I am having the hardest time trying to determine whether to build my rods as light as possible or to add weight to the butt end of the rod for balance. I have built a few St Croix SCV rods with 15" handles and anywhere from 3/4 to 1 and 1/4 ounce weight at the butt for balance. These rods are 10' long with microguides and are heavy but fishes, IMO, very well. However, a few builders that I talked to don't balance their rods. What is your guys' take on this?

Depends on the application/technique. If it is a 'tip up' presentation then I weight the butt end, if it is a tip down I don't. Ask your self or your customer if you are building for someone else, how they will be fishing the rod.

Tight Lines and Bull's-eyes,

Get Bit Outdoors
407-542-7840
www.GetBitOutdoors.com
www.facebook.com/GetBitOutdoors

Lam,
It seem more and more builders and fisherman alike are concerned with making the lightest rod possible, the introduction of lightweight components and blanks have further perpetuated this trend. While there certainly is nothing wrong with building the lightest blank possible, I personally enjoy a well balanced rod. I like to add just enough weight to make the rod balance parallel in my hand, I feel that this will ultimately make my rod more versatile and comfortable for fishing a varying range of techniques. On long rods like your current build may take a lot of weight to balance however, if you have any completed already try taping some weight on the butt to see how it effects the balance.

Kind Regards,

Brook Oliva
Mud Hole Custom Tackle, Inc.
brook@mudhole.com
(866)-790-RODS

If you use monofilament line the stretch inherent in the line will nullify any amount of increased sensitivity in the rod blank due to its weight or construction. If you use circle hooks the importance of rod sensitivity is minimized. I guess then "rod balance" - whatever you feel that is - takes precedence. If you use J hooks and gelspun braid then I suppose the sensitivity of the rod blank comes first.

I've found on fly rods if I add an extra cork ring or two, and use a downlocking real seat, I can get most any length to balance. On spinning rods I use a reversed Fuji grip as a fore grip (sometimes called a Michigan grip) and hold the rod with the reel foot further back between my fingers. I haven't figured out how to balance a baitcaster other than crowd my hand up underneath the reel. But as always I don't put guides any closer to the tip section than absolutely necessary, and I've found one guide per foot (not the +1) works good enough for me. I don't like getting worn out after a full day on the water.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/19/2012 09:04PM by Tim Collins.

For me balance is more important. A rod that is balanced in your hand will feel lighter than a lighter (weight) rod that isn't balanced when you're actually out there fishing with it.

Rufus
Port Saint Lucie, FL

I find that balance points are subject to the fisherman's wants. I only build for personal use and my preferred balance point is right in front of the reel. In other words, I hold the rod and filled reel as if I'm fishing. Then I let go with all fingers and only leave my index for a crude fulcrum, in the exact position it was in while I was "fishing". My rods balance exactly at that point. I don't build any specific way, or add any balance weights.

Typical example. I built a St. Croix SC3 6'6" MF 2 piece (3S66MF-2) into a spinning rod. Built as dedicated 8 lb. mono running line with a Pflueger President 6735 with a 45 mm spool.

8" length split rear grip using eva and alum. winding checks,
graphite sz. 18 reel seat with 3 graphite arbors, installed downlocking no trimming of threads,
21/2" eva foregrip and alum. winding check. Snake guide for hook keep.
Guide train is all Fuji K stainless alconites. 25mm stripper, 12mm & 8mm reduction, four size 4 running guides to a 4.5 micro tip.

I'm in love with the way it fishes. Total weight of finished rod is 4.6 oz. It feels weightless until I start catching fish. Then, nothing is balanced anymore. lol