Looking for advice!

I've built about 12 rods in the last year and have always used ProKote thread finish from Mudhole. It's great stuff, but it takes 3-4 days to harden reasonably and I usually wait at least a week before use. Still, I like it, and am very familiar with how it works.

I am leaving for Alaska in 7 days. Between now and then, I need to complete a rod for one of my fishing partners, and need to have it ready to fish Sept 1. The problem is, I don't even have the blank yet. That should arrive this afternoon. I have read here on the forum that Flex Coat can be done in 1 coat (ProKote is 2-3) and it hardens enough for use in a day or two. Does this sound about right? If so, the schedule will work. Still, quality first, and if 2 coats is better, or even if sticking with the ProKote is better, I'll make do.

I feel like the only rod builder who has never used Flex Coat, but are there any tips or pitfalls?

I read it hardens fast-should I do the rod in 2 batches?

Is one coat coverage going to look "finished"?

Can I use the rod 48 hours after coating, or should it wait another day or two? No time to wait my usual week.

I have limited options, but I have on hand Prokote, FlexCoat , and Flex Coat Lite.

Appreciate any advice from the experienced guys here.

Thanks,

Drew

How quickly an epoxy sets and cures depends a great deal upon how warm the temperature where you're working on the rod is. If you want your Pro-Kote to cure faster, apply the finish, allow the epoxy to set and then place the rod in a very warm area (attic for instance). This will greatly speed the time it takes to reach a hard cure.

At room temperature, Flex Coat is going to give you about 30 to 40 minutes of pot life. Since it only takes a few minutes to finish a rod, I doubt you would need to do the rod in two batches, although you certainly could if you like. From there, it's going to cure just like Pro-Kote. The warmer the area where you set the rod, the more quickly it will reach a hard cure.

I still wouldn't fish any rod for at least 48 hours after the finish had been applied. 72 hours is even better.

............

I think most rod builders know this but i have found that the open time on the flex-cote (other epoxy as well) is longer if you can get the heat away from the mix. I normally make a "cup" out of aluminum foil and get a long pot life than using a paper cup. I leave the rod in a 70 degree room for 24 hours and it is good to go.

Quinn

I had considered letting the finish set up and then placing the rod in my car that sits out in the sun. It would likely keep it at 130F+ or so most of the day. I don't know if that's too hot or not.

30 minutes of pot life should be fine-I can usually finish all of the wraps in 10-15 minutes or so working quickly. My procedure is to mix in a shot glass, then pour onto a shallow aluminum bowl (bottom of a Coke can) and then apply.

Quinn-you think fishing 24 hours after finishing is kosher? I might be able to squeeze out 48 hours.

If you do not have any of your materials - well First get the handle done

Check the blank and if it has a bend make the CURVE GO UP

You can use 5 min IF you are sure where you put ht handle and seat Scoff the area where they go for a better bond 150 - 220 Clean well Use tape to mark where things will sit

Check at least twice before gluing

While that dries - Prep your guides As smooth as a Baby's -- well you know

Nothing fancy Black thread No CP don't need it For now No Decals Later

Put the guides on with a stock spacing -- Static test and adjust

Once wrapped - Adjusted of course - a fast turning wrapper will hold more finish High build

JUST CHECK your work Have read because of being in a hurry guides don't line up with the seat ETC>

Bill - willierods.com

I can't speak to your specific situation. I check the finish on the wraps. If it is not tacky then i use it. I have been in your situation more than once and fished the rod 24 hours after applying the top coat. Strenght is not the issue.

Quinn

There several ways to speed up the cure and most involve heat. First mix the epoxy in a container as normal and pour it into a container with the right "aspect ratio". You know if you pour it out on foil it lasts longer. Pour it in a test tube and it cures faster. If a mix normally gives you 30 minutes, and you only need fifteen, then let it sit in the test tube for fifteen minutes. You can perheat the epoxy before mixing in hot water. You can raise the temp in your room or maybe work outside. You can preheat the guide wraps with a heat gun/blow dryer.

Bottom line is there are things you can do before you apply the epoxy.

Afterwards use a warming box or at least shine a light bulb on it. I want to say that for every 10 degrees centigrade it cuts the cure rate in half. Putting it in your car is viable.

