Hey guys,

I'm planning my first build, a 6'6 RX6 2 wt., (for small stream brookies :) ), and I've been debating between a urethane finish, probably Trondak u-40 Permagloss, or Flex Coat. All of the information I have about the urethane in from Tom's book. Aside from multiple coats, what are other advantages or disadvantages to using this? How thick a finish do I need for a light fly rod? Do I need to take the same time to level it as I would with an epoxy finish? (This is a important point for me.) Is it a shiny look like epoxy or more of a matte finish? I have a 25 year old fiberglass spinning rod that has been finished with something other than epoxy, and I like the look of those wraps. Thanks for your help, I've been lurking on the site for quite a while now, and found it really helpful.

Perma Gloss will be shiny if you apply enough coats. It will not cover the threads the same as epoxy unless you use many coats. It does not take any time to level as it is quite thin and cures quickly. If you like the sparse coverage look, go with the PG, it will also be a lighter build.

PG is shiny, harder yet more flexible than epoxy. But it gives more of a "eggshell" surface compared to epoxy.

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Every fly rod that is very light in line weight (i.e. your 2 weight) IMHO should have permagloss. its lighter, and you dont need to get finicky with it like you do with the flexcoat. Flexcoat also turns amber if you leave it in the sun. The uv resistance is horrible. I say permagloss.

PermaGloss for my fly rods. 3 coats give you plenty of protection, and allow the thread's texture to show through. It's kind of a similar look to rods that have been finished with varnish, not exaclyt shiny, minus the yellowing. PG is clear as gin. You can build it up to 6 or 7 coats to make it shinier and cover the thread's texture, but that adds weight, and is not necessary from a protection standpoint. Especially with a 2 wt., I would go totally minimalist-no color preserver, 3 coats PG, and single foot guides. Start you wrap as close as you can to the guide foot, like 3 or 4 revolutions, on the blank, then up the guide foot ramp.
Check out Tom's photos:
3 coats: [www.rodbuilding.org]
8 coats: [www.rodbuilding.org]

George Forster
Fort Collins, CO



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2012 12:42PM by George Forster.

Save time and use one coat dust free of a light thread finish Easy to use and Plenty Durable
And probable cheaper

Bill - willierods.com

Thanks for all the info, and the pictures. I definitely like the look of 3 coats of PG. I have a few
more questions now...

- Is application basically the same as expoxy, I apply it by brush, and then what steps to level is
properly?
- How does humidity, or a lack of it, affect the curing time? I heat with a airtight wood stove, so my
house is pretty dry this winter.
- bill boettcher: you mention dust, is this a big problem with PG?

Sorry if these questions are basic, thanks for your help. :)

Dust
You don't want any in any finish
PG dries fast and this is good if your area is not the cleanest place
Finish will take several hours do set up and dry
You may be better with PG or even Lumi Seal for that light a rod Lumi Seal is a little thicker so you will use less coats

Bill - willierods.com

I apply PG with a foam brush. Load the brush with PG, lower it to the wrap, rotate the wrap on revolution. Then, move the brush over, and repeat. Touch up any missed spots, and move on to the next wrap. Once the PG is on the wrap, do not mess with it, as it sets up very quickly. I make my own foam brushes by cutting narrow strips of foam, and taping them to a stick. When I'm finished with a coat, I throw away the piece of foam. PG depends on humidity to dry. So, drying times depend upon the humidity in your work area. More humid = faster drying. I live in Colorado, where it is very dry. I find that the first coat is usually ready for second coat after about an hour, and the 3rd coat about an hour after that. Use thin coats, so that the solvent can freely outgas. If you put thick coats on, you are likely to trap air bubbles under the finish. Use the search function on this site. Type in "permagloss" and do a search of "all dates". There is several nights worth of reading, available to help you.

George Forster
Fort Collins, CO

I have to replace a ferrule on an old time split bamboo fly rod as the existing male section is cracked. What is the best way to remove the old ferrule pieces? Is it safe and/or effective to apply low heat?

Hey guys, thanks again, I'll let you know how it goes.

If it is hot and humid turn the air on

Not blowing onto the rod though

Bill - willierods.com