My HM-MB873, med hvy- fast act, rod broke 3 inches from the tip, is this repairable? do I put a sleeve on the outside or do I put a piece of graphite or fiberglass, in the inside with rod bond then wrap it and epoxy it? Please help, I had just bought this rod, I was casting a crankbait with the other rod, and the crankbait caught the other rod, and when i wipped the crankbait in the cast, the treble hooks got a hold of the tip of the rod and threw the rod in the water, when i picked up the rod I noticed the tip was broke, what suprised me is that it looks like someone took a knife or a pair of cutters and cleanly snipped the end off. if it can't be repaired I am going to just salvage the parts for the next build. Thanks.

You would almost certainly have to oversleeve it (with glass). Although a bit difficult, it can be done - see the repair article in the library here.

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I think I will just try to salvage the rod components, I know how to get the guides off, but the reel seat and the butt end I have no idea, any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

Lorenzo,

In your case, the simplest thing to do would be to trim off about two feet of rod blank.
Then, pick up another similar blank and trim the new blank off so that the new blank would fit nicely over the existing blank.

If you picked up the identical blank, you could cut the rod in about 1/2 or there abouts and do the same thing. i.e. essentially add a new tip section to the existing butt section. This would save you the cost, expense and labor of building the butt section, grips and reel seat.

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You are in the right mind set though. The top couple inches of any rod is really a critical part of the rod with overall rod performance and user satisfaction.
I have seen so many cases where 2 or 3 inches have been broken off of the tips of rods and then a new tip is simply put on the blunt end of the broken rod. Talk about a pretty poor pool cue.

For your particular situation, I have gone both ways. i.e. I have done a repair, and I have also cut off more of the rod and simply put a new tip section back on the rod.

For the case of repairing a blank, I always use both in inner sleeve as well as an outer sleeve.
In spite of what others have mentioned, I normally use piano wire for the inner sleeve of finer tipped rods that need repair. For finer tipped rods, it is tough to find a section that will nicely fit inside the rod. In the case of your rod, you might find a light action fiberglass ice fishing blank that would have a suitable blank diameter that might work as an inner sleeve.
Then, whenever possible I will use a fiberglass outer sleeve.
The reason that I use the piano wire inner sleeve for finer tipped rods is that I can get just the right size piano wire to nicely fit on the inside of the tip section, and the amount of bend for that size wire is generally a perfect match for the blank.
When I do the outer sleeve, I get the outer sleeve to be a nice fit for both ends of the repair, and then after trimming to length, I will chuck the outer sleeve into a drill and will use a belt sander to thin out the outer sleeve. I have found that for the outer sleeve, you can normally use a relatively thin cross section sleeve and still have adequate strength for the repair of the tip. If, I can combine the outer sleeve with a guide on the outer sleeve, the repair blends nicely into the rod blank.

For example on your rod, I am guessing that you first guide down from the tip, if it is a casting rod is likely to be about 3-4 inches from the tip. If so, I would take off that guide, then do the inner sleeve, and outer sleeve and use 5 minute epoxy to glue the sections together. Then I would rewrap the guide, and also put a short wrap at the tip of the repair outer sleeve, coat, let dry and go fishing.

Take care
REW

with the rod shortened by like 4 or 5 inches from the tip would it be a faster action rod? I was thinking about just putting a tip on the rod, it would be a stiffer rod, I would think to be used for like pitching heavy jigs into thick cover, but thats just because I don't really feel like doing the repair,I still got to make up my mind.

Lorenzo. If it were my rod , I would put a tip on it and use it.
It will be a little slower in action but the power will still be there. You might be surprised at how little difference you will see.
The first 3 inches bends very little on any rod. When the rod is loaded about half way , the first 6 or 8 inches, at least,,,, straightens out. So, as far as fighting a fish you will not see difference. The difference will be in the casting. It will not load as easily as it did before you broke it.
Glue a tip on it and try it out. Let us know what you find out.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

Thats what I decided to do, I just talked to my fishing buddy, and he thinks it would work out by just putting a tip on the rod, he's been wanting a slower stiffer rod, so i might just give him this one for his birthday, I'll let you know how it casts and all, I got to try it out myself after the tip is on, then Ill let him have it,lol!! Tight lines

If you sleeve the tip and replace the top 3 inches wouldn't it change the action of that section of the rod?

Robert,
Not necessarily if you chose the sleeve and tip section correctly.
That is why when you repair a rod, that you do your homework, and select and either use and or modify the components correctly to avoid a change in the rod action.

Certainly, if done incorrectly, it is very easy to change the tip into a very stiff non moving part of the rod - which you very much want to avoid.

But, if done correctly, there will be little to no change in action from the original blank.

Good luck
Roger

p.s.
Lorenzo,
Before putting a new tip on the rod, just go fishing with the rod the way that it is. I assume that with 3 inches broken off of the tip, that the first guide is quite close to the current tip. If so, just take the rod as is and see how it fishes. I am guessing that you aren't going to be terribly happy with the rod. If you find that to be the case, you can go ahead with your repair on the tip without having done anything with the tip.
By the way, I assume that you still have the piece of rod blank that was broken from the rod, so that it can be put back together?
Any time that I repair a rod, I much prefer to use the broken pieces and put the pieces back together - jagged or smooth. As soon as you begin to trim either end of a broken section, you begin to put different diameters on each section of the break.

Thanks for all the help, But I just decided to put a tip on it and get done with it, to me it doesn't seem like that much of a difference, it is just a little more faster like an extra fast action rod, I am sure my buddy will like it, I have decided to give it to him for a birthday present at the end of this month. Tight lines!

I broke the tip of a new build on a HM MHX rod and after cutting the next 4 in off the tip for mud hole to see, I was left with a six ft or less rod [ I',ve never measured it] ... I removed several guides, put on a new tip , respaced the guides I removed ,and made me the best 6 ft spinning rod I've ever seem .. Works great for skipping baits under tree limbs,docks, barges .You name it ... also throws cranks great..Fast becoming my all time favorite rod.. Really works great
Ken
PS I just went and checked my blank rating HM MB872. Mine was med,not med heavy.. but the same blank



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/07/2011 12:54PM by Ken Blevins.