So what materials are out there to paint an entire rod with and what are you guys using for clear????

Seems like I read somewhere on here that people were using some sort of urethane? Has anyone tried automotive base / clear system. If im not mistaken the base / clear systems is also urethane.

Thanks

Hi Casey,
I'm getting mine done with two pack automotive clears and it's polyurethane. Works well. Same stuff for colour with a coat of clears on top.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

Duplicolor acrylic enamal clear in a spray can has been working well although there are a few tricks to it.

Hal Lambert Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Duplicolor acrylic enamal clear in a spray can has
> been working well although there are a few tricks
> to it.

WOW I never would have believed anything from DupliColor would have held up. I was worried that a true auto clear could crack under an extreme bend but if DupliColor doesnt I feel a true auto clear should be fine..

Unless others have suggestions.

For an easy 2K auto ureathane clear that anyone can spray do a Google search for "2K auto clear" It comes in a spray rattle can (YES IT'S A 2 PART CLEAR) and is great for guys who only spray one rod as year. I would say you can get 2 rods 7' long painted with one can. You MUST wear a respirator type mask!! This is the best rod finish short of using pro spray equipment or having acess to the blank factorys dip method and ovens. The new paint finishes have the ability to flex and with all the plastic car parts today it's very rare that you need flex additive.. which I hate BTW...

Dupicolor clear will work but it will scratch off easy after a time and maybe it's just me but I would never paint a customers rod with an 1k product. I have used Permagloss though it's not super easy to work with it is tough and doesn't yellow. I have used the rattle can clear 2K on blanks, grips and many other projects it works great and is very high gloss. I have switched to pro spray equipment only due to I paint alot and the cost is much cheaper.

Spraying a blank sounds easy and while it's not rocket science.. Painting a round object is not a cut and dry. It requires a certain touch to not get it to heavy in one spot and light in another. The over lap of the spray on a tube is very narrow due to the shape of the object. Trust me! I'm looking for someone to make a spray tip that is a semi circle as it would be much easier and quicker.

Always clean the blank with paint prep or alcohol at least a 1/2 hour before you spray! And try to not paint when it is humid or very hot and humid as the finish can cloud or will not adhere as well due to trapped moisture or at very least will take a long time to set up and dust will find the surface!! Just an FYI!!

Also, if you ever try using PlastiKote, be careful. It is very thick right out of the can. You have to make several super light coats to get the desired effect. It is flexible and nice, it's just a little difficult to use IMO.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

Well it looks like im in business as I already am very experienced spraying auto paint and have all the equip setting in my garage. I have restored cars in the past so im pretty much set up for spraying whatever.

Im very glad to hear I can spray auto paint without worry.

Thanks everyone

Well it looks like im in business as I already am very experienced spraying auto paint and have all the equip setting in my garage. I have restored cars in the past so im pretty much set up for spraying whatever.

Im very glad to hear I can spray auto paint without worry.

Thanks everyone

Sounds like your all set up! I use a HVLP jam gun and my pressure ajustment will vary depending on what I'm shooting but is generally 10-14psi.

Are you all using any of the adhesion promoters when you spray. Ive used some in the past for different projects and had good success.


Thanks

I have used AP but I haven't noticed any difference! I have also used some one part colors for airbrush and that is when I'll use the AP but as said if it helps or not I can't say. The biggest problem I have had is humidity and the problem won't show it self sometimes for a while. Problems like delamination of the clear from the color due to trapping mostiure under the finish!! Good prep like a wet sand (600 or 800 grit) between color and clear is also somerthing I do now.

So what kind of paint are you using if you are wet sanding prior to the clear. Most base clear / systems require you clear the part within a certain amount of time. This way the clear is sprayed over a "green" base and will actually blend into the base coat. Most mfgs say to never sand a base coat prior to clearing. Just curious what brands / types you are using

thanks