Have done some searches and watched some you tube. So my question is doing an area above fore grip. Do you get more depth doing some colors let them dry. Then finish with others or all colors at same time. My first attempt so I'm all in. Thanks

I have found all colors are the same, although the possibilities are endless such as you can go with adding half a drop less and a tad more epoxy to make it translucent than others if desired. Test your thoughts/ideas on a scrap piece and find what you like. You'll be surprised with what you can come up with. I do all mine at the same time, the effect of "bleeding" into other colors I think makes the marbling.

I do them all at the same time however it would be interesting to see how your idea looks. Cook up some apple pie and go at it. I get depth from a few coats of finish over it .

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Apple pie in the oven. Maybe psycodelic---woodstock

"Bleeding" can create colors you simply don't want..............so I tend to disagree with the statement that "bleeding" makes the marbling better in any way. For instance...........if you have a wrap that's basically yellow and blue, and you do a marble with yellow and blue and end up with shades of green as a result. I consider that a failure unless you compensate with some green inlays in your guide wraps. Just my two cents.....

Hello All

I like to do both, I will put down my first marble let it dry then put a layer of epoxy let it dry then another marble let it dry then 1 or 2 layers of epoxy for extra depth.

Hope this helps.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

I have only tried marbling a couple of times, but I have learned that what you plan and what you get are generally not near the same. Which isn't to say the results are bad, but I have given up hope of maintaining control of the process. Also, I use Pearl Ex powdered pigments (thank you, Duane). When they are mixed with Threadmaster, even a single color will produce a marbled appearance, varying with the density of the pigment. If a mixture of these pigments and finish are added to a coat of finish on a turning blank, the biggest variable has to do with the amount of time that the blank's finish has been allowed to set. If it has just been applied, the action of the drying motor will swirl the colors throughout. Initially, I was hoping to achieve sort of a Jackson Pollock-like look, but the results were more of a psychedelic swirl. Additionally, these pigments do not blend (or, at least, they didn't blend for me) so that contrasting colors maintain their integrity. I applied separate mixtures of blue and bronze to the blank, and they remained as various shades of blue and bronze. They did not mix. As others have suggested, I think more depth can be obtained with additional layers, both clear and pigmented.
Slainte,
Hunter

From ghoulies and ghosties,
and long leggedy beasties,
and things that go bump in the night,
Good Lord deliver us!

Bill, good attitude, give your idea a try on some scrap and see what you come up with. I will add 1 thing I do. Some of the videos will show preparing the surface with a coat of white paint, it'll make the colors really pop. I do an underwarp with A thread, and seal it with CP before applying the marbling. It's often white, I'm doing a Minn. Vikings color job on an Inshore spinner right now, so I'll do Purple and Gold w/ some gold metallic over the white. But you don't have to stick with the white. Whatever color that works with the overall color scheme and will work as a base color is fine. I do marbled rods for Redfish by putting down a wrap of Gudebrod 257 Rust, and then doing some red, a lot of black and gold metallic over that. Makes a really spectacular looking marble job, or at least I think so.
The CP sealed underwrap comes in very handy if you don't like the results, as careful slicing with an X-Acto will allow you to strip the marble job right off the rod for a do-over.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/23/2012 11:09PM by Milt deReyna.