Hi mates!!
I'm going to build a new rod for czech nymphing. I would like to build a 10"#3. I think that guides could be micro. Is it possible? What do you think could be the best model i should buy??
The blank could be the ESN that i'm earning for.
I apreciate advices!! Thanks


"This post is a copy of other posted in other forum"

Hi Jose,

We make the finest micro's in the world in my opinion. As you may know the number one micro rod in the world is the Micro Magic made by Boyd Duckett and he chose our guide above all others due to their design.

Our Artus and Artus HD's (which just came out), sport our Ring Lock design to keep ring loss at a minimum. They also are contructed of a high guage 316ss or titanium frames to prevent distortion and foot sheer. Our foot lock design also prevents pull out which plagues many of the micro's on the market today. The super strong NanoLite and DuraLite rings give you braid proof performance and extend your line life.

As for your 10 #3 I'll let the experts answer that one. The one thing to remember you will need more micro's than you would use for regular casting guides due to their height which can make them impractical for some applications.

Here is the press release on the new Artus HD.

Artus HD

The all new Artus HD utilizes a saltwater gauge 316SS or titanium frame for unsurpassed strength which protects the NanoLite ring, arguably the finest in the industry. Using this Artus HD Ring Lock frame design means they are the most durable micro ring guide ever made and are ideal for inshore saltwater rods.

The frame is designed to give a tremendous weight to strength ratio which will give the user a lifetime of performance and durability. This single foot micro guide features AT’s Ring Lock frame which keeps rings securely in place dramatically reducing rod warranty and repair. The extra strong vector angle gives tremendous strength to the foot and leg transition virtually eliminating foot sheer. The exclusive Foot Lock design virtually eliminates guide pull out eliminating the need for a locking wrap.

This new design adds structural strength reducing torsion that can dislodge the ring. The Ring Lock design will protect the ring securing it in place with greater surface area regarding frame-to-ring contact which also provides a larger epoxy reservoir.

The guides are offered with AT’s x-strong, super hard and slick, braid proof NanoLite rings the strongest ceramic ring of its kind as well as our braid proof DuraLite rings.

American Tackle's own Nanolite rings are diamond polished to allow near zero coefficient of friction with wet line. These rings are utilized to provide the ultimate in durability. They’re amongst the hardest ceramics available comparable to SiC but costing much less. Their strength allows a reduction in material resulting in reduced weight without sacrificing durability. Hardness and low coefficient of friction means they will endure all the punishment of today's modern braids and super lines while extending your casts and line life. ATC also grinds the surface of their NanoLite rings round to dramatically reduce line wear.

American Tackle is leading the way in Micro Guide technology. Rod design is finally catching up with the new super lines utilized today.

Joe Meehan, American Tackle Co. Int

Jose,
It all depends on the size of your knots and connections. I find that anything smaller than a size 6 ceramic restricts the loop to loop connection that I like to use. If you use a nail knot, you can probably go smaller, but only you can make that determination. Also, if you fish when it's cold, ice formation on the guides can be more of a problem, with smaller guides.

George Forster
Fort Collins, CO

I built a cts 10' 3wt Affinity X with pacbay Minama 4's ring size 4. I use a nail not and don't have a problem with my line and knot passing thur. It's my favorite rod I own.

Bob

Wow, i'm impressed, i must read more. The artus & artus and the minama sounds fine. Bob, one question if you can tell me, how should be the guide chart? Sizes and order, or should be then in the same size? And for the stripping guide, have you used micro too? Thanks in advance mate!!!

Ahh, and sorry for my english, i'm from Spain (Pamplona).

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/06/2011 05:57PM by jose gulias.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/06/2011 05:40PM by jose gulias.

I used a 12, 8 strippers and ran 4 all the way out. I don't think you need to use more than normal I didn't. I taped them on according to a guide chart I found and did the static placement for final placement. I bought mine from Schneiders rod shop and he had some unbraced ceramic tops that match up nice.

Bob

Jose,
Not my first choice, escpecially on a long 3 weight.
Most insert guides, even micro's are 2 to 3 times heavier than a larger dia wire gude.
For finesse techniques keep the weight off the tip for easier casting and quicker rod response.
Size 1 light wire titanium single foot are very hard to beat for knot clearance and light weight.

