I was reading a post about the problem of getting epoxy in micro guides and how to get it out. I had an idea... maybe its stupid... I dont know... but what about intentionally plugging the holes with modeling clay or something similar before wrapping the guides on or at least before applying the epoxy??? Sound crazy??

What about putting the finish on thin to begin with and never worrying about getting excess epoxy everywhere in the first place. I have N EVER plugged, or even came close to a micro guide ring with finish. Color me just plain confused on this subject.

DR

could work. maybe like plummers putty or something less tacky.

I am with Duane, 2 thin coats, never have a problem with epoxy in the rings.

what is the best way to put a thin coat on those micros?, say like #2's, and 3's,becauyse while it is turning thats when the epoxy start to fill the rings,my dryer is turming at 11 rpm, I have been working with Threadmaster lite/

Hm,

Same here I have never had an issue with getting epoxy in my #4 s and I have built 15 rods so far with micros and not a one has had epoxy in them. I would imagine its in the approach ....some use a conservative type approach with using light coats and carefully applied with a fine brush . meaning a Good type brush. I prefer using a elongated stiff brush type its very flexible at the end as for reaching away from the eye its self and not globing the epoxy into it. But still I cant see it getting that messy as to getting it into the guide unless your doing some kind of pour slop on method ! If your not using a slip clutch with your dryer motor then your in harms way of getting really messy finish work IMO. even at 11 rpm you still have to stop for some areas or for some reason I have found in my labors of applying finish epoxy. I would suggest in getting a Slip Clutch its well worth the money ...I know there expensive and there may be alternatives in the photo gallery on the subject as well to curve the $50 expenditure Just my thoughts here . Good luck Hope this helps!

Rick H.

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Does your brush have a pointed end, cause iv'e been using those plastic brushes you but from Mud Hole, it seems no matter how light of epoxy i put on teh brush, it is always too much, the elongated stiff brush type are they pointed and stiff above the tip? Thank you.

Lorenzo,

I usually use a flat 1/4" ox hair brush for micros (a flat tip cut at an angle would be even better, but I haven't gone on a search for that brush yet). If I'm having a rough time getting epoxy into the tight places, I'll use a fine point scripting brush for touch up work. To clean, I put the brushes in a small cup of Flex Coat Epoxy Cleaner while I clean up any epoxy messes. By the time I turn the rod a couple of times (I turn by hand), the brushes are usually clean. The epoxy cleaner is some good stuff, and really takes all of the effort out of cleaning brushes. I don't know how I managed to keep brushes usable before I bought some.

Joe

Steve,
If you have a power wrapper, apply the finish to your rod with your power wrapper. That way, you can stop it when needed, start it when needed, and really have it spin quickly when needed.
If you start to get some droopy epoxy, just put the pedal to the metal and it will fling off of the rod. If you speed the rod up to the max, it will also quickly level the epoxy when you are first coating the guides.

After the epoxy is on the rod, leveled and nice edges, then transfer it to your slower turning rod dryer.

Take care
Roger

All kinds of answers appear on this fourm to reasonalble questions.

Most of those building custom rods are able to distinguish between the good and bad advice

I do not know rodbuilders who "dress out" with slicker suits and face shields to apply finish!

Bill,
I am sure that you know what I am speaking about when I suggest that I use a power wrapper.
By using the variable speed on the power wrapper, you can adjust the speed of the wrapper to get the rod finish to nicely flow to the area where it needs to flow, without having to wait for gravity and have to worry about it getting too thick before it gets there.

The epoxy is not going to fling off of the rod, uless it is very very thin, and unless you are spinning your rod very fast.

As with anything - use common sense, the finish flows nicely and leaves razor smooth edges.

Take care
Roger

It just does not have to be complicated!

I use plain ole kids craft brushes that are exactly like the ones sold by flexcoat with the black stiff plastic bristles. Trim out about 1/3rd of the bristles IF YOU NEED TOO (I do not!) and apply the finish.

No secret weapons, no cleaning, no mess, nothing expensive to buy. SIMPLE.

Dont put too much on the brush! Dip the brush, rake away excess off brush, apply.

I use Threadmaster lite.

DR

Roger maybe you can restructure this old quotation to explain your real position on finishing micro guides.

"'I know you think you understand what you thought I said... Do you realize that what I said was not what I meant."'

LOL

Rick H.

rwheil@msn.com

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Bill,
You bet. That certainly makes sense to me.
Roger

I use a 10/0 flat shader brush, high build epoxy put on thin, at about 200 rpms. It goes straight on the dryer afterwards with no sitting because I crank out 3 - 4 rods per batch of finish.

If the finish gets in the guide ring, I stick an alcohol moistened piece of paper towel twisted into a point through the ring. Done.

It's not difficult. I do find the smaller brush just makes it easier for me overall - edges, etc.

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About that dip the brush and rake off the excess, to me thats the best idea I heard yet, I mean not to say that the others are no good, they all are a lot of help, and good for a beginner like me, I am always thinking that I am not getting enough on, I should be thinking that I always hae the 2nd coat to do if that is what i want. its going to be a couple of days before I put the micros on, I will try that method and with the wrapper on a controled speed. Thank you, you ahve been a lot of help.

Good tips on the micro epoxy issue.


Bill and Roger, thanks for the entertainment!

Alex thats what I was trying to do , but have you tried doing that with #2.5 micros, while it is turning? lol! i guess you put the paper in first then go about with the rest of the application. Have a good one!

Just finished my second project with micros- I use a drying motor so it's pretty slow. What I did was to apply finish first to the stem of the guide where I had 3 wraps of A thread with a sharp metal pick. Dunk the tip of the pick to get a little bead of finish, apply to the area of the 3 wraps, then use a small brush for the rest of the wrap. No problem with finish in the rings. It may be that for these guides, slowing down will help.