Just curious, What is the best way to get rod level on the rod lathe before applying epoxy, cause when I get the butt end level then the part towards the tip is not level and when I get the tip part level then the butt part is not, lol! so I settled for the butt end to be level, is that good enough or should I still try to get the whole rod level?

The best you can do is get the centerline of the rod level.

..............

Ive never had an issue with epoxy and my rods not being level on the wrapper, its more important to have it spinning till it is at least in the tacky stage of the process or you may end up with more epoxy on one side than the other

Strong wraps, calm seas
Derek

I just made it to where my dryer motor chuck is level with my stands and I try to make sure the rod doesn't have any bow in it while spinning. When it spins true (no wobble) it makes it much easier to apply the finish. I used to just use one stand until I realized that the rod was wobbling, making it hard to evenly apply finish by holding the brush steady.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

Lorenzo,
I don't understand why you can't have your entire rod level.
I assume that you have height adjustable rod stands don't you.

If so, just start from the dryer end of the rod, and adjust the height of each rod support as you go down the length of the rod.

If you don't have adjustable rod stands, make or purchase some stands that are adjustable.

If you look in the photo section, you can find lots of different ideas for rod stands.

This is typical of the rod stands that I use when drying. They are made of aluminum with beams out from the vertical arm. A nice feature of this type rod rest, is that when wrapping, you can have your hand under the rod support.
The base is made from a piece of cutting board. The rollers are patio screen door rollers with an O ring in the groove of the roller.

[www.rodbuilding.org]



Roger



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/25/2012 01:17PM by roger wilson.

Lorenzo,
A few other ideas for rod supports:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Roger

Thanks, I have a Pac Bay rod lathe, and when I level the rod I use a small leveler, I guess when the bubble is just a little off, I try to get just right in the middle of the two markings in the level, I have it pretty level now, the epoxy is leveling off really good. Have a good one!

I believe that using a level on the blank is not the way to go. Use a level to get the lathe bed level, and then use a height gage of some kind to make sure that the centerline of the rod is the same height from the lathe bed the entire length of the rod. you can make a height gage with a piece of wood and a piece of wire, bend the wire until it is lined up with the centerline of the blank at the chuck and just move it along the lathe bed and adjust the supports so that the centerline of the rod lines up with your gage.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Couple pcs of Scrap wood, two pcs 1/4" All thread with nuts and a pcs of Alum angle easy to build and adjust



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/25/2012 04:25PM by Barry Thomas Sr.

?, what is the center line of the rod, or where is it? just curious.

Its the center of any diameter of the rod from tip to butt

Strong wraps, calm seas
Derek

I use a line level but if you want to split hairs, the blank is tapered so level isnt level....actually. Center line would be a line from the center of the tip section to the center of the butt section...actually your guides are on a centerline unless spiral wrapped that is!

Another tip for a smooth epoxy finish is to use a foam brush from your local home improvement store. I use them on my final applications and the rods always come out smooth as glass

Strong wraps, calm seas
Derek

This came with my Clemens lathe,seems to work fine. looks eay to make


[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.rodbuilding.org]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/25/2012 04:21PM by Barry Thomas Sr.

Until now ,and thinking about Jims statement,I had never considered that you cant actually level a rod.If you level on top the bottom will be off and if you level the bottom,top will be off.I guess Toms comment,of centerline is best you can do,is in fact,the best you can do as that will split the difference in how much it is off from o to 180.Am I in left field or have I learned something?

When I am first setting up the blank to start a wrap I level the blank along the centreline of the blank using a laser level . As i have an Alps wrapper (Same or very similar to Pac Bay) so adjusting the blank presents no problems & a by product of doing this was the blank no longer dropped out of the chuck when being used .

Regards Baz

Bundeena NSW

Thanks, I get the picture, have a good one!

Barry,
Perfect.
Roger

I have no problem with finish It is always level and I do the top blank level
two rests doing the first section then doing the tip section

If after the tip is done and the butt goes out I do the butt again and then hold it true with my third wheel while doing the tip

Works

Bill - willierods.com

Bruce Kemp Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Until now ,and thinking about Jims statement,I had
> never considered that you cant actually level a
> rod.If you level on top the bottom will be off and
> if you level the bottom,top will be off.I guess
> Toms comment,of centerline is best you can do,is
> in fact,the best you can do as that will split the
> difference in how much it is off from o to 180.Am
> I in left field or have I learned something?

You must have learned something because your post is correct!!