Anyone uses the aliphatic polyurethane coating "Max Seal" from Polymer Products? I would like to get some feedback if anyone wanna share.

Simple answer "yes" as a color preserver

Can this product be also used to final coat an entire 80lb class rod? Or, will crack overtime?

Since it's a polyurethane, there is a good chance it would make an excellent top coating for a blank. It would certainly be more suitable than an epoxy for that task.

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I've never tried to do that.

i have used it as a top coating over a painted blank...i have not had any problems...

John

Not to be a pain but did you wipe it on
How long did it take to fully cure
And most of all - how hard was it when cured Good to wrap over hard smooth

Bill - willierods.com

bill boettcher Wrote:
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> John
>
> Not to be a pain but did you wipe it on
> How long did it take to fully cure
> And most of all - how hard was it when cured Good
> to wrap over hard smooth

From your post seams that you know pretty well this product, so let me ask you as easily as possible - Do you observe any cracks over time? Perhaps some bad feedback after few months years?

No I do not know it I do know the auto type clears it is just the price of getting them and trying to get them to do a Blank

Also i keep looking at this stuff [www.klasskote.com]
Price is good and it has been talked about as a good product ??

Bill - willierods.com

KlassKote is a paint - a solvent based epoxy paint. It's thin and light, but will amber over time. It's going to make a better blank coating than the epoxy casting resins we use for coating guide wraps, but won't be as good as most urethanes are for coating blanks.

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Said to be a Urethane ?? [www.klasskote.com]

Bill - willierods.com

bill boettcher Wrote:
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> No I do not know it I do know the auto type clears
> it is just the price of getting them and trying
> to get them to do a Blank
>
> Also i keep looking at this stuff
> [www.klasskote.com]
> Price is good and it has been talked about as a
> good product ??


Yeah one problem with that think LIKE MANY OTHER AUTOMOTIVE 2 OR 3 PART URETHANE "isocyanates". Please read this, and decide if you wanna take your health risks associated with it : [en.wikipedia.org]
The Max Seal is water base, near to 0 odor smell indoor use friendly . The only think that i wasn't able to fully confirm YET is this stuff will crack over months or years or not.

Bogdan
That is the reason that I answered earlier that I had not tried coating a blank - not that I haven't but because I can't confirm durability over time & flexing of a fishing rod blank. I've used it for years as a thread sealer under many product over coats and can say it works for that very well. As for application on a rod blank - the ways I've tried: paint sprayer - high pressure/paint sprayer artist's touch up gun -low pressure; cheese cloth wipe down; coffee filter wipe down; blank dipping (like bamboo is finished); wipe on with finger. They've all worked. The low pressure spray required thinning the product because of the small aperture opening of the gun. The high pressure spray, as you would expect, lots of product waste in overspray. Wiping with cheese cloth and coffee filters worked well. Dipping worked best but required lots of room over head (length of the blank plus length of the dipping tube): 6 foot blank plus 6 foot pvc tube = 12 feet total over head. In each case I scuffed (deglossed) the blank finish to ensure good adhesion. When done the blank looked good. I simply can not vouch for what the blank looked like in a year or two



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/04/2011 07:48PM by Ken Preston.

Being in South Florida, the sun pretty much yellows epoxy more fast then in a four season weather areas. So, basically, just painting a blank and try it to keep it as UV protected as possible seams not to be a such an easy job without health risks involved . I think i'll gonna go ahead and use it as top coat since PG or LS are too hot for this particular project build.

UV protected does not necessarily mean protection against yellowing. Often, it refers to structural degradation.

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Tom Kirkman Wrote:
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> UV protected does not necessarily mean protection
> against yellowing. Often, it refers to structural
> degradation.
>
> ..............

In this case if often, it refers to structural degradation, then that means that this product should not crack overtime, since they do advertise it as an UV Protection Polyurethane . Right?

Doesn't mean it won't crack, just that it won't crack or degrade as quickly as it would otherwise.

...........

I have used the Max Seal and while it stays pretty clear it has a slight bluish tint, it also is NOT solvent resistent so if you build a boat rod keep it away from gas. I poured it into a tube of PVC and dipped it. It sets rather quick and is hard in 24 hours. Just note it is not as hard as a solvent paint finish

I now spray my blanks with 2k auto finish in a gun but a product called Spray Max comes in a spray can and it is a 2k (2 part) auto clear. I have painted quite a few of blanks with this stuff and it is plenty flexiable. It's not cheap and I found it was better to go with a spray gun setup since my colors are not limited and the paint is cheaper in quanity.

The wipe on PG and Lumiseal work great but the wipe on can be hit and miss. I've had it come out great and some not so great!!

Maxseal is water thin..i was looking for an alternative to permagloss for a topcoating several years ago and found it(i think Ken suggested it). i developed a way to "dip" it and actually demonstrated this during a seminar at the ICRBE several years ago.
I hang the blank tip down.
I make a funnel using a soda bottle.(cut the bottom out)
Place a bucket or container under the hanging blank to recapture the unused maxseal.
Take the funnel and place it near the top(butt) of the hanging blank.
Use some saran wrap to close off the remainder of the hole in the funnel.
Fill the funnel with maxseal and smoothly go down the blank. You will have to "play" with the correct tension holding the saran wrap and funnel as you go down the blank. You will lose some of the masxeal, but the trick is to keep the funnel full as you go down the blank so you get a "dipping" of the blank. The bucket at the bottom recaptures what you dont use and can be used again. The maxseal is very thin so will bleed off the tip into the bucket. It is usually dry in about an hour or so(depending on temperature and humidity).
this method worked well for me. a drawback is if you have a tall enough ceiling to hang a blank from and/or are you tall enough to use this method in one smooth pass. I found that a 7ft rod was about my limit in the area i had to work. This method can also be used with paints and allows you to get a "dipping" of the blank without using a dip tube that requires quite abit of the medium used.

Maxseal is used for sealing concrete and bridges as well as recommended for rod coatings(according to the manufacturer). I have had no issues with it. It is not as hard as permagloss, but will not melt paints. I actually spilled some on my driveway and it was there for several years.

John Timberlake,

Did you see any color changes or cracks after few years on blanks that you coated with maxseal? From what John Martines said on his post Max Seal - quote "is NOT solvent resistant" - did you Timberlake, happen to run into issues like this on any of your rods?