I don't want the thread to show on the rod. I want the guides to look like thy are just sitting on the rod with no thread just the clear finish. Any ideas? I was thinking white silk and no CP, is that the way to go or is there a better way.

I've never tried it but I seem to remember an article about threadless wraps from a while back. Maybe someone with a better memory will chime in on this one.
But OO silk and no CP will get you there as well.

I have been playing around with some white pearl thread...it's almost translucent without CP and after epoxy...i wanted something similar to you, but with the pearl effect under the epoxy.

RodMaker Volume 9 #6 - Threadless Guide Wraps [www.rodmakermagazine.com]

.............

When you do a clear or threadless wrap, do you skip guide prep, or do you repaint guide feet after prepping?

This link may be helpful to you:

[www.rodbuildingforum.com]

I do this type of wrap with following process: prep guides as normal (if black touch up with a sharpie) wrap with Pearsall's white Gossamer thread, apply first coat of epoxy thinned to water like consistency, allow to cure for 2 days, apply final coat of regular epoxy.

Mine have turned out crystal clear, and have even had some refuse to believe I used thread.

Gossamer or Naples white silk. Two-part epoxy, first coat thinned, second coat uncut. Do test wraps to learn the process.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Here's a link to the thread ... [www.jsflyfishing.com]

Thanks for all the info. That is the look I want the rod to have.

Follow-up question.... What is the preferred solvent with which to thin 2part epoxy?

Most epoxy formulators don't recommend thinning a solids based epoxy - it can change certain long term characteristics of the product. However, if you must, you want a highly volatile solvent that will evaporate and leave the mix quickly. Acetone is a good one in that regard,

.............

I use denatured alcohol, thats why I let it cure 2 days as it slows down the curing.

What is the process for adding the acetone to the epoxy?

Mix the epoxy and then add the acetone?

Or, add the acetone to either the resin or hardener and then mix the two parts?

Thanks in advance,
Don

Don Becker

Don -

I use DNA, just like Phil. I like the slow cure ... it allows good penetration of the silk fibers and I keep it on my bench all the time. I also let it cure for a couple of days before applying the second coat (uncut) to finish the rod. I use a motorized mixer to blend. I allow the epoxy to blend for 3 minutes, add the DNA and mix for two more. That works for me, so I don't change it. Other methods may work just fine as well.

Jim -

Thanks Jim. I appreciate your help.

Don

Don Becker



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/07/2011 03:04AM by Donald Becker.