So I found out the hard way PG does not work with decals. I put a decal om from mudhole and added PG over the top without CP. The decal started to disapear like a majic trick. The sad part is I needed to finish this rod by the end of the week and I don't do my own decals yet. What is the trick to thesde decals I hate them they don't come out perfect like I want them to. How do I make them like it's just the lettering on the rod it's realy driving me insane. I'm about to just take a pen and write it on the rod. I can't get it as clear as I want on the edges. This is the hardest part of building I have come across so what's the deal. I usualy add CP to my decals but even that hasn't worked. I'm kind of drove about the situation so any help will be greatly appreciated.

I'm assuming you haven't read any of the articles in RodMaker on making and applying decals?

You cannot put a finish with a hot solvent like PG directly on the surface of a decal. Epoxy is different as it contains no solvents. Even then, however, a smooth decal surface may repel the epoxy to some degree. For this reason you need to put a coat of CP on first.

Getting clear edges was covered in the articles. Decal Connection has an excellent instruction sheet on their website you should read. It explains how to make sure your decals come out perfectly clear, edges and all.

..............

The article I mentioned on the DC website is listed under their Technical Support menu and titled, the Art of Applying Decals. I think it will solve most if not all of your issues.

..............

Call Debbie at Decal Connection. The BEST!!!!!!!

I like to spray Krylon UV clear acrylic over the decals to protect them. Whether it's wrong or right, I can't say for sure b/c I've recently just started building, but it has worked so far for me and the handful of builds I've done. I also spray this over any handwritten information I put on to protect it from the epoxy. I haven't had any issues with decals bleeding or handwritting bleeding.

Steven,
even if you write directly on the blank, you will most times need a coat of CP if using PG.
For my tastes: a well written inscription beats a decal every time .
But i use decals because nobody can read my writing, including myself!

Jeremy Reed Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I like to spray Krylon UV clear acrylic over the
> decals to protect them. Whether it's wrong or
> right, I can't say for sure b/c I've recently just
> started building, but it has worked so far for me
> and the handful of builds I've done. I also spray
> this over any handwritten information I put on to
> protect it from the epoxy. I haven't had any
> issues with decals bleeding or handwritting
> bleeding.

I second this opinion!

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

Just because you sign the rods personally doesn't mean that you have to leave decals off. Some of my most attractive rods have the personal inscription along with a decal custom made from a photo that has special meaning to me or the person for whom the rod is made. Split grips are especially nice for this-the area between the grips is space that can be used for a decal all around the blank with a personal signature on one side of it. I always use the Krylon clear acrylic over the decals before installing them. I have not used Permagloss over decals yet, appreciate the reminder that special accomodation is required.

Can't beat a hand inscription. My daughter is an accomplished calligrapher an has always done my personal rods. She created a custom monogram that is included in the inscription as well as all pertinent info. Ends up being very special. Unfortunately for me she relocated to Charleston, SC, now I have to wait until we visit, or spend the $s to mail the rods. I also have had her write on decal material purchased from the decal connection. A metallic ink is used, which I coat directly with epoxy wrap finish. Always good results.

If you are interested in in having her help you, email me and I will put you touch with her.

JLS Custom Rods
Cassadaga, NY



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/28/2011 05:25PM by John Straight.