comcastbusiness.net)
Date: February 24, 2012 10:35AM
Thanks Roger, Once i found out what the guides were i was going to suggest an upgrade to titanium frames so we wouldn't have the rust issue. Most of the guides on this rod show some finish fatigue and will need to be replace eventually. Its quite obvious that my buddy doesn't take great care of his equipment. I am still learning so i do this for free so it would be in his best interest to replace them all. J Scott Englewood, Fl Re: Guide Repair
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: February 24, 2012 11:10AM
make him pay -- maybe he will take care of his stuff then ???
But then that is less work for you Bill - willierods.com Re: Guide Repair
Posted by:
Jim Scott
(---.hfc.comcastbusiness.net)
Date: February 24, 2012 04:21PM
It worked. Talked him into replacing all guides. Original guides were Fuji Alconite. He was ok with the Sic upgrade over Alconite. I also talked him into Titanium, now the question. Is the fuji titanium plated an option. The guide train jumps in 30dollar increments from Alconite to Sic Ti plated to Sic Titanium Frame. We are gulf of mexico coastal and this willl be a Redfish rod. What are the opinions on Ti Plated vs Ti Frame in salt environment.
Any thoughts are welcome. J Scott Englewood, Fl Re: Guide Repair
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: February 24, 2012 07:15PM
Titanium won't rust.
No need for the plated option, unless the client wants to spend more money. But, actually, there is nothing wrong at all with the Alconite guides. If, after each use he insured that the rod was rinsed off and dry, there would be no issue with rusting. Just because it is more expensive, does not make the guide more functional. Take care Roger Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/24/2012 07:16PM by roger wilson. Re: Guide Repair
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: February 24, 2012 07:16PM
Insted of Fuji Ti guides look at the American tackle Ti guides Bill - willierods.com Re: Guide Repair
Posted by:
Sean Cheaney
(---.235.189.72.cfl.res.rr.com)
Date: February 24, 2012 11:37PM
I'm going to echo what Bill just said. Take a long hard look at TITAN A Frame guides from American Tackle.
Titanium plated frame is less expensive because underneath its still a steel guide. The titanium frames are what you want to simply never worry about rust/corrosion problems. Part number NIA. If you are going to reguide the rod, might as well change the guide transition for better performance as well, and switch the tip guides to NIRLF fly guides. Pair it with a matching lite top and that rod will feel like a whole different world to him. Re: Guide Repair
Posted by:
Jim Scott
(---.tampfl.dsl-w.verizon.net)
Date: February 25, 2012 12:11AM
Thanks for responses.
Roger. The guides on the rod are alconite FUJI, and they are rusted. This guy does not rinse. The ti plated was cheaper than the Ti frame. i was wondering if the plated gave enough corrosion resistance without going total Ti? Sean. Blank finish is good, I don't want to move the guides and require a refinish on the blank. I am still new and don't have the confidence to strip a Loomis yet. Glad to see i am not the only one that couldn't make it to High Point. J Scott Englewood, Fl Re: Guide Repair
Posted by:
Russell Brunt
(---.mia.bellsouth.net)
Date: February 25, 2012 03:52AM
Don't use plated guides. Pick what Sean advised. Shouldn't be any finish to speak of on a loomis. If I bought my kid a loomis, and the spoiled brat couldn't appreciate it enough to bother to rinse it off, I need not tell y'all where the rod would end up (some place the sun don't shine).
Big word of advice. Friends and family either get work for free, or they pay double. Everything you do for them will be expected to carry a lifetime replacement at your cost. Russ in Hollywood, FL. Re: Guide Repair
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: February 25, 2012 07:18AM
i was not talkin the plated Ti Guides You should ge solid ti frames Bill - willierods.com Re: Guide Repair
Posted by:
Jim Scott
(---.tampfl.dsl-w.verizon.net)
Date: February 25, 2012 08:58AM
Thanks for the advice all.
I will let hiim know the price of the full Ti frame guides and see where he wants to go from there. Russ, your absolutly correct about the blank being bare. I am concerned that the guide feet have stained or marked the blank and would show up if i moved the guides. I plan on putting them right back where the came off. I Went right to Fuji because those are the guides on the rod now, just making them new or upgrading to Ti. I will run the cost of the AT Titans and offer those as well. Bill, so you say either stainless or Ti, no reason to go in the middle. I agree, go big or go home. J Scott Englewood, Fl Re: Guide Repair
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: February 25, 2012 10:35AM
Jim,
After you strip the blank, just do a light wet sand of the entire blank and that will remove any marks on the blank. Take care Roger Re: Guide Repair
Posted by:
Owen Spalding
(---.dsl.vic.optusnet.com.au)
Date: February 25, 2012 08:28PM
why replace a guide that has been bent,rusted, twisted or damaged with a "new" identical guide which is only going to do the same and get the same punishment down the track.? I always talk the angler into upgrading guides if they break, why do it again and again down the track... Re: Guide Repair
Posted by:
Philip Marz
(173.169.192.---)
Date: March 04, 2012 07:24PM
I realize this is dated but I'll give my 2 cents anyway. As others have suggested, don't use TI plate, they're cheap and a waste of money. After two seasons or so you'll see signs of corrosion. If your friend likes his rod well enough to re-guide it, go with solid titanium and be done with it. Every time he throws a lure he'll notice his new guide job and won't be happy after a couple years if he goes with a lessor quality. Phil Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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