Okay, I'm all set up and I'm ready to try this thing... read the book, did the research, bought the DVD, and smart enough to know there's no replacement for experience. So the last link in the chain is to get some advice and select a type of line guide.

I'm working on some old steel rods that are in pretty nice shape. One line of thought... is to match the look - which appears to be a 'thicker' sort of stainless guide on the old steel rods. I know they didn't have the options available like they do today, and if plans are to actually use it, then its worth exploring the options.

I'm not really looking to build some super performance rod necessarily. (I don't need titanium.) Just looking for something reasonable and practical. Looks override all in this case I think. Lets face it, while there's no reason not to use them (life's short), most people have these for wallhangers; so in that light the rod's primary function is to look good.

Anyway, I'm not quite sure what to use, not having any experience. So for those that have done allot of this, beyond the looks part of it, Is there any particular brand name or type that you know of that is user-friendly, that maybe doesn't require as much filing, or sits flatter or is more stable, or less likely to twist out of position or alignment, or is in general more cooperative with the process?

I like the idea of using new material for now. I don't want to complicate it any more than necessary by dealing repairs or restoration. I'll have to confess those boat rod guides look pretty cool (and strong), though they're not really for smaller fresh water casting rods as I understand it. But I wouldn't want to intentionally y inhibit performance by putting on a guide that's too stout. Should I go for something more like the original guides? Or.... should I just get one of those '$2.98 for the whole set' packages, put it on a marginal rod, and just get some practice? (Even those actually look pretty neat with the ceramic inserts.) Please give me the short course. Thanks

If you want to go back to original look, then this is about as close as you can get. I have a steel rod and it has this type of guide on it.
[www.mudhole.com]

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

Brent,

JB has the right style; they're as close as you'll get in new guides, and they'll look a lot better than the ceramics. The vintage rods typically used 3 guides plus the tip for a 4 1/2 to 5 ' rod (4 guides for a 5 1/2 ') - the butt guide is usually about 24-26" from the reel. They can all be the same size (8), or you can use a size 8 butt guide and 2 size 6 for the running guides. The PacBay type will require some foot dressing/filing to get a smooth transition; you may need to narrow the foot slightly on the last 2 guides to match the diameter of the rod. If the rod will come out of the handle, take off the handle before you start wrapping - it will be a LOT easier. Traditional wrap finish was spar varnish in about 3 coats - the threads weren't completely filled in as on modern rods\]

I have redone a few of those steel casting rods. They did not use thread but colored wire soldered as as a tie off. I found fly tying micro wire in medium size to work great for that, that is if you wanted to return them as close to original as possible.

I'll tell you what, this site is full of friendly helpful advice from good guys with a library of life experience. You sure know how to make a new guy feel welcome without making the small guy feel small. I sure appreciate all the friendly voices on this site. Most master craftsmen seem to guard their secrets (experience is expensive). But in reality, I suppose there are more rods to restore than there are people to restore them. Thanks to all who have taken on my questions and answered questions I didn't even ask (and needed to). God bless you. This is great information.

To Peter, I'm happy to hear you say that about taking off the handle... I had the same concern - aside from the potential of the rod 'slipping' at the hadle for those rods that are not keyed to the foregrip, I had concerns about applying any kind of torque against a pristine irreplacable grip, or that the 3 tightening screws would 'grind' against the finish of the grip or cork. I haven't worked out any real solution as to exactly how to grip the rod only ... I thought maybe attaching some kind of soft grip drill chuck onto the output shaft of the motor, or maybe just tywraping a short section of tubing or airline onto the motor and the rod?

Dick, that sounds like a good idea on using the fly tying wire to do the wraps... I wonder if a guy could go ahead and use the regular 2-part epoxy over the micro wire at that point instead of solder?

Brent,

Once you've got the handle off, you're left with a male ferrule (metal sleeve) on the rod butt. I use several turns of masking tape over the ferrule to cushion it and to prevent marring the surface - you don't need or want a whole lot of pressure on the ferrule, just enough to prevent slippage while the rod is turning in the dryer.

Although you could use epoxy over the wire and it would probably hold, there won't be anything but that holding the end of the wire down, and you may have problems with getting it smooth and tight. Any brass or copper wire in 24-26 gauge (picture hanging wire from the hardware store) will be soft enough to wrap well and will also take acid core solder well. If you don't want to solder, then I suggest size D or E nylon.

Brent,
I refurbished and old rod a month or so ago. I bought some old style guides, that are "new", just old. I bought 10 sets and only needed to use 1 set. Send me an email of what size and how many you want and we can work something out.
Jeff
jake401@bellsouth.net