Out of curiosity, what do most folks do with a blank after its receipt, but prior to starting a build.

As I have posted before, I like to do a deep flex of the blank - within the normal flex parameter of the blank to determine if there is a build issue.
i.e. if the blank breaks when I do the deep flex, I want it to break - BEFORE - I do any thing else with the blank and spend any time, effort, or components on the blank.

I will do a good wipe down of the entire blank to insure that the entire blank is free of any wax, solvents, finger prints or other manufacturing contamination with DNA. This will also disclose if there is any sort of finish problem with the blank.
Again, I want to know about any finish problem on a blank, before spending time and money on the blank.

I will sight down the rod, determine the straightest axis, mark it, and also determine if there is any bend or crook in the blank or tip that would disallow using the blank for an excellent finished product.

If the afore mentioned checks are all right, I will check the butt and tip of the rod for any "ragged" appearance. If there is any noted, I will use the abrasive chop saw to chop off any "ragged" butt or tip issues.


Summary -
These are the bulk of my pre build blank checks to save any time or money being wasted on a blank that has a manufacturing issue.

Roger



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/09/2011 11:09AM by roger wilson.

roger wilson Wrote:
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> As I have posted before, I like to do a deep flex
> of the blank - within the normal flex parameter of
> the blank to determine if there is a build issue.

Roger - please describe your process for deep flexing and how you asses the normal flex parameter for each model. No set up here - just wondering how you've determined the "right" method as I am sure there are multiple versions out there.

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AD

I wash with soap and water. Decide which axis the guides go on. Mock up grips and reel seat....typically oversized EVA and masking tape arbors as needed. Tape the guides on, mount a reel, and proceed with a static test.

Depending upon the blank, and desired usage, my static test might stop at maximum drag setting....or it might go as far as desired line class to be used. Yup, I am crazy and have hung 30 pounds off a 30# class rod prior to wrapping. Then I follow it up by seeing how the rod feels when I manually lift the 30 pounds. No other way gives me the same confidence in my ability to judge just how much pressure I can put on my blank and line combination. When the time comes it is nice to have the total confidence to know you can clamp down on the spool and the line will break before the blank. Generally the fish's will breaks way before that and you turn him.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Alex,
When I do a deep pre building flex, I hold the lower portion of the blank and begin to flex the blank to its near 90 degree point - working from the butt to the tip.
If each section of the blank, can be flexed to its typical maximum (in use) amount, I consider it acceptable. It only takes about 10 seconds for this as you quickly do the bend, moving your hand from the mid section to the tip of the rod.
Of course, as the bending hand is moving toward the tip, the holding hand is also moving toward the tip so that there is typically only a couple of feet distance between the holding hand and flexing hand as the deep flex is done.
This way, each section of rod is deeply flexed, is consistent with the appropriate amount of stress that will be placed on that section of rod during a big fish fight and will give the builder confidence that there is not a flaw in the blank.

Of course, this action is being done on typical fresh water rods.
For salt water rods, for 100 lb + fish, one needs to have a bigger and more robust blank holder and a more direct weighting method to get the blank flexed properly.


Take care
Roger



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/10/2011 10:16AM by roger wilson.