Eugene Moore

Thanks Eugene!! I thought that micros were lighter than single foot. Then what do you think should be good and lights and which sizes? Thanks all mates!!

I was not familiar with this style fishing and found this rather interesting article:

[globalflyfisher.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/07/2011 11:30AM by roger wilson.

[www.youtube.com]

[www.youtube.com]

Jose,
I've weighed both and the light wire single foot titanium is the lightest I've found.
They are pricey but the increase in rod response is substantial.
Light wire titanium vs stamped steel frame with a ceramic insert.
If you require the wear resistance of a ceramic insert ( spinning and casting rods ) they are the first choice but spend the extra for the titanium frames for the top several guides.
Fly lines by their nature are relatively soft and ceramic isn't required for wear resistance.
I've never worn out a fly guide in 30+ years of fishing.

Eugene Moore

Then the recoil RSF ligth should be the best choice, do you agree? I fish rivers from small to medium wild brownies. I think that it will increases the feel of the rod when a trout touches the nymph.

Jose,
Some guides are lighter than the standard snake fly rods.

But, there is weight and there is weight.
My guess is that if you build two identical rods - one with the snake guides and one with the titanium guides, you are going to be hard pressed to tell the difference in the bite of a fish between them.

Is there a weight difference - yes.
Does it make a difference to the fish- no. Will you be able to detect the bite of a fish better with lighter guides? That is the 64,000 question. If you think about it, when waiting for a bite, you will often have the rod either stationary or only moving very slowly.
Having said that, I personally would have a very difficult time to detect the bite of a fish with guides weighing so much or another rod with a weight that is 1.2 times the weight of the first guides.

But, all fisher folks are different.

So, build two identical guides with identical reels and line. Then, have the rods different only by the guides on the rod. Fish them back and forth and I am doubtful that you will be able to FEEL a difference in the bite of a fish.

I suspect that you MIGHT feel a slight difference in rod action or casting, but I doubt if you would feel a difference in the bite feel.

Roger

Thanks Roger. I've read the article you linked. I like it too. If you haven't tried this stile and you fish nymphs sometimes you should give it a try. It will be amazing the way you increase your captures. And remenber that better in fast waters, where fish doesn't see what are eating. Thanks.

Jose,
The rod will respond quicker on the hookset and provide a lot more "feel" if protecting light tippet.
The reduction in inertia will contribute to the rod seeming lighter to cast and more sensitive to the changes in direction fighting the fish.
Measured weight will not be discernibly lighter but the inertia of weight on the rod is based on the position of the weight.
As an experiment tape the weight of your complete guide train at the blank where the stripper will be located.
Give the rod a waggle.
Relocate the weight to the rod mid point.
Repeat waggle
Relocate the weight 4" from the rod tip.
Repeat waggle.
The weight in all cases is the same. The response difference is enormous.
Weight placed at the tip of a 10' rod is 100 times more important then weight placed at 1'
One hundred grams at 1' feels like one gram at 10' and the rod blank will show the results.
Now most guides don't weigh 1 gram the insert guides weigh approx .15 grams compared to a titanium wire at .08 grams.
Build the rod you want, just giving some friendly advice on how to build a rod that casts easier and catches more fish for a more enjoyable experience.

Eugene Moore

Wow, thanks Eugene. This is the advice i was looking for. Recoil RSF will be without doubt!!!
Yo sounds like and experiment rodbuilder. What is your choice in titanium guides? The ESN has the guide chart in Sage's blog, should use it or you think could better use other? In Spain when nymph fishing we put allways another "extra guide" between the last guide and the cork grip because we use extra large leaders and the line is kept in the reel. The extra guide is for avoid loose nylon between the reel and the last guide. Should use another stripping guide or relocate one guide more? Sorry for the questions!! and lot of thanks.

Jose,
Generally I use 2 "strippers"
In your case for a 3 weight I'd probably go with a 10 followed by an 8 both double foot with inserts.
This would be followed by #3 snakes probably 2
Then #2 single foot steel probably 3
Finishing with the #1 light wire titanium single foots to the tip probably 3
What is your anticipated distance between reel seat and rod tip and the tippet size you normally use.
Also blank tip dia. I'll normally set one less guide than normal for my own rods.
I'll work up a tentative guide placement location with sizing.

Eugene Moore