Hello .

I have some broken rod , and sand paper too ( aluminium oxyde) and was ready .

But recently i discovered the abrasive grit ( silicon carbide ) from size 40 to 1200 ..And i am curious to know if there are some rodbuilder who use handmade reamers built this way ?
I guess epoxy is used to coat the grit on the tapered blank ?

This could make better files?( In fact, reamers with SIC would prove useful for other use other than cork and arbor.)

Thanks .

D.

you can use epoxy, but i would use contact cement (weldwood)

Contact cement on both surfaces. Let sit for 15 minutes. Don't use the abrasive grit because it comes off too easy and will embed inside cork while reaming. Use the strip of aluminum oxide sanding belt leaving about 1/4 inch in between spirals. I did mine on 18" blank.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

Didier,
Flex Coat web site has an instructional video on how to make a reamer with emery cloth, sandpaper,etc
[www.flexcoat.com]
Good luck

"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble.It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." Mark Twain
John in Wethersfield, CT

Great video. I highly recommend it.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

A good reamer is worth its weight in gold. Practice making a few and you'll hit on one.

The 2 that I made, I left the grip on. I don't chuck them in a so the rod grip really helps. If done right, they cut really fast and give you taper at the same time.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

I sent you an e-mail with a picture of mine.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

The abrasive grit can cost more than its worth. as Dave said the grits may come loose and hang up in the cork. When you dry fit you can scratch the heck out of the blank.


Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/22/2011 05:49PM by Bill Eshelman.

I wish I would have read this thread about 6 hrs. ago. I just made 2 reamers this afternoon using broken rods, 2 part epoxy, and 1/2 inch sandpaper strips, what a pain! next time I'll try the contact cement method, sounds much easier!

The first one I made, I used epoxy and it was a mess. The second one was easy with cc. It works great.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

John,
Pretty simple, grab another piece of blank, make up a few more reamers with cc and sandpaper. No need to wait.

If you need a blank, you can always go to the salvation army, good will, or often your local sporting goods stores has a barrel to pitch in rods that are no longer wanted that can often be had for the simple asking.
Strip off the guides and you have the blank you need.

That is the wonderful thing about rod building. If you don't like it - do it over. If you don't like that one - do it over. If you don't like the 2nd one - do it over.

As the saying goes no shame in making a mistake. The only shame is leaving the mistake without a solved solution.


Good luck
Roger

You can use a belt sander belt to make the strips from. They have very sturdy backing. Cut it across the belt and then you can tear off a strip to glue to your rod piece.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

There is an article on this but I can't find it. I read it last week on here.

Kevin

It's the article called "A new twist on an old tool" in the Library here.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

Didier

I made myself a set of reamers with the loose grit applied to rod blank sections. I used 2 part Devcon epoxy to coat the blank sections and then sprinkled the grit over the rod bond (you may also spread the grit on some newspaper and roll the grit on). I also have a set of dream reamers with the sandpaper strips in a spiral on them. I actually favor the grit style reamers over the dream reamers because they cut a little faster and get the job done a little faster. Either leave the handles on the blank sections or stick a cheap EVA foregrip on each and hand ream only!. I didn't rough up the blank sections before I applied the devcon, so now the epoxy is peeling off the reamers (I also started chucking them in a slow drill and think the heat produced weakened the epoxy). To get any loose grit out of the handle before sliding down the blank to fit, I pull a bottle/tubing brush through the handle to clean it out. Works great for me. I am going to rebuild my grit reamers with a little more attention to detail in the construction process. I also might try some Rod Bond instead of the Devcon. Give it a shot!

Rog

Clean them off or new scrap and go to Mud Hole for the strips. Have made several when I needed them and it cuts well Sand the scrap well I use about 150 grip

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/22/2011 12:00PM by bill boettcher.

Hello .

Thanks everybody .

Well , the scales are tipped on the side of sandpaper !
I would not want to leave loose grains !

So i will first do my reamer with sandpaper .That said, the abrasive grit might be useful however for other use( not rodbuilding) ...i can purchase half a pound for $6 i think...

D.

Don't be fooled buy price and badly scratch a blank

Bill - willierods.com

Didier,

If you build a lot of the same blank, you could also do what the rod production companies do.
i.e. go to a machine shop and have them make you a steel reamer of the right length and dimensions.
The one time cost is high, but it will virtually never wear out.

For the production rod companies that make hundreds of rods per day, that is how they ream their handles.

They have the reamer in a press, so to speak, run the grip in and back and they are done. Total time about 2 seconds.
Of course, when they are using the same reamer for many many handles, the reamer cost per handle is very low.

Also, if you do some checking on the Internet and some of the @#$%& sites, you can often find reamers that are being sold by folks going out of the industry. You can often buy these reamers for only a few $$ each.

I have been able to do this for a fairly large selection of reamers and they care my tool of choice for opening up handles.

Good luck
REW