Bought a really cool sheet of Abalone veneer from mudhole. Orange and black swirls. Very beechen color. Went to apply it this weekend (per the sites instructional video) and this stuff (possibly the batch I had) was just a mess. Please let me know if I did anything wrong in setup.

Measured the right size. Cut with blade, took the backing off. Placed it on the rod where I wanted it. Grabbed my rolling stick and heat gun. Put heat on the veneer and took the rolling stick to it. Stuff didnt want to stick at first. Kept at it and the stuff finally started to work onto the rod. Then the backing (?) starts cracking and I have orange pieces falling out of place. Got to the point that it was so bad I just stopped right there and took a blade to it.

Per the video this stuff should react to the heat and roll method and should lay down. I expected some ugliness (prior to wrapping a setting layer over it) but I wasnt prepared for the orange backing cracking out and falling out of place from the clear coat. It cracked to the point I could see the blank underneath.

I'm sure I did something wrong. Any advice? Kinda bummed. Not only about the $10 price tag but the color of this veneer was so cool.

Never used the Mudhole so I cant speak for it but the stuff Angler Envoy now sells is far and above the best. The method is fool proof and the results are beautiful. It may be in the make up of the sheet. I know the stuff I used was in its natural form and not pieces applied to a backing .

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

I'll look into it. I was drawn into this veneer because of the color. They have an instructional video and it worked for them. I probably goofed up somewhere.

Thanks for the info Fred!

Kevin Knox has a new form of abalone out that is very simple to apply. I saw it at his seminar in High Pointe.

Sorry, but right now I`m not sure how to get a hold of him. I`m sure some one out there does and will respond.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

A link to Kevin's veneer gallery ... [www.anglersenvy.com].

You will find contact information on the site as well. I use Kevin's products. I haven't had the first issue, good stuff. Worth the price of admission, IMO.

One of the few decorative things I offer at times is the abalone from Angler's Envy. Kevin pioneered the application and has listened to what folks have said and continued to look for the best product available for this technique. The new stuff is awesome.

No it's not cheap, but if you can do it without messing up that's a no brainer in my book!

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Adam, I've got a couple different types of Ab on hand. Some of the older stuff was less flexible and some amount of cracking was inevitable. The new thin lam stuff is much more user friendly. Still, both the old and new have a "grain" to them. You generally want the grain following the length of the blank. The times I've had trouble like you describe, I was trying to wrap the grain around the blank diameter and no joy.

Haven't tried Kevin's new stuff, but plan to after I use up what I have.

I had the same issues as you with the Heat and Roll stuff. Some patterns/colors would crack more than others, even with heat applied. If you were using a very thin blank, it would often crack no matter how much heat was used. I tried the new stuff TACHY-MOP from Knox and it worked very nicely!

The Tachy MOP can be applied any direction (up the blank, around the blank, on the diagonal) with no issues to a diameter smaller than a pencil. This product has addressed all if the prior issues that the thicker veneer has and has made all of the older application techniques no longer needed or applicable. The Tachy MOP is a godsend and has been along and painful labor of back and forth between people that know only a little english, but the results were worth the 12 months of work. The new source for this veneer has really sent abalone inlays to the next level, not only in appearance, but also in application.

I have a full inventory of the veneer and can send it anywhere, so drop me an email if you are interested.

Kevin

I looked into the new stuff. Anyone know how big those sheets are?

Regarding this veneer, I still have some and really like the color of it. Was hoping I did something wrong that lead to it failing. Sounds like I needed to check the grain (was not aware of that and probably missed it in their video). Tried putting this on a 7' M spinning rod at the split grip section and maybe the blank diameter is not big enough?

As always, appreciate the feedback!

Adam I've put this veneer on to trout ( light ) rods in front of the grip. It is not easy to work with and on small rods it can be all most impossible. I have to say that I have givin up at least once. Sounds to me like there was not enough heat, you must heat it when it is going on to the rod but not to much or it will come apart the same as when it is to cool. Note this veneer will crack but I dont worry about that it looks good under the finsh. You jest have to keep at it . I have noticed that the plastic thread tool works best for me, flat side down on the veneer. Hope this helps
Chris

The sheets that I have from Kevin are 5.5" x 9.5" ... lots to work with. It couldn't be any easier than it is at this point - boiling water, a short wait and apply to the rod. The veneer is thin, but completely transparent with brillant colors. IMO, it is the only stuff to work with. Kevin may not be cheap, but he is easy ... to work with that is.

I have always used the vinegar soak even with Mudholes Abalone veneer. A 3 day soak is about right for me, no boiling. I have some of Kevin's new thinner abalone but have not had a chance to use it yet. I probably will just soak it in vinegar just like the others, it's what works for me. I have left pieces of veneer in vinegar for up to a week with no issues. After that the veneer starts to go from soft to breaking down. I never personally had success with any of the heat methods, boiling included. Good luck.

When I couldnt get it to roll with decent heat I applied more and that sent it into no return land. But as Chris stated maybe its just a learning curve like with everything else. The guy in Mudholes video does it no problem, so its gotta be on my end.

Regarding the new veneer. I'm a little skeptical of putting this in my microwave. I dont have a separate microwave in a shop. Can you just boil this stuff for some time and still get the results?

By the way Anglers Envy was very quick to respond to me on my inquiry. Thank you!

Your mormal microwave is fine. Put the water in tupperware, nuke it for 8 minutes, remove the water from the nuker, drop in your veneer and let it get hot and then wrap it on the rod.

You don't have to actually nuke the veneer, but I do, and its fine.

Kevin

Steve Kolb Wrote:
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> I have always used the vinegar soak even with
> Mudholes Abalone veneer. A 3 day soak is about
> right for me, no boiling. I have some of Kevin's
> new thinner abalone but have not had a chance to
> use it yet. I probably will just soak it in
> vinegar just like the others, it's what works for
> me. I have left pieces of veneer in vinegar for up
> to a week with no issues. After that the veneer
> starts to go from soft to breaking down. I never
> personally had success with any of the heat
> methods, boiling included. Good luck.

No vinegar needed. Especially the 3 day soak with the new veneer. It is certainly overkill with the Tachy MOP. If you can boil water, you can bend this Veneer.

I will be doing an article int he next couple of weeks for Tom and everyone will see how easy this veneer really is. I will also be putting up a video on Youtube in my rodbuilding video section as I have been slammed with requests for the DVD on how to bend it. In reality, I can't justify putting together a video when the process has been simplified so much.

Stay tuned.

Kevin
Angler's Envy Custom Rods

Maybe I missed something? What is "Tachy MOP"? MOP obviously is mother of pearl, what is tachy?

I used the red abalone veneer from mudhole on a St croix ultra light today using the mudhole method...it worked...but it took way longer than their video...but it's probably just because the blank diameter is so tiny that to get the veneer soft enough to roll nicely, it takes time...I couldn't get as clean a line as they get in their video by scraping where the edges meet once it's done, but that's probably just going to take some practice...this was my first try at the veneers though...

TACHY is "tacky" or "sticky"and TACHY as in tachometer or Tachy arrhythmia which means "fast". This is not the same veneer as the thin lam that we used to use.