Has anyone sprayed permagloss or Lumiseal with a Preval aerosol sprayer? I am thinking of giving it a shot on a painted blank for a smother finish. Just wanted to get some feedback first. I have never used permagloss, but I would think Lumiseal would need to be thinned before spraying.

thanks,
Thomas

If you think it, you'll have trouble. And if you don't thin it, you'll have a heck of a time getting it to work in a sprayer. The sad fact is, these products were never intended to be used in a spray gun device.

Experiment if you wish, but use some scrap blank pieces to coat. You don't want to spray your first run stuff before you know how the stuff reacts in a spray gun.

...............

Don't think any one has tried because of the speed it sets up

If you can slow down the set time with maybe a slow thinner or reducer maybe ones that are used in the 2 stage clears ?????

Bill - willierods.com

A few months back it was mentioned on this board that Deft water based urethane may work for some folks.
As a CP replacement when doing feather work and possibly as a thread coating.
Especially for those with sensitivity to epoxy or do not like the fumes from PG and Lumiseal.
Shipping is $25 so total cost for a quart is around $50 but if you are willing to see if it works for you, give it a try.
It also comes in an aerosol can at around $5 at most hardware stores if you are sure you want to try that.
I have a few scraps etc i have coated and left in the Memphis sun for over one month at temps around 110 to 115. No yellowing yet compared to the ones kept indoors.
I have 4 rods i used it on as an epoxy replacement and am testing out in the Mississippi river oxbows(A VERY harsh environment.). Guides seem to sit tighter than CP plus epoxy. Not sure how to objectively measure that yet though.

Here are Ralph's comments on spraying PermaGloss (Lumaseal has the same base product in it):


Re: Thinning Permagloss
Posted by: Ralph O'Quinn
Date: May 26, 2006 12:17PM

Don't ever try to thin Permagloss-- if you don't pay for it at the time of thinning, you will pay for it some place down the line. It is in its optimum solids content as it is packaged. Even if you thin with xylene, you can't help but introduce some moisture. Spraying right out of the bottle can be done satisfactorily with even the modest low pressure 'ready to wear' guns. However I have never seen an application that spraying made any improvement over wiping or dipping or brushing.
Ralph

I remember a discussion a while back (think it was here) about the best method to PG to an entire blank. The gist of it was basically that
spraying was more trouble than it was worth, and it was recommended to use the white foam triangles used for applying
cosmetics rather than a regular bristle or foam brush.

You can get a very fine smooth finish with either product if done by wiping properly, which means fast and smotthly flowing on the right amount of finish. It is best to practice first on blank scraps.

Well ... You Asked !

I was wondering when some one was going to ask this question. This may be long winded. I Have developed a application process using PG in a spray process. I have tested this extensively and I now use it on all my rod applications. In fact the pictures of all the rods on my site are done with this application process. When I did my first two builds I used PG for my finish application and used the brush application method, with less than satisfactory results on the finish. Now me being an automotive painter in my past endeavors, I used my knowledge to developed this application system to get a finish that would match or be equivalent to the rods you see being sold at the stores or from our mass producing counterparts.

I suppose sharing this would be sort of a trade secrete in my part, I have discussed this application method I developed with another builder from this site and he was very excited to here about what I came up with. You can spray PG and you can thin it for this process. I use an Air brush to apply my finish to the blank. I can do almost any color I want using color pigments in my PG, from translucent to a solid color base. I have yet to test other color schemes but so far I have not ran into any major (stop) issues. To do a complete blank takes about 45 min to shoot after prep time, the results are what I call an OEM finish as we say it in the automotive world. I think I will just keep this short and say yes this has been tried and yes it dose work with a 100% success rate! Its how I apply the finish to my builds.

Now Tom K made a good point some products were not intended to use in certain application methods and he is certainly correct in his assessment! You have to experiment and test to get what you desire as I have done here to get the results I wanted in my finish application. I wanted to be able to get that finish look without having to take it to a professional painter or pay another to get the results I am looking for. If you wish to know more about my process email me and I would be happy to share the details with you!

Have a great day Gents and Ladies !

Rick H.

rwheil@msn.com

Website
[www.facebook.com]
[home.comcast.net]

I have to admit when I first read this thread I wondered why you couldnt spray PG.... I have not tried it, but I have yet to find a coating that when mixed with the correct reducer was not able to be sprayed...

Heck a long time ago I thinned silicone rubber and sprayed it to encase and object... I didnt think it would work but it sure enough did...

Rick Heil Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Well ... You Asked !
>
> I was wondering when some one was going to ask
> this question. This may be long winded. I Have
> developed a application process using PG in a
> spray process. I have tested this extensively and
> I now use it on all my rod applications. In fact
> the pictures of all the rods on my site are done
> with this application process. When I did my first
> two builds I used PG for my finish application and
> used the brush application method, with less than
> satisfactory results on the finish. Now me being
> an automotive painter in my past endeavors, I used
> my knowledge to developed this application system
> to get a finish that would match or be equivalent
> to the rods you see being sold at the stores or
> from our mass producing counterparts.
>
> I suppose sharing this would be sort of a trade
> secrete in my part, I have discussed this
> application method I developed with another
> builder from this site and he was very excited to
> here about what I came up with. You can spray PG
> and you can thin it for this process. I use an Air
> brush to apply my finish to the blank. I can do
> almost any color I want using color pigments in my
> PG, from translucent to a solid color base. I have
> yet to test other color schemes but so far I have
> not ran into any major (stop) issues. To do a
> complete blank takes about 45 min to shoot after
> prep time, the results are what I call an OEM
> finish as we say it in the automotive world. I
> think I will just keep this short and say yes this
> has been tried and yes it dose work with a 100%
> success rate! Its how I apply the finish to my
> builds.
>
> Now Tom K made a good point some products were not
> intended to use in certain application methods and
> he is certainly correct in his assessment! You
> have to experiment and test to get what you desire
> as I have done here to get the results I wanted in
> my finish application. I wanted to be able to get
> that finish look without having to take it to a
> professional painter or pay another to get the
> results I am looking for. If you wish to know more
> about my process email me and I would be happy to
> share the details with you!
>
> Have a great day Gents and Ladies !

I do have a quick question.... Since you are an auto painter why dont you just spray auto paint / clear???? Just curious

Hello Casey,

To answer your question, I don't have those tools any-longer and the access to a adequate shop to handle over spray and the chemical hazards that go with automotive paints. They are very volatile to the nervous system VOC is extremely dangerous not to mention the expense in guns, air system, filtration and many other aspects that are not cost effective in painting a blank. For some one that is already doing it and has the set up ....yes it would be easy to prep and hang a blank and shoot it in 15 min. My application method is extremely small scale, almost no residual over spray and tools and clean up is cost effective for the results I am obtaining. You can do this in your living room in fact with an Air brush.

To all of you who have responded to me in emails! I received quite a few emails wanting a write up of my application procedure. I am currently working on that and will get back to you ASAP ... I just assumed there were allot of folks out there who had already tried this and were doing it already! I guess I was wrong. Hang in there I will have it done today sometime. Have a good day folks!

Rick H.

rwheil@msn.com

Website
[www.facebook.com]
[home.comcast.net]

Tom: Would this be something you are interested in publishing?

Chris Richer
Iroquois ON