I am in the process of building a 7' medium power fast action spinning rod from a St. Croix SC-V blank. I think the model number is SCV70MF. I purchased a set of Fuji Alconite concept guides (9 pieces). I cannot find any good references for guide spacing other than experimentation or copying a similar rod. Does anyone out there have some history with combination? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I've built alot of the 7MF's from St. Croix but not on the SCV blank. I would recommend using the 27x method. You'll need the reel in order for it to work (or at least the measurments). I would never use one of the manufacturer's 'guide sets', they'll give you some disappointing results compared to the 27x method.

If you don't have the reel handy, can you at least tell us what model it is? If so, I'm sure some guys on here could give you the measurements you need.

For my builds on a rod like that, the reels typically call for a guide train like BYAG 25, 16, 8, followed by BLAG 4's to the tip. 8 guides total.

jeremy

Try this:
[www.anglersresource.net]

Or this st croix [www.stcroixrods.com]

Bill - willierods.com

I have used that exact guide set, and can promise that you will be disappointed. There is too much of a gap between the 30 and the 16 to make a good NGC rod. If you do plan to use that set, order an individual guide #20 and a #12 of the same type guide. Then apply the NGC spacing principles and you will end up with a really nice rod with about 8 guides on it. The beauty is, it's easy to do yourself.

I am a novice, and found this extremely helpful: [www.rodbuilding.org]

I do think Fuji publishes some spacing charts, but as others have said, beware of any spacing chart or any prepackaged set of guides. From my limited experience, the NGC as described here makes a great spinning rod, but that set of guides does not have the proper guides to do it right.

Drew

what you can also do is pick up a cheap set of concept guides Spinning say from 30 - 10 then you have plenty to figure out what to buy Always buy several more so you get a stock of them

Bill - willierods.com

Contrary to Drews post, the guide set that you purchased will work just fine for that rod blank.

I use a very simple method to place guides.
I begin to flex the blank from the tip - at the point where the blank just begins to flex, I will place a piece of tape. This sill be for the 2nd guide on the rod.
Then, I will place a guide between that point and the tip that is a touch closer to the guide than to the tip.

Then, I will increase the flex, and as the rod flexes more deeply, I will continue to place tape markers.

After completing all of the tape markings, I will eyeball the tape markings to insure that they are showing an increased spacing as I move toward the butt of the rod.

I will generally place the first guide - from the butt end - at 20 inches from the end of where the reel is located.

Then, I will make guide shifts as needed.

Finally, I will take a sighting from the reel through the first two ro three guides to be sure that they are on a straight line. Then, from the 3rd guide to the last guide, I double check to be sure that I have a nice straight line to the tip.

If there is one or more guides in the stock set that you purchased, by all means make changes. If you want to use smaller or larger guides, by all means do so.

Custom rod building is called custom, because as the builder can build a rod with what every components you wish, placed how ever you wish, on what ever blank that you wish - using what ever handle and reel seat that you wish.

By the way, especially, if I am going to be using fairly still mono line on a rod like this: I much prefer the use of the size 30 guide fore the first guide.
If you are using more limp line - either lighter mono, or braid, then you may want to downsize the size 30 guide to something less.

Use the guide setup, with the spacing that you like.

After you have glued on the tip, and taped the guides in place, mount the reel, thread line through the guides and tip and grab the line to simulate the bending of the rod, as if the fish were pulling mightily on the rod.
Before doing any guide wrapping confirm that the rod is properly loaded with the guide spacing that you have chosen for your rod.

Also, on a semi slack line reel in 30 or 40 feet of line, checking to see how the line follows each of the guides during a retrieve.

I always like to have the guide sizes, and spacing to minimize line drag during a straight rod, slack line retrieve. As part of that check, I generally like to verify that the first guide up from the butt end tends to follow the entire circumference of the first guide.

If the first guide is the wrong size, or wrong height, or wrong location - there may be a tendency for the line to tend to stay near the top or the bottom of the guide causing an angled line drag point as the line is retrieved.

Take care
Roger

This spacing may give you a starting point.

Guide spacing Specs(inches from tip, center ring over mark) 4.5-9.25-14.25-19.75-25.75-32.5-40-49

I have used this for a 7' popping blank.

NO TWO BLANKS FLEX THE SAME Even from the same batch So after you set the spacing from - any chart - static test to get it correct Then test cast and adjust

Bill - willierods.com

Andrew, read the 27X article. Then read the one on static testing. Buy the extra guides like Drew suggests. In fact order enough so that you will have one of every size (and several running guides) as a keeper set for building future rods. It will pay off in the long run in shipping costs.

Assuming you do the above, and understand it, you will never feel the need to ask about guide spacing again. There is something really nice about feeling certain that you have figured out the very best guide train. It is easy but does require a little bit of personal effort. NO factory spacing chart will come close....I promise it is well worth the effort:)

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Thanks for all the info. I ended up using the 27X method to find the choke then using a striaght edge from the choke to set the other guides (the article link explained the process very well). Had to do a little playing to make the spacing look good to the eye because of the ring sizes that came with the set. Will tape them on in position and check the alignment, etc. I have made quite a few rods but have probably not put enough thought into guide spacing. The information has opened my eyes to the possibility of better performance, not just keeping the line off the blank.