Has anyone experienced any problem with Flex Coat finish yellowing due to uv rays within a reasonable amount of time after being built?

Yes! IMO, it yellows faster than anything on the market. I had it yellow on a rod that had never been in the sun

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

the worst... use threadmaster or prokote.

the worst... use threadmaster or prokote.

I haven't used the new Prokote so I can't comment but I have heard ok stuff. I use Afcoat and Threadmaster and these have been so far the best for "staying clear" Though it seems that they all yellow just some faster then others. Flexcoat and more so if it's older will yellow before it's dry LOL! IMO Flexcoat needs to update their formulas, It seems to be outdated!! New technology in Resins is happening all the time!!

Is this the Flex Coat you are using ?? [www.mudhole.com] I have just started using it Did not seem to bad Thread-master is a lot better

Bill - willierods.com

Dave we stock the Threadmaster in all sizes in the lite and high build. Give me a call tomorrow if you need to get some delivered to you. As you now know I have a delivery service in your area twice a week.

Lance

I will never use Flex Coat again like Mike say's I to have had problem like rods made with Flex coat going yellow and they were not even out in the sun I only use Pro-kote and TM for my builds now they are a lot better then F C

Glenn McMurrian

Is this the flex coat you are talking about [www.mudhole.com]

Bill - willierods.com

I had some issues with it so I made the swap to Thread Master and Prokote. I've been very pleased with their performance and don't see myself changing again.

i have not used pro coat yet and have used ThreadMaster But have used the new Flexcoat UV and find it mixes clear drys clear and even in the cup is clear ??

How long it will stay clear is what I am hoping to find out before I use it on too many rods But it Ain't bad

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/20/2011 08:25AM by bill boettcher.

Just wanted to mention that the new Flex Coat thread finish, both regular and "Ultra HI-V" are much less prone to yellowing than the earlier formula.
Most of the epoxy finish products are in fact changing for the better.
We have had great results with Flex Coat over the years and it has been very reliable.
The issues I have seen have been over light colored blanks or thread.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

I agree 100% with Ron. The current Fex coat is a wonderful finish that has little issue with yellowing.

Roger

I have noticed that on the rods I have built and used Flex Coat.They seem to yellow when I use black thread. I would take a guess because black absorbs sun more readily that this is a possible cause.
Have also used Regular FC and still use FC Lite. I've used it on yellows reds oranges and these rods work and not much to see as far as yellowing. I started using Pro Kote last year and noticed right away the clarity and still holds it for the last 3 years. The only thing I did notice with PK is it maybe soft as I have one rod that has some finish chip off on my threads at the guides.

when it comes to Pro Kote try mixing Pro Kote with the hardener from Thread Master and it will become much more hard if that is what you are looking for but with me I have no problem with Pro Kote and the way it drys soft as it seams other do.

Glenn McMurrian

Strange,

I use Flex-coat exclusively on my builds and Field tested 6 rods for a complete year of Salmon fishing here on the Columbia river. I have inspect all of them for stress and yellowing and finish failure, none of the rods had any failure and on average about 20 Salmon caught on each of those rods. I also waited until the season was over and rods were stored for the winter in various conditions to see how they would come back. I build with Flex Coat and Flex-coat adhesive and my personal finish application procedure using U40 Perma-Gloss. I also use ProwWrap metallic threads with no under-wrap, Micro guides #4 American Tackle Arius, Batsons #4s and Tip Tops. I use no CP because ProwWrap dose not require it, so I avoid any possible adverse affects in compatibility (If any) from CP. I even stripped one rod that had over 30 Salmon landed on it, to see if there was any stress or movement with the guides on that blank (there were none).

I do understand everyone has their own process and procedure application methods and build with different materials at hand. I also believe that all things must be compatible in there make up when dealing with finish and epoxy combined. Its finding what works with you and for you that makes you build successfull. Failure is defined to me as Learning! It is not blaming a product for the reason of its failure right off the bat. If the product is not performing as it is intended for the applied use of that product, the (Last) thing in problem solving would be the product used!

The first question that comes to mind IMO is compatibility, method of application, procedure and then products used.There is very much (common sense) in building a custom rod and I will continue to use these products until I get a failure from one of my builds back on my bench. The only thing that has come back to me is a broken Micro guide, and the fish basically did the damage, taking line and brought the rod to close to the side of the boat. I suppose it irritates me a bit to see a bashing of a said product before any other questions were asked on compatibility, procedure and application method of said product and even Field tested for the matter. I usually don't like using names, but the products I have mentioned in my post work to (above satisfactory) in my current level of building. This is just my thots on the subject here folks! Be Well and Happy Holidays !

Rick H.

rwheil@msn.com

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