How does everyone coat the entire rod with epoxy? I've seen heavy saltwater/offshore rods with epoxy from tip to forecheck (no blank exposed).

I'm using a pacbay power wrapper and am scratching my head on how to do this without the roller/supports getting in the way.

Anyone?

What kind of drying system is used?

There is really only one way to do this after the rod is wrapped I believe. I am assuming you are talking about rods similar to crowder (first one that came to mind) where its one coat that never really ends.

Support the rod under the reel seat/grip area and from the ring in the tip. If any one else knows how they actually do it, feel free, as I am using an educated guess here.

I hope you are not talking about guide wrap epoxy!! It is not appropriate for that purpose. Too soft and damageable, Perma Gloss or Lumi Seal are far better to coat the entire blank,

Phil....take a look at these. These look to be coated from tip to forecheck/grip. I don't use much permagloss, but the finish here doesn't look permaglossy?
[www.rodbuilding.org]

I saw a video of this being done once and it was basically the butt of the rod in the dryer motor chuck, then the tip top hung on a pin in a board so that the only support was the motor and tip. I personally wouldn't finish a rod like this as every little bump or scratch is going to show. Plus it adds gobs of weight to the rod and will slow it down.

Rufus
Port Saint Lucie, FL

Jess,
If you want to make a rod shiny, do not use finish epoxy. It will add way too much weight and change the rod's action.

Use something else.

Good luck
Roger

Jess, I see what your talking about, but really suspect it is not guide wrap epoxy. All the brands I'm familiar with stay way to soft to take any kind of scuffing scratching or especially rail damage. I also agree it does not look like Perma Gloss.

I use Perma-Gloss as it is not epoxy and it stays the time

Glenn McMurrian

I received a New Zealand built 30 to 50lb game rod as a gift that's finished this way, it's definitely normal rod wrap epoxy though it looks awful and I wouldn't finish a rod this way myself.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/20/2012 03:22AM by Charles Clayton.

I have two rods from a popular (and expensive) factory ,that a customer brought in to be "cleaned up". These things look like they've been run over by a lawnmower. Scratches up the whole length of the rods. I have little doubt that had those same rods been finished with a harder, more durable finish (perma gloss, lumi seal, autoclear, etc) that they would be in much better condition right now.

Rufus
Port Saint Lucie, FL

All of my offshore rods are coated tip to grip. I do this to protect the blank from dings, etc. I equate it to buying a new pair of dress shoes and putting a coat of polish on them to protect them.

There are 2 ways to do this. If the rod is stiffer, put a rod support just behind the tip top and coat the whole rod.

Or

If the rod is flimsy at the tip, put the rod holder between two guides. Apply finish to all sections of the rod that are not supported, taking special care to stop the finish application at the ends of the wraps that are on either side of the support. Then, after it dries overnight, move the support away from the section that does not have finish, and apply to that section.

Kevin Knox
ANGLER'S ENVY CUSTOM RODS
QUEEN ANNE, MD 21657
#_#_#_#_#
www.anglersenvy.com

Maybe some mroe information could benefit....A heavy saltwater spinning rod came to me with a cracked BNLG size 40 stripepr guide. The insert fell out. It appears the rod has had some work done to it prior, since the first three guides don't match the last 4 guides (different rings but still FUJI). The whole rod is black, threads, overwraps, underwraps, etc. My guess is that the first "fixer" made the repairs to the first 3 guides, and coated the entire rod with finish, since there are no seams/gaps or visible blank sections. Knowing where this rod came from (sunny south FL), and the angler it came from (fishes hard with little maintenance), I'm not surprised that repair work is needed.

The finish does show some wear and tear, scratches, dings etc....

Without stripping the whole rod, for which I didn't see a need to do, I've replaced the stipper guide, and will scuff the blank and coat again with another coat of epoxy....somehow.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/20/2012 10:20AM by Jess Brindisi.

On an offshore rod an extra ounce of weight will not be noticed.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

I've coated many tuna rods that I've built at the customers request and use the same method Kevin describes in his post above. On those types of rods the extra weight of the epoxy isn't even noticable.

Lance

you may be able to rewrap the guide, epoxy the guide wrap enough coats to make it level with the rest of the finish. sand the rest of the rod then put a coat or two of permagloss over the entire length of the rod. This would put a shine on the whole rod and give you a harder more durable finish that will be a bit harder to scratch up without sacrificing the overall look of the rod. That is my plan for the ones I have. See how it works out.

Rufus
Port Saint Lucie, FL

I understand that Permagloss will not go over fresh thread finish ???

After rewrapping the new guides it should be better to put Permagloss several coats for the level -- then do the whole rod

But as said snuffing the rod and just coating it with a thin Level coat of finish

Then again do it right and strip the guides off
Strip the blank Clear with Permagloss Wrap the guides on
Then permagloss the thread wraps -- Now you have a hard finish that is better then thread finish on the whole rod

A lot easier with thread finish ???

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/20/2012 12:57PM by bill boettcher.

I should have clarified that Bill. I'm not in a rush and neither is the customer. Let the epoxy cure for a week or so, then permagloss it.

Rufus
Port Saint Lucie, FL

I have read elsewhere for other tasks that when using a polyureathane adhesive (or what ever is in the permagloss) you cannot use it after an epoxy, something about one not adhearing the other.

Do not forget that permagloss cannot be put over epoxy like Flexcoat or TM as it cures with heat and it gets hot so it will blister any epoxy if put over any cured epoxy like FlexCoat or TM

Glenn McMurrian

Rufus

Maybe it will work ???

Permagloss is HOT and may still after a week or even more may eat into the finish ???

Bill - willierods.com