Hi all,

For my next build, I want to dabble in 2 handed fly casting, and after some research, I have decided on a switch rod. Now, I live nowhere near salmon or steelhead water, but plan on lake fishing for warmwater species, primarily streamer fishing.

Questions, what type of taper would be recommended for this style of switch fishing(Skagit, Scandi, Spey)? Do I match the rod weight with what I would normally use on a standard one handed rod? What is the best line head length for stripping in steamers and "shooting" the largest amount of running line?

Thank you for any responses as I am fairly new to this concept of two handed casting, but see the added distance a great andvantage while lake fishing, not to mention no need for a backcast.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/02/2011 01:34PM by Josh Clawson.

I would look at a 5 or 6wt switch blank and throw a skagit or scandi line depending on how big and heavy you streamers are. The current generation of skagit short lines work well with switch rods. So does Wolff Ambush lines. Just buy the line and add 5 - 15 feet of "tip" to work with your casting stroke. Forget what you know about "wt" and work with "grain window". A 6wt switch will require a much heavier line then a normal 6wt overhead line. Feel free to contact me off line ([email protected]). This conversation is probably of little interest to the rod building community unless you want to start talking about the rod build and blank selection.

Batson, PacBay, Meiser, Angler's Roost all make lower cost blanks ($60 - $160).

Quinn

Quinn, thanks for the quick response, and your probably right about the subject matter of my post.
I do have a couple of questions concerning the build though.
Grip length(fore and rear) what is typical or at least a guideline to start from?
Will a standard fly guide set up work or should I look at something else, ceramics?
Thanks again.

This should help [www.meiserflyrods.com]

Bill - willierods.com

[www.rainshadowfishing.com]

Your best bet for lake fishing streamers is an overhead cast. For many spey casts to include skagit you need to have a "set up" which in many cases the line needs to be at a 90 deg from the caster (downstream) and for lake fishing it is not really posilbe. Now not to say that you can't I have done it before with a variation of the Perry Poke but it is by no means the best tool for the job. If you have the room (back cast) a Rio outbound or other similar head in an over head cast is MUCH MUCH better. You can strip it in and pull it out strait back using the water as an anchor, one trip back with the line and shoot. Batson switch rods are nice I have built the 5, 7, and 8wt. The 5 wt will toss a 270gr-300gr head a mile while carriing a nice size payload.
If you any further questions I would be glad to help. Best of luck.

Grip lenth Front is typicly 1 inch longer than the rod length in inches (10'8" batson I use a 12" fore)
Rear is a bit of choice on your part. If you have large hands and will be using the rod in a 2 handed configuration a lot make it longer 5" or so. If you will use it in a single hand mode more the longer rear grip gets in the way so make it shorter 3"-3.5" I would suggest holding the rod and doing some false casting (with on line) and make what is confertable for you.

Guides- IMHO snake with a 16, 12 stripper. No need for ceramics.

Eric



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/03/2011 01:05PM by Eric Viburs.

IF1086
Rainshadow RX7 Switch Rod

Component Part Number Part Description
Rod Blank Model # IF1086-4M 10'8" 4pc 6wt Switch Rod Blank - Matte Clear
Butt cap: SWHDCCBC20F Switch Grip Hard Density Cork Composite Butt Cap with Flare
Reel Seat: RYFW-SG Y Fly Seat with Stabilized Light Burl Insert with Butt Cap & Trim Ring - Shiney Gunsmoke
Reel Seat Shim: n/a
Rear Grip: SW325S-300 3.25" Rear Switch Grip Super Grade ID .300"
Fore Grip: SW1175S-300 11.75" Fore Switch Grip Super Grade ID .300"
Winding Check: LTCWC365 Lt TitCar Plated Winding Check .365" I.D.
Hookeeper: FHK-TC Folding Hook Keeper-Tich
Tip Top XTCHFTL4.5 ALPS SS316-Titanium Carbide Pltd Fly TopLarge Loop 4.5 Tube
Guides (see below for size and quantity) XTCHSFGP ALPS SS316- Single Foot Fly Guide TICH w/o Chrome
Guides (see below for size and quantity) XTCLXNZG ALPS SS316-LXN Guide w/'Z' Ring - TiCh w/o chrome

Guide order from the tip top Guide Guide Placement - In inches from the tip top
1st XTCHSFGP3 4"
2nd XTCHSFGP3 9.375"
3rd XTCHSFGP3 15.5"
4th XTCHSFGP3 22.75"
5th XTCHSFGP4 31"
6th XTCHSFGP4 40.5"
7th XTCHSFGP4 51.25"
8th XTCHSFGP5 63.75"
9th XTCLXNZG12 78"
10th XTCLXNZG16 94.25"

Karry Batson
Batson Enterprises Inc.
Ph: (877) 875-2381
Fax: (360) 683-3579
karry@batsonenterprises.com
www.batsonenterprises.com

You dont need current to spey cast. There is a great casting demo for lake casting on you tube. I don't have time right now to find it and post the link but you can spey cast anywhere with some adaptation.

Not saying you need current to spey cast just saying that Skagit is not the best set up for a lake situation that is all. Skagit lines are designed to carry heavy sink tips and wieghted flies. You can lake fish just fine with a sinking line and longer leader, if fact better than a sink tip. Just wanted him to do is homework before spending all kinds of money on lines and what not to find out it was not what he was looking for......

Okay, I'm curious. Any point is this technique for pure distance reasons alone? I'm thinking salt water....perhaps even surf....where longer casts can make the difference. Assume there is nothing behind me to prevent normal overhand casting motion.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.