I still cannot get how you guys that apply the epoxy in a thin coat, I have tried to wipe excess, and tried just to apply little as possible, but always have to apply more cause of some spots that didn' get enough or none at all, maybe it is just me, it always comes out lopsided or like a football shaped epoxy job, lol! some are really bad but I had to do them over again. Any suggestions will be appreciated, Thanks.

I use 2 coats. The first coat is a lite brand of epoxy and the second is a regular or high build. On the first coat I use a stiff bristle brush and apply it to the guides with the rod turning. I apply it lightly, just enough to make it wet with no build up. I just want it to soak into the threads. On the first coat I can see the threads clearly, they just look wet, as they would when you put CP on them. On the butt wrap I apply it with the rod stationary and turn the rod by hand while applying from left to right. Then, while the rod is still stationary, I use a small brush to apply it to the back side of the guides and anywhere else I cant reach properly while the rod is turning. On my second coat, using high build, I allow the epoxy to flow off the brush or spatula while just slightly touching the thread. I let the rod turn and check for bubbles, bumps and excess. If there is excess I use a brush with no epoxy on it and touch the high spots allowing the epoxy to flow back into the brush. I wipe the brush on a coffee filter and go to the next high spot or excess spot. I don't worry about trying to do it all in one coat. If there are bubbles, I use a straw and blow through it to bust the bubbles or use a heat gun on low. Hope this helps.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

Lorenzo,
Whenever I apply epoxy - I use the thick finish. I just prefer it so that I can normally finish a rod in one coat. Once in a while I will do a 2nd coat but not often.

I use my power wrapper, and apply it while quickly turning the rod. Typically at speeds up to 200 rpm.
I go from one end of the rod to the other end, to get the finish quickly applied to the rod with clean edges and adequate epoxy. I never worry about whether I have too much finish on the guide or wrap, just make sure that I have enough for good coverage.

I will then slow down the rod and go over each wrap checking and rechecking. If bubbles or uneven areas are noted, I will use a bit of gentle heat to flow out the epoxy - stop the rod, and let any excess drip to be picked up with the brush.

I continue to do this back to the first wrap.

Then, I go back to the first guide, double checking for dry spots or excess. If I notice a dry spot, I little dab of finish will take care of it. If I notice excess, I brush it off. I always do all of my finish application in very bright light with good magnification to be able to see any defects.

I let the rod turn for another two or three minutes to be sure that the finish is stable and then transfer to the 10 rpm dryer and move on to the next rod.

Generally the total finish application, check, recheck, and final transfer tot he dryer is something like 4-5 minutes.

Be safe

Roger

Thanks for all the help, I will have to wait and see how my first couple of coats on the guides, then I will see wait needs to be done acccording to what you guys have wrote, thanks again.

Apply with a stiffer brush.

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I think i got it now, a stiffer brush and i apply it by hand turning so i can stop it when i need to, and check for sags , then do the 180 turn to check, the levelness, and when it started to set, i start the dryer turning , workin out good so far, I got it turning on the dryer.I maynot give it another coat, it looks good so far, but will wait to see in about 4 to 6 hours, Thanks.

Just don't apply so much. If you're having to check for sags, you're applying way too much.

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It s a dark art!! Sometimes mine look great and other times, I get lumps and bumps!! I am confused as to how relatively inexpensive (some may even say cheap) mass produced rods have perfect epoxy jobs. In pareticular, the label panels which are often long (6-8inches 150-200mm) are flawless and perfecly level.

Thats what i am practicing on doing, how to apply less, this time I had 2 sags which were on the smaller guides towards the tip, seems like those are the hardest to get ot look good.

It is really simple to avoid sags. Keep and eye on the guides as they are drying. If you notice any sagging at all, just hit the guide with a touch of heat, brush off the dab with a brush and it is good to go.

Roger

I put my finish on a fast turner When all are covered then I stop the turner. Put the guides Left or Right Pointing down and finish will cover the ring With them say left check for drips Whip them off. Turn 180 4-6 times checking. Then set the turner slow

Butt wraps I do buy them self

You need Good Light to see them well

Bill - willierods.com

get a work lamp (5$ metal cone looking jobs with a clamp) and 60 watt bulb (not a high-efficiency one). I clamp mine onto a stand so that it sits about 12" away from the wrap or label i'm covering. It keeps the epoxy nice and warm and lets it flow very nicely. I can get full coverage with TM light and still have threads showing after 2 coats just to give you an idea of how thin it will go. The extra heat will also cause it to sag almost immediately.

My typical process is to put on 1 very thin coat fast with the power wrapper just to get coverage. Then I go back and and put about twice as much on. I wick off any sags right then and there and use lateral brush strokes ( across the wrap not around it) to even out the rest and make sure there is enough epoxy to fully coat the whole area. Then put it straight on the dryer and don't worry about it until the next day. It takes some practice, but works great on short wraps and guides. Doing on longer sections is a bit more challenging - i still do it but if you do 3 very thin coats, they will be about perfect every time.

Regards,
-Justin

That sounds like a very thin coat, I finally got it to where I can have it thin but I don't know if it is as thin as what you do, and how about getting epoxy in those very small micros, when it is on the dryer, I always get at least 2 that getrs coated, but I get a toothpick and alcohol and clear it out. Have a good one.

Roger, i really hope you don't use your dryer at 200rpm like you say you do...!!!! the epoxy would be splattered on the ceiling and back wall at that rate......im thinking you set it about 20rpm maybe...i only use 12 and works great ...for me....