I am going to build a rod for a friend of mine. He wants a 6'6" rod and the only blank (in orange) I can find is 7ft that has the right action. If I cut it down three inches to sorta compromise in the length will it dramtically alter the acton ?

Also what is the best way to cut the graphite blank. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Tom

Recently I ran the CCS measurements on a Batson XSB843 from its full length of 84" in 6" increments down to 60". The results show the action will slow down and the power will drop when you trim a blank. These results were measured as if I were trimming from the butt.

At 84" I came up with an AA of 78 and an ENR of 20.
At 78" I came up with an AA of 76 and an ENR of 19.
At 72" I came up with an AA of 75 and an ENR of 18.
At 66" I came up with an AA of 72 and an ENR of 17.
At 60" I came up with an AA of 69 and an ENR of 16.

There are various ways to trim a blank. Personally I use a dremel with a cutting wheel. Other builders use chop saws and other methods. They all get the job done.

Thanks,
Chad Huderle

Huderle Custom Rods
Prior Lake, MN

A dremel is best. Some builders also use it for guide foot prep. The dremel with a reinforced wheel is a great tool for the shop.

In case you don't have one, or haven't run out to buy a new one, you can use a triangular file to cut the blank. Just continue to score around the blank and you will get through it. Even a hacksaw will tend to splinter the ends, which you don't want.

Terry

Chad that is some awesome information. I see on the first cut of 6 inches the numbers only went down 1 point. If I only cut off 3 inches I would probably think it should be pretty close.

My goal is to try and talk him into the 7ft. rod which is sweet to start with, then cut only the three inches if he won't budge.

Terry
I have a dremel tool and that was my number one choice but wanted to hear if others had a better idea. On broken rods I have cut them up with my band saw which does an OK job but not what I would want to use on a rod build.

Thanks to you both for the response and great info.

Tom

I suggest you wrap a few layers of masking tape where you cut to prevent splinters. As you can see, the power of the blank will be reduced and the action will become slower. Baisically, the same effect will happen if you move the reel seat up the blank and make the handle longer.
Bill

I wrap with tape and then cut at the edge with a fine tooth hacksaw. Works for me.

[www.harborfreight.com]

With this wheel:

[www.harborfreight.com]

small, compact and works wonderfully well for chopping blanks.

Roger

Good information, Chad!

Bill, I appreciate your statement that moving the reel seat up the blank will also reduce the power of the blank and make the action will slower. This does seem intuitive.

I wanted to learn if rod builders on this forum have experimented with reel seats mounted at or near the very butt of the blank, especially on light/ UL blanks where the added torque that results is minimal. I have had limited experience trying this out - there is the risk of making the rod tip heavy, but low lure weight and micro guides seem to limit this effect.

Thoughts?

Cutting the blank will almost surely void the warranty.

If that's not an issue with you (or your customer), then go ahead and chop the thing down to 6'9" or 6'10". I find that I really like that length--not sure exactly why.

I cut mine down with a dremel.

Andrew,
I would not bet that cutting the blank would void the warranty.

But, to be sure, one should call the blank manufacturer to confirm one way or the other.

Roger

I am going to call and see if cutting the blank voids the warranty. That is a good suggestion and one that might make a difference in what we do.

Thanks

You can cut a NFC blank and not void the warranty. Jon & Gary told me so!!
Bill