I am looking for a better way to epoxy a long deco wrap, it is like 35 to 40 mm long or longer, last one i tried to just like glob the epoxy on and it seems like it would not level, maybe to much, but then i tried alot less and it still didn't level off i do not know what is wrong, maybe when i get bubbles those very small ones, i was told that blowing through a straw would help, it does but then when i put the rod on drying mode, it does not seem to level to good, wavy, and, or high on one end then the other, i know i have it leveled cause i level it each time, i am using threadmaster lite and regular. Thank you, for taking time to read this.

Some of my dec wraps are 250-300mm long and they are easy to epoxy. I do better with those than I do with guides.

Mix up a sufficient amount of epoxy(10-12 ml for these long ones), then use a spatula of some type to start laying down finish. I use popsicle sticks. With the rod turning in the dryer, use the spatula to scoop finish onto the work and spread it the long direction of the wrap. I'll usually put a blob down, the spread that length ways with the stick as the rod spins. Then another glob and so on.

When it appears you have enough finish on the wrap, but it's uneven, then reach for your brush. As the rod turns, use your brush in long strokes to spread and even the finish. Usually I find I have too much finish on the piece from the spatula effort, so I also use my brush to wick away excess. I'll usually start brushing from center to the outer edges. Then get a nice wet edge off the end of the wrap. Usually that leaves me with excess now on the ends. Brush that back toward the middle, wicking excess off as you go.

Hopefully that makes sense. Give it a try. I can usually apply and level finish on those long wraps in under 5 minutes. After that, let the epoxy level on it's own. After you've done a couple, you'll get a feel for how much finish to apply.

Using a mixer and this technique, bubbles should be minimal and what few you have you can address in the normal manner that suits you.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/25/2011 04:49AM by Bob Mankin.

Lorenzo I routenly do wraps this size. I would say your problem is your putting too much on. Try to use smaller amounts. You should be doing 3 or 4 very thin layers.

Lorenzo,
With long wraps there are just a couple of things that are really important.
1. Use a fresh batch of epoxy that is large enough to completely fill the wrap at one time.
2. Spin your rod quickly and apply the finish quickly so that the entire wrap can be covered in a minute or so.
3. Slow or stop the wrap, use a brush to brush full length on the wrap to insure uniformity and smoothness of the finish.
4. If the finish has started to thicken at all and or are seeing a few bubbles, consider the use of "GENTLE" heat to slightly thin the finish and to also bring any bubbles to the top and out of the finish.

If any of the finish sags and forms high spots on the underside of the slowed or stopped blank, use a brush to wick off any excess epoxy.

The real key here is that from the time that you stop mixing your finish, until you are all through with your finish application should be less than 2 minutes. If you do this, the finish will still be nice and thin, will nicely penetrate all of the wraps, and will be free of bubbles and will have leveled nicely.

When checking with others who are having problems similar to the ones related by you have one thing in common. They are taking too much time to get the finish mixed and on the rod. You should be spending 120 seconds on the mixing of the finish and another 120 seconds applying the finish for a total time of 240 seconds from the time that you get the two parts of the finish touching each other until you have moved away from the finished wrap.

As others have said before. I use a fairly large disposable brush for doing long wraps. I fill the brush very generously with finish, apply the finish while spinning the rod quickly, Then, just use the brush to push the finish down the wrap, until the finish begins looking a bit dry. Then, fully load the brush again and continue.
After having the fully coated wrap in front of you. Use the brush to make end to end sweeps of the finish from one end of the wrap to the other end, to level, smooth, and wipe off excess finish.

Simple, easy and quick.

Take care and build well and for a long time.

Roger

Thanks, I will try those methods, sounds like it is alot better then teh way i had done, I guess teh more U do the better you get, especially with you guys helping out so much, Thanks!

Guys I put the first coat length wise, and it turned out pretty good except those little bubbles which took some time to get out, I sat there and blew through a straw, there was a lot of them, maybe I am brushing to much or to hard? but it all came out hopefully, ? is, do I do the same thing again for the 2nd coat?

I am assuming that you mean 350 to 400 mm since 40mm is slightly over 11/2 inches. Is your wrap open or closed? An open wrap will look unlevel due to the low places between the thread until after several coats. Also applying the finish lengthwise reguires you to brush it, like painting, and this can, in itself, cause bubbles.

For bubbles a super thin base coat is the way to go.

For leveling, wet sanding. Makes the finish crystal clear and smooooooth.

Take a playing card (or credit card) and lightly hold it against the wrap (with the rod turning INTO the card. That will distribute the finish evenly into the low spots. Wait 10-15 minutes for the finish to start to thicken up) Playing cards make great levelers and the can be cut to any size you want. 52 large spatulas/levelers for a buck at the local dollar store is pretty good.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

The resourse available on this site for professional advice will do much to minimize some of your problems.

Take the time to review the information available from product vendors.

[www.flexcoat.com]

[www.flexcoat.com]

Trying to get a level finish on labels or the open wrap described by Royce will drive you bananas if you try to apply finish within the two minute window described in one of the above posts. The context of wordsingh in Roger Seider's talks are "for butt wraps and labels wait at least five minutes, until polomerization starts, do the guides first and then the butt wraps and labels - you will have fewer problems of the finish moving around on its own...

About the bubbles. I will mix the finish, then let it sit while I get a piece of foil ready. Some of the bubbles that formed while I mixed it will rise and pop. Pour it on the foil and wait a minute for it to spread out and the bubbles to rise. Blow on it with a straw pops all the bubbles. Then I put my brush into a corner of the epoxy and work all the bubbles out of the brush before I do anything on the rod. When I brush the epoxy onto the rod it's more like allowing the brush to spread the epoxy, rather than brushing the surface of the rod with the bristles. It is easier to start with the brush fully loaded than with a slightly loaded brush, just gob it on and take some off later if it starts to drip. I think it works better to apply it around the rod first before spreading it back and forth.

Greg, how do ya work all the bubbles outg of tghe brush after the dip? just want to make it clear, do ya press the brush down or just wipe it?

If you want a level finish first start with a level rod. I have a small level that I use while I adjust my rod supports. When the whole rod is level then and only then do I think about mixing the finish. Hope this helps.

Slower setting finish. On long wraps I wont use anything but Aftcote finish on the 1st coat. It drys so slow, release's every bubble and levels perfectly. Put the coats on VERY THIN.

DR

Lorenzo, I push the brush down onto the epoxy a bunch of times until no bubbles come out of the brush because it is completely saturated with epoxy.

thanks Greg, I think i brushed the epoxy instead of just letting the epoxy come off of the brush with the turning of the rod, but in time i will get it right, thanks again.

well i warm up the epoxy after i put it in the cup with a hair dryer....as per inst,,stir slowly for 2 minits ..as per inst..there will be no bubbles in the cup...i apply with a fairly stiff brush slowly. level with a softer brush...no bubbles at all...dont get in a big hurry or you will make bubbles....if the epoxy starts to thiken in the cup use the hair dryer to warm it up and it will thin down a bit....