FWIW I have applied finish in the afternoon and fished the next morning. But then I live in the Miami area and it was over 90 degrees. I'm lucky to get ten minutes working time with threadmaster lite. You shouldn't need three coats. The thicker the coat the faster it sets. You can put some on, let it set a little, and add some more. Get it thick enough, without any sags, all in one application if you can. You should be fine unless you live someplace very cold and are using something very slow setting like aftcote.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Colder temps will give the finish time to LEVEL
If you have enough time after applying the finish

Then just let it sit Do.not play with it It will level

Bill - willierods.com

I live in a hot place-Sacramento, Ca. Finding warm spots is pretty easy this time of year!

My plan is to try the Flex Coat. It has to be quicker than the alternatives I have available. I'm just hoping that it will build well with just 1 coat on the wraps-that saves nearly a day right there.

The blank just arrived at my house, so I should have the grip done tonight and most of the wraps in the next two evenings.

Thanks for the thoughts and replies.

Drew

I've been using pro kote with one coat seems to be working fine for me. Kinda curios why you would need 3 coats?

Chris Sadler Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I've been using pro kote with one coat seems to be
> working fine for me. Kinda curios why you would
> need 3 coats?

Usually 2 coats, occasionally 3. I put it on very thin and wick away sags. I've been getting really nice results, and am hesitant to deviate! Still, you're right, I may be making more trouble for myself than I need to! I'm really hoping I can get away with 1 thicker Flex Coat application.

Got the above rod in question started-handle and seat are epoxied in place with Rod Bond, the tip is on with 5minute epoxy. I hope to do most of the guides tomorrow.

Drew

Drew -

You definitely figured it out. The "Easy Bake Oven" method DOES involve summer temperatures, bright sun and an available vehicle. Finish the rod as you normally would, with your usual finish. Allow it to cure indoors until it is completely tack-free ... firm to the touch. Put it into the car in a nice toasty, sunny spot and roll all the windows up. At that point, you have the best little baking oven in the industry ... unless you need to go to the store. Do make sure that nothing is touching the wraps. The heat in the car WILL bake the finish in record time, but it won't hurt anything else. Temperatures have to reach WAY over "summer car temperatures" before anything even begins to remotely happen to the blank materials.

As a note ... if you are happy with your current finish, don't change. One of the biggest mistakes in rod building is not being consistent in your methodology. Don't fix what isn't broke.

Jim -



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/25/2011 06:02AM by Jim Gamble.

My old stand-by is the use of a cheap "ceramic" style heater you can buy down at the local WallyStore. After applying your epoxy just set it to "dry" and flick on the little heater in your drying room. It helps to do this in a small room or enclosed space. You do need to be relatively sure the room is not dusty as these heaters have a fan and you don't want that fan blowing dust around. I used to do my finishing in my washer/dryer utility room. I would apply epoxy, set the rod in the dryer, turn the heater on, and walk away closing the door behind me. I could reapply another coat of finish in well less than 12 hours (I don't remember exactly how long I waited, but I could easily do two coats a day if needed). Once your finish work is done you could just leave the rod in the room with the heater and let it go for a couple of days. If I set the heater on high, I guarantee that the little room I used got well above 100 degrees. On low it was probably around the 100 mark. This certainly speeds up the process.

Follow - up

The rod is on the dryer as we speak.

I spent a good part of the day yesterday wrapping the guides, applying the decal (custom decal from Mudhole-worked well). First coat of finish went on last night, and second and final coat went on this morning. It will sit on the dryer until I get home from work at 11pm tonight. First rod I've done all in 1 day.

I took the advice here and used what I am used to and glad I did. It takes a while to get the decal and associated wraps properly covered and the proKote with the longer half life was perfect for this.

Some details:

Batson XST 908-4 blank - second rod on this blank. Excellent blank imho. I should mention that Carol at Utmost went out of her way to get me the blank in a day. Much appreciated.

Alps reel seat

Alps LXN strippers

Batson Chrome plated 316 snakes-very nice and consistent chrome finish, but despite what they say, the feet still need to be filed!.

Gudebrod Garnet wraps with Gudebrod silver metallic accents.

ProKote finish, no CP

Thanks for the help and wise words here gents. Done ahead of schedule! Going to "bake" it tomorrow in one of my Land Cruisers. LOL


Drew