I have a Sage RPLXi 9 1/2' 9wt that was built to Sage's specs years ago by a rodmaker from Minnesota. I rechecked it today and set my AA scale on a level and I was able to let the rod settle and I'm confident my measurements are dead on - 75 pennies (ERN 9.38) and an AA of a hair under 65 - so using Jim Spooner's reasoning the rod is a mod-fast action. It's a great rod for Salmon as I can maneuver them pretty good.

But without actually using the rod to land a fish, how can you check how stout a rod's butt section is? I'm sure some rods could dead lift an 8 1/3 pound gallon of water but is there a formula or process on how to check it? Thanks.

For a relative unit of measurement, you can use the CCS Big Picture or the URRS power component.

For deadlift capacity you have two options: First would be to deadlift increasing amounts of weight until the blank fails. That would give you an accurate measurement of maximum deadlift capacity, but you'll no longer have the blank. The second way, although not as accurate, would be to look at the maximum leader or tippet strength recommended by Sage. Generally, the maker wants the line to be the weak link in the chain so if they recommend nothing more than say, a 12lb tippet, you might surmise that deadlifting more than 12lbs would exceed the deadlift capacity of the blank.

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Thanks Tom, your last sentence makes sense - I'll read the CCS Big Picture about a dozen more times and hopefully the light will come on.

I think I get it. Looks like the hardest part is setting up the "holder" and ensuring that it holds the rod/blank perfectly level. Set it up initially with 12" of the tip sticking out and deflect that 4" with a bag of pennies and measure the AA (yipe) and do this 6 more times. I've got an old Bass Pro rod that I think I'll practice on first !

I'm not even quite certain of what you ask. However it is an area of interest for me so I can't help but comment.

As I sit here I try to imagine myself faced with a rod I love very much but one I have never fished and have no information about. Rather an unlikey chain of events but regardless. I suppose I would flex the blank and get a feel for its power. I'd make a guess as to the material used to construt it and its intended purposed. This would be very subjective but there are few 10 foot bass rods and few 5 foot fly rods.

I static test and deadlift everything I do. I have noticed a few things. Do keep in mind I build salt water rods.

Typically there will be a light tip section which will deflect a good deal as very little extra weight is added. Then you will move into a stiffer mid-section of the rod. It will still flex more and more as additional weight is added. Then you will get to a point where the blank will begin to "lock up". Now you are at a point where a little more weight hardly causes any more deflection (or at least causes much less deflection than before). This is when you are entering the possible danger zone where attention is critical. For some rods you are just getting into the power of the rod. A very fast taper and powerfull glass rod might act like this. Often a rod that is reaching the point of being stressed gives signs. It starts to make noises rather than bend as you add a tad more weight. Somehow you just know:)

I have never fished a Sage. They have a reputation of being a high end rod. Sometimes that can indeed equate to fragility. IMHO a 9 weight rod is intended for pretty hardy fish. While they offer many things these days traditionally you had what, a 10 and a 12 weight after that? The 12 weight being for the largest fish around, marlin and tarpon and such. A 10 weight for "inshore" tarpon, bull redfish, maybe even dolphin, albacore, and sailfish... etc. Point being that those weight fly rods were built to handle much bigger fish than any "bass rod". A 9 weight is steelhead/salmon territory to me (keep in mind I'm in Miami and don't fly fish). I'd ask you what pound test (in a normal rod) would you fish for those same fish? I have a steelhead rod, a 3 power hot shot blank. While I didn't take it that far I'd wager it could lift 20 pounds. I have a 12 weight fly rod which I have not built yet but I'd say it could lift more. In my area, an 8 or 9 weight is viewed as the right size for inshore/flats fishing. Given that I'd be very surprised (and dissapointed) if it couldn't lift a gallon jug of water.

After all that I'd be remiss in my duties if I didn't tell you to exercise caution. I use a bucket tied with sash cord to the tip top and have a garden hose rigged so I can add water from a remote location. A rod is quite dangerous when it breaks. You don't do this stuff inside nor without due caution. I do encourage you to consider it. Nothing builds the same confidence in what your rod, line, knots, and back is capable of. I find most greatly over estimate what they think they can lift (after you finish testing take the rod out of the holder, mark the bucket, and have someone add water little by little to said mark). I have found no better way to judge precisely how much pressure I can afford to put on that "once in a lifetime" fish.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

you mean like this?

[www.rodbuilding.org]

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Dang Alex, you aren't being kind to that blank! Least you know it ain't gonna break from lifting no large mouth into the boat:)

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Very true Russ. You can bet though I can tell you about the blanks I am building on and what I know they can handle though (although I may not tell everyone that info!)

But man... when that thing lets go... look out!

Check this... that blank has no fiberglass scrim. Enjoy. :)

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Wanna email me the brand:)

Russ in Hollywood, FL.