Went to the local Ace Hardware hoping to find some Fixitif (or however it is spelled). Wound up with Krylon "Matte Finish".The label says it "protects arts, crafts, and valuables" which sounds like Fixitif. It supposedly "seals finished painting projects".

THIS STUFF IS EXTRAORDINARILY WORTHLESS AND DANGEROUS.

I had finished a rod, and applied the MHX decal along with some minimal artwork from a paint pen. Sprayed Krylon "Matte Finish" on it to "protect" my work.

The MHX decal and paint work simply disappeared! Totally messed up this rod that was a gift for a friend. The personalization is gone, as well as the rod specs from Mud Hole.

Fanny chapper.

All cans of finish usually have a disclaimer on them saying to try them on some part that cannot be seen first to see if there is a reaction with other parts of the finish.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/27/2011 08:49AM by Bruce Johnstone.

Your painting over ink not paint. Ink will desolve with just about any thinner. Fixative will do the same thing if applied to heavy and it runs, takes the ink with it.
Multiple lightly fogged coats is the key. I also would be leary of the lettering under the matte finish not having the lusture and clarity. Matte finishes will be shiney with clear over them but then usually it is not a transparent color and you cant see what is under it. Scuffing and recoating epoxy is not the same as putting clear over a clear matte finish, at least I would think not. The fixative I've used was crystal clear....A test is best!



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/27/2011 07:56PM by JIM MOWL.

Chip,
Most of the Krylon finishes containe Xylene which is a very powerful solvent and does a wonderful job in removing ink and paint.

Rather than using something like this, just mix up a batch of thread finish, apply and you will be in good shape.

Take care
Roger

[www.paintdocs.com]

[www.krylon.com]

The above Msda listing is for the Krylon mat finish.

As you can see, this product contains both Acetone, as well as Toluene. Both of these products do a wonderful job in dissolving inks and paints. So, if the product can be used at all, it would have to be used in very thin fog coats- letting dry between coats to avoid having enough Acetone or Toluene get to the items on the rod blank to cause issues.

As is always the case when a product is used for the first time - test on a test blank before applying the new product to the final product.

Be safe

Roger

Hi Chip,
I have used Krylon Workable Fixatif for about seven years to coat my inscription areas. I use Speed Ball opaque acrylic inks for my inscriptions and also Testors metallic paints (with the liquid siphoned off). I mask off area where I don't want any fixative to go and then do a light spray and after it dries, I do it a second time. I have yet to have any any problems with smearing or running of my inks with this Krylon product. I also use a coat of CP for my wraps and then apply I either PermaGloss or an epoxy finish.

Mike Blomme

Chip,
Sorry to hear that you had this problem. I'm not quite sure why your ink and MHX sticker dissolved. Did you use Krylon "Fusion" spray paint ? I only use Fusion to paint blanks because it adheres so well to the fiberglass and graphite blanks or any other plastic for that matter. After curing for about 5-7 days the fusion bonds to the blank, won't chip off and never yellows in the sunlight when covered with epoxy finish.

I make a lot of water slide decals on an inkjet printer for my custom made rods. I spray three protective coats of crystal clear Krylon Fusion on them at least 4 hrs. prior to soaking them in water in preperation for applying them to the blank. The fusion never dissolves or otherwise bothers the ink on the decal paper. Water will dissolve the inkjet ink so this step is critical before soaking them in water. Check to make sure you used " Krylon Fusion" and not plain Krylon Interior/Exterior spray.

James Carnes
Osprey Custom Fishing Rods
Charlotte, North Carolina
www.ospreycustomfishingrods.com
704-589-9601



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/27/2011 04:29PM by James Carnes.

I've used "Speedball Calligraphy Ink" on 3 rods, a St. Croix decal & MHX decal on 2 other rods. I sprayed a few light coats of "Rust-oleum Painters Touch Ultra cover 2X" clear gloss over them with no problem. I then covered ink & decals with "ProKöte thread finish. looks great!

First

Did you let the ink dry ??

Then like said - several Dust - coats over it Let dry ?? !!

Or

Just get the Fixative - on-line

Bill - willierods.com

I let the ink dry overnight & then let the rust-oleum dry over (next) night. I only build one rod at a time. It's just an hobby for me. so I can take my time. if you want to speed it up, use a hair dry on low for about a min.

I usually put a light coat of C.P. Over any ink or paint marker I don't know if it's absolutely necessary but I had to take finish back off a rod once because ink ran when the finish went on. So I figure better safe than sorry.

Rufus
Port Saint Lucie, FL

I've been using Fix a Tiff for YEARS over decals, including the ones that I print myself (which is most of them) I put a couple LIGHT coats on them before I even cut them out. I don't spray any on them after they are on the rod. Sometimes, I will put a coat of CP on. I have yet to have ANY kind of problem with a decal other that user error in applying it.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I cannot say for the Decals, But have used Testor's clear spray on for writings of enamel paint and the few inks I have used. It came out great. I have also used Flex coat CP on some of the Mud Hole decals with great results. I have heard of some Old school guys using a air brush with clear nail polish, But I would TEST AN AREA FIRST. there is also a clear coat spray that is used in ceramic crafts that I used a few times "In a pinch" with good results. If it's not something that can be marred by water- good Ol' flex coat CP is my first choice in most applications.

Good Luck!
Drewski

I am only guessing because I was not there.
But I suspect that Chip simply left the sprayer nozzle depressed for too long a period of time and left a coat of wet finish on the blank. I am further guessing that the wet finish with its contents of acetone and toluene simply dissolved anything that happened to be on the blank.

As has been pointed out by several other folks - several thin fogging coats - letting each coat dry completely is the way to go. Each fogging coat tends to seal the layer below without having enough solvent in the coat to do any harm to the underlying material.

A lot of thin coats - letting each coat dry completely is the way to go.

Be safe
REW

I'll also pile on...LIGHT is the key. It takes next to nothing for this product to work. Its amazing how little is actually needed.




......................

Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

here [www.krylon.com]

The fixatif or the clear will work
Keep it fare away and just Dust several coats
You should be able to find a store from the site to buy call the store to make sure they have what you want

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/29/2011 09:21AM by bill boettcher.

Try Krylon Crystal Clear. I have used Krylon Fixitif, CP and was not happy with the results. A fellow rod builder told me to try Krylon Crystal Clear, two light coats and perfection! I have never had a decal problem since switching to Crystal Clear. Applied two light coats, 10 minutes apart and let dry for at least an hour or two before applying epoxy. My decals have come out perfect since I switched to Krylon Crystal Clear.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/29/2011 11:43AM by Donald R Campbell.

I have used the Matte Krylon and the Fixatif on my homemade inkjet labels and never had a problem.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH