HEY GUYS!
I did my first bit of marbling work, and it turned out beautiful! One of the coats I put on, seemed to not have been mixed well, or maybe not equal parts? Anyhow I put some more coats on and it looked good and the finish was rock hard (THREADMASTER). I go back today after a week to finally pick up the rod from the corner of my room behind a vanity like thing (antique that my parents just shoved in my room) and this morning when i picked it up, I noticed that it was yellow on the 270 axis. I was puzzled!! I thought I was seeing things due to lack of sleep!! Picked up the rod again... Yeah, I wasn't seeing anything... it was yellowed, i had white pigment in the marbling and you could tell it wasn't that white! Then I go over to my rod lathe to look at the leftover epoxy that dripped off and was on the aluminum base!! SOME OF THE DROPLETS WERE YELLOWED!!! PRESUMING IT WAS FROM THE SAME COAT THAT YELLOWED! BUT HOW COULD THAT BE THAT ONLY ONE OF THE COATS OF FINISH YELLOWED!! IM LOST! What really puzzles me is that the marbling area was not even in the light because it was behind the vanity.. I think I've lost my mind!! HELP!!!!!!!!!!!

THANKS!

Gabe
Jr. NERB aka... Billy V's PITA.

Sounds like a bad batch of final coating. what brand was it? I literally just got done with a marbling project and did not have that issue. But im die hard with prokote

Gabe,
How long have you had the finish? We have the highest UV inhibitors in the industry hands down, but even after time ours also starts to yellow to a degree, but remains clearer then any other on the market. Send me a PM and I will try to help you figure out what could have happened.
Thanks
Scott Parsons

Scott Parsons
919-900-8998
[www.roddancer.com]
[www.fishhawkthreads.com]

Age has as much or more to do with epoxy ambering or yellowing as anything else. You can put epoxy in a dark closet and it will still yellow nearly as quickly as if you had left it out in natural light. The "new" batch of finish you order and receive this week, may already be several months old.

I have no idea what type of pigment you used to tint the epoxy with, but if it was paint pigment, then the solvent itself may have contributed to the discoloration.

..............

Gabe,
What was the purchase date on the finish?
What was the date of manufacture on the finish?

Age yellows.

Take care
Roger

Thank you all, but my biggest issue is that only one section of the wrap yellowed, and its funny because it only happened on one of the coats. Weirdest thing ever!! I LOVE Threadmaster! My FAVORITE finish. But I can't seem to conclude how that could have happened... Absolutely no clue of how old it is, but i have had it for under 9 months. Probably 8 or so.
Thanks

Gabe

Adding pigments, of any kind, into an epoxy is not recommended by the manufacturer. My guess is that something in the pigment is the cause.

...............

Thank you Tom,
but here is my dilemma... There are drops of epoxy on my rod building lathe that are from the same coat, and they are also very yellow! PUZZLING!

A contamination issue during application? A change of brushes before finishing that wrap?

Gabe; Did you mix it with the plastic handle of a throw away brush??
The colored plastic handles will melt right into the finish and color it.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

Hm,

I marble extensively and your problem has never come up in my experimentation's, in fact to this day all the rods I have built have had at least 100 plus hours in the sun and in use and no yellowing to date. I would start by looking at your products used. I haven't tried Thread master finish as of yet, I am satisfied with flex-coat products for my marbling. There are many finish coat products folks use and are successful with marbling effects. I don't use testors paint for a pigment base for One good reason! It has a solvent base in the paint that is not compatible with some epoxy finishes in fact most of them. They tell you to be careful when using Testors and not to get to that settled solvent. Personally, its risky using it and for the money you put into the rod with parts and finish I am not willing to take the risk.

I am not sure what pigment base your using here Gabe? I use CRB Marbling Pigments which are designed for using with epoxy finish. I would recommend those pigments to anyone trying there first attempt at a marbling application on there blank. I know folks use Testors for marbling and are successful at it but I am assuming here, they are very experienced at getting it out of the bottle correctly. There are several powder base pigments that work well. Anglers workshop have a selection and I have tried them with excellent results, I am sure there are vendors on our side list who carry them as well.

My best guess at your delima since the whole finish application was not yellow and only certain areas were effected and you used Testors paint for a pigment it may have gotten some of that solvent in the mix. That's my best guess at the moment. I hope this helps in solving your issue good luck Gabe!

Rick H.

rwheil@msn.com

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Used the CRB custom marblling kit, and i mixed it with a metal spatula too! THIS IS DRIVING ME BANANAS!

Used the CRB custom marblling kit, and i mixed it with a metal spatula too! THIS IS DRIVING ME BANANAS!

Roger at Flex Coat once told me that finish that wasn't mixed well will yellow much faster. It would make sense especially if the UV inhibitors are actually in one part. You did say that possibly one of your coats didn't mix well. Just a thought.

I asked Scott @Roddancer that same question. Im assuming its that.

Heya Gabe,

If that was the case and you did use the CRB kit, I would go with what you implied earlier about your mixing of that epoxy. Its stands to reason that it may have been a faulty mixing error. It happens when your in the middle of things and you say to your self: was that even on the hardener and the epoxy ? When I do it.... I just throw it out and start a new batch... LOL I cant take the risk . Well I hope the next one goes well for you. Good day to everyone!

Rick H.

rwheil@msn.com

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I have used all of the epoxy's and I have found that Flex Coat yellows the most right from the start and gets even worse with time,Tried Master tends to be clear but it also tend's to crack at the guide feet with age I have found Prokote to be the clearest epoxy out there and the best epoxy there is but it sometime gets a bad rap as some people think that it takes a long time to dry well Prokote dries hard in about 2 to 3 day's and if you are really looking for that rock hard you will be hard set not to let any finish dry for at least 2 days so I say try Prokote as it is the clearest epoxy of them all and letting is dry is not big deal like some people make it out to be so I say ProKote all the way!

Glenn McMurrian