I was bored yesterday so I decided to redo my thread carriage. I changed from the seperate thread tension device to springs on the thread spools and turned them from vertical to horizontal works great with regular thread but the matallic spools keep unwinding themselves. I cant figure out away to stop them from doing that. Anybody have any ideas?

When you say "unwinding" do you mean the thread itself or the spool tension nut? If the latter, then you need to add some sort of washer arrangement behind the tension nut so the revolving spool doesn't cause the nut to back off.

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Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> When you say "unwinding" do you mean the thread
> itself or the spool tension nut? If the latter,
> then you need to add some sort of washer
> arrangement behind the tension nut so the
> revolving spool doesn't cause the nut to back
> off.
>
> ............


Sorry Tom I mean the thread unwinding off the spool.

Sort of like it uncoils? Think about a sleeve or cap of some sort for your metallic spools to keep the thread from uncoiling. Of course, once the thread level drops a bit, this shouldn't be a problem.

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Got the same problem with metallic it's due to the springiness of the thread and still find myself wrapping rods with it from inside a cup

I am probably going to go back to the seperate tension device for the matallic thread

LOL! Perfect timing on this post:) I built a thread tensioner. Thought it would speed things up. I've always been more of the "from a cup" type too. I'm wrapping four saltwater rods with double foot guides and full underwraps. Aside from a little black in the guide wraps it is all metallic threads.

I have never had such a miserable time in my life. Man what I'd give for some of the old thread. The new stuff is like working with fine spring steel. Shreds when you pull it through. Impossible to pack tight. So fine I can hardly see it. After you snip it off it wraps all over the tensioner. Oh, and did I mention my brand new dryer motor won't run for more than 15 minutes before it overheats? Please don't ask what a "sagging" discovery that was!

So much for a relaxing week long vacation engaged in my favorite hobby building free rods for a friend.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

When I clip my metallic to finish a wrap, I put my index finger on the wrap to keep things in place. Then I put the thread between my middle and ring finger (and pinch down on it) and pull some thread, so it isn't under as much tension when you make the cut. When you release the thread after the cut, the metallic won't snap back and wrap around everything.

Sorry, it's a little tough to explain without a visual, but if you need one, I'll try to snap a pic or two later.

Joe

I just finished a rough version of what I think is going to work for me. For the matallic thread I put my sewing machine type tensioner on for my regular threads I am using the horizontal all thread with the springs and washers.I can now work 4 regular threads and 2 matallic at once if need be. It seems to work pretty good, will post pictures when I get the finished carriage done.

Interesting topic,

When I am ready for the cut on my thread to finish my wrap, I look for that POP! LOL. It tells me my thread is wrapping at the tension I desire. To me its the only way of knowing there was tension behind my wrap to the end of my wrap, if I don't get that little POP! Then I stop to consider if my tensioner was working properly. I suppose its just one way for me knowing there is tension, another is the flex of the blank as it turns. I figured the thread coming off the spool after cutting, is just the happenstance we accept in wrapping. I really don't have the issue of unraveling of the thread when using metallics, for the most part it stays on the spool. Its the non-metallic threads for me, that do the unwind affect no matter what tension is on the spool. I just take it as an acceptance of the craft! I switch to the magnetic tension device and I have very little if any (spider's nest) as I call it LOL. Good day Folks !

Rick H.

rwheil@msn.com

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To stop the unwinding of the tinsel thread,I put on a small ruber band around the spool, it stops the unwinding.

John; I put a picture of a tensioning method on the photo page that can be adapted to any type lathe. It will allow you to keep tension on the spool and to determine the amount by changing the weight attached. It will also allow you to back up without loosing the tension. The trick to keeping the nut on the shaft holding the spool from unscrewing itself is to have a shaft with a flat on it and a washer with a hole that matches the shaft. The flat keeps the washer from turning so it cannot unscrew the nut.

That would no doubt interest a lot of folks at the Expo in February. You'll be next to Andy in the Renzetti booth. Consider bringing it to show off.

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It will be there.

John,
You need to do what many folks use when they do embrodiery, or when they do serging with metallic thread.

They, essentially put a thread net over the top of the thead spool. The thread net allows you to easily remove thread from the spool, but when it is not being pulled off of the spool, will stay on the spool.

You explained the problem very well. i.e. your spool is not rotating, but the springness of the thread is causing the thread to spring off of the spool.

Here is an example of a "thread net" that will work very well on your thread spools to take care of the issues with springy thread:

[www.amazon.com]

[www.gursewingmachines.com]

Take care
Roger



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/01/2012 01:50AM by roger wilson.

Thanks guys you all have been very helpful.