is fuji alconite concept guides ok in saltwater? will the frame tarish? it is going on a inshore puppy drum trout rod.

Fuji Alconite are what I consider to be a "good" inshore guide. They WILL corrode if not rinsed properly after each trip. IF you will do that, they will last a VERY long time.

I use Fuji Alconites on almost all of my inshore spinning rods. I've never had a problem with them.

Are we talking the frames?? The stainless black can over time rust . I use Titanium Alconites so never worry about corrosion!

Look at it this way. Only recently was a titanium frame an option. Sic is the only grade up from alconite. Until recently Fuji was the undisputed best (and may still be).

So basically you are asking if the second best possible ring material in the best frame material (until recently) from the best company.....is just "okay"?????

I'd say it is a whole lot better than okay. In fact it can only be improved by considering titanium (okay I think 316 is an improvment too) and Sic. Only you can decide if the big difference in cost is money well spent.

All my salt water spinners with single foot guides are alconites in black frames. When I need a double foot guide I'm using virtus lites but they do need more prep.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Hi,

Yes, the Alconites are excellent guides as many other brands. Will they rust? You bet your life they will IF YOU DO NOT TAKE CARE OF THEM!!! I have seen excellent guides rust in less than a season. WHY??? BECAUSE THE OWNER OF THE ROD DOES NOT TAKE PROPER CARE OF THEM. Throws them wet into the boat cabin till the next trip. RUST, RUST and more rust will be generated.

So what is the proper care at the end of a fishing trip/day? I have rods that the guides after many years of use still look brand new. At the dock if there is fresh water I rinse the rods off and shake off the excess water. When I get home the reels come off the rods to be washed in the kitchen sink. The rods come up to the shower with me and get washed with soap and water. After rinsing them off they get dried off. Be sure to do a good job of drying especially around the guides. Then I stand them up in a dry warm area of the house or out in the sun to make sure they are really dry.

NO RUST!!!

Capt Neil Faulkner

Does anyone have saltwater experience with the ALPS (SS316) guides? Thoughts?

George Forster
Fort Collins, CO

I haved used the Alps SS316 for saltwater fly rods. The only one I have had a problem with was the PVD TiCH coated ones. I later learned this particular coating was not recommended for salt. They are great in the TC or polished SS316.

Capt Neil just convinced me to never use anything but Titanium on a saltwater rod!

As we've discussed before, stainless "corrodes", it doesn't "rust". It will pit, chalk or flake depending on what attacks it but it can't oxidize iron (orange) because the nickle has all the steel bound up at a molecular level. Orange is an indication that, at some point, iron was introduced to the surface and microscopic particles remain. They oxidize, and turn orange. Usually, the foot grinding technique is to blame when a metal file, carbon grinder or a steel wool "touch-up" introduces trace amounts of iron to the surface. You can pretty much surmise this is the case by looking back at this thread. Bob Riggins uses them all the time and has never had a problem. Capt Neil's will "rust". Gamble's last a VERY long time and then show signs of "corrosion" (orange, chalk?). Russell uses black frame Alconites with no problem. How else can you explain such varied results from the same material?

How well does the titanium frame itself hold up, corrosion aside. The one rod I built with ti guides(I think they were amtaks) have bent easily and a couple broke. Maybe they are better now than they were a few years ago.

Good morning,

Titanium is a wonderful material and I would love to be able to install them on my rods, but at what cost?

In my post I was trying to bring out the fact that if you maintain your rod/guides properly the rod/guides will last a long time.

Capt Neil Faulkner

A full Titanium Alloy (not the plated stuff) is the BEST solution for saltwater IMO. I don't have any issue with Fuji Stainless myself, but I rinse and wash after each trip AND apply carnuaba wax every few months. Stainless is NOT the best solution, but it will work just fine with proper care AND it is a good budget alternative to more expensive frames.

The Fuji Titanium Alloy is very strong, very light and a great product. Although it probably isn't the best choice for everyone ... budget, care, tenure, etc. all come into play and should be considered.

There probably isn't an individual on this board that wouldn't take a set of Fuji Titanium Alloy frames over Fuji Stainess Steel frames if they were both being given away ... winner's choice of material. It is just that simple.

Some understand what passivation means and accomplishes. I have always tried to avoid dressing guide feet if possible. D thread helps. Black thread on black frames helps. I shudder when I hear guys talk about dressing so much the guide foot turns red.

Titanium corrodes too BTW.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

From a machine shop stand point titanium is one of the toughest materials to work with.

here are some pros and cons that I know of dor titanium frames

pro:
durability till bent
will not corrode
2 legged models are hard to bend

con
material cost
brittle after it is bent






I like AmTac guides and prefer titanium guides for saltwater and I have only seen 2 failures with their guides, one after a john boat was dropped on the rod (which I damn near killed my brother for) and a second was with colored eyes (the eyelet popped out after 4 years of use) which that line looks to have been discontinued. the rest of my 8 rods have not had a guide fail, but I do take care of my rods.

Strong wraps, calm seas
Derek

Capt Neil I sure wasn't trying to rag on somebody who takes care of their stuff. I could take lessons from you! Just making the point that if stainless turns orange for some and not for others there must be an explanation hidden somewhere in the building process. If we can isolate places where it happens and why, it should help everyone. My apologies.

Hi Jim,

I did not take your post as ragging, no apologies needed. Just the opposite I found it informative. You included specific info that I had not heard before. Thank you for that.

It just goes to show just how deep this craft can be taken. BUT then, we might not have time to go fishing, ha, ha!

Capt Neil Faulkner

another vote for Fuji Titaniums, yes they cost more but if you or your customer can swing it, there is nothing better in my opinion.

Tight Lines and Bull's-eyes,

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My vote is for AmTac titanium frames. I use a lot of those guides and have never had a problem.

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