Can I do it? How long must I wait before applying flexcoat?

Thanks.

You'll want the PG to be completely free of its solvent. I'd wait a week.

Not to be nosy, but why do you want to do this?

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I've read where the thin permagloss would displace any air in the wrap, and stick the threads.

Is this wrong?

Not necessarily, no - there is nothing wrong with doing this. Just give it enough time to fully dry.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2011 05:09PM by Tom Kirkman.

If you do not use CP and just finish --- Just thin the finish coat it will act like a sealer and being thin will let the bubbles escape .
Common sense - put a straw in and blow bubbles in maple syrup that you put on your pancakes - how long do the bubble take to get to the top and release ?? -- Now try it in say water ( over kill ) but the thinner finish will release the bubbles faster

Prove it to your self

Try on a piece of scrap

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2011 05:11PM by bill boettcher.

Permagloss drys FAST to the touch, and in turn can trap air in and around the guide foot.

Putting thread finish over PG is fine to do but expect to see bubbles form later down the road from the off gassing of the PG. Even letting it dry a week before coating over doesn't stop it. First few times out in the sun and the PG wants to off gas and you'll see these micro bubbles under your finish.

Using a thinner slower drying finish is all you need to do to accomplish what you're wanting.

DR

If you want to accomplish this you can due as Duane said and apply a very thin coat, just enough to wet the threads then with the second coat build it up or even use a high build. Either way is possible but the cure time is what I would look at.

Scratching my head, so , do I thin the flexcoat with acetone for first coat?

Why not just apply Flex Coat and be done with it?

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If you feel the need to thin the finsih, and you really should not need to. I would just gently head it in warm water first. It will decrease the working time a bit but you can get it water thin without having to add anything and risk @#$%& up a nice thread job.

Just use a very thin first coat of finish. I let the finish soak into the thread and make sure all the tunnels are filled in. The I remove most of the finish, when it is dried, you can still see the bumps of the thread. If bubble appear, they are very easy to get rid of with it so thin. Also if they appear after I have let the rod sit overnight, they are easy to take care of. The bubble itself is usually so thin, I just take a razor blade and run it parallel to the blank and slice off the top of the bubble itself. The next coat of finish fills the bubble in and I have no issues wih more bubbles in the second coat.

Gene,
Please read some of the posts with caution.
After a layer of flex coat has cured, bubbles will not come through it, no matter how thin.
If sitting in the sun will cause permagloss to outgas - I would suggest that you let the rod sit in the sun for a while before doing any other finish work.

Summary -
Before applying a coat of finish - just let any base finish be 100% cured, outgassed, etc. before putting anything on top of it and you will be in good shape.

Take care
REW

Roger,

If that post was directed at me, I never said anything went through anything, only that micro bubbles will show up UNDER the finish (in between the PG and the finish)

DR

Not for any thing -- but I have been thinning out my finish for years --- have never had any problems with it . --- I just add several drops of a medium drying acquer thinner

Every thing can be adjusted to suite your needs just be care full

Ask them what will happen ???

Bill - willierods.com