Hello Everyone,

Fourth and fifth build and I switched to Flex Coat Lite from Flex Coat High Build. I had used syringes to measure out the high build but tossed them when I finished the bottles. I mixed the Lite by eye in a mixing cup and coated two different rods with two different batches of epoxy. The first rod is still slightly tacky after three days. I can leave a fingerprint mark in the finish. The second rod was finished 12 hours ago and the left over finish is gummy. I'm assuming I have unequal proportions mixed together. Garage has been 70 degrees throughout process. The rod from three days ago that is tacky has a fairly thick coat of epoxy. Should I apply a very thin top coat, which I planned to do anyway, or do I strip it off and start over? The rod that is gummy has a very thin coat where all thread wraps are still visible. Should I strip or apply over this or completely start over? Thanks in advance.

John

To start with, you should never try and "eyeball" a finish mixture. They are designed to be precisely mixed on a 1 to 1 ratio.
What you might consider is trying it on just one of the guides on each rod and see what the results are. If it doesn't work, nothing lost, as you would have to strip it anyway. I can't give an exact answer, because I have never had this scenario happen to me as of yet

Ron Weber

Just apply a coat of properly measured and mixed finish over them.

Mix a batch 50/50 by volume not weight and recoat. It will set up. You are not the first to have this concern and many have recoated with no concern.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/13/2011 04:13PM by Fred Yarmolowicz.

12 hours is not enough to worry over, yet.

I'd put both rods in a warm room for a couple days and if nothing changes, then you can begin trying to remedy the situation.

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When a two part epoxy is mixed a chemical reaction is started. That reaction hasn't completely started until you have fully blended the two components. At that point let the epoxy rest for two minutes. What happens during that time is the chemical reaction is fully started in the entire mix, most of the bubbles will disappear and you have a mix that will kick properly. Even if you haven't measured exactly you will have a good cure.
If you think for one minute that every batch that the manufacturer produces is the same, they are not. There is a tolerance in all the components from raw material to the finished blend of resin and hardener that is acceptable. So is the case when you mix the two together.
The aforementioned two minute rest will insure success.

Where epoxy thread finishes are concerned, you will not get a good cure if you haven't measured properly. The margin for error is slight, and the less you mix the more apt you are to fall outside that margin. This is why epoxy finish formulators advise measuring with syringes and mixing at least 3ccs of each part. It increases your margin for error. In the long run, mixing a little more finish is less expensive than having to recoat or start over.

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Joe,

You'll want to read the article on epoxies in the Volume 14 #3 issue of RodMaker due out in June.

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John,
If you apply a new properly mixed finish over the first it will cure and probably cure the top layer of the first coat. But it prob. will not cure the finish in the tunnels and at the blank / thread interface. If the tunnels are not filled with cured finish the giuiodes will/may have a tentancy to rock. Bottom line you may have to strip everything off and redo
Herb.

John,
I agree with the afore mentioned posts.
As important as the correct ratio by volume is the actual mixing itself.

Be sure to mix gently for at least 120 seconds or two minutes, using the fold over method with a fairly wide stick. This will get the mix well mixed with minimum bubbles. Also frequently wipe off the side of the stick, so that you don't leave unmixed mixture on the stick and contaminate the mixture.

Be safe and cure hard.

If you can, raise the area where you are doing your drying to 90 or 100 degrees. The added heat will often kick off a mix that is slow on curing.

Good luck
Roger

I'd certainly attempt to fix it before scrapping it. Like Tom said, mix AT LEAST 3cc of each component, re-coat what you already have, and let it cure. If you have a small heater (like a ceramic room heater) you can use it to help finishes set. Once your epoxy stops flowing just take it in a small room. If you have a dryer, set it up, and turn the heater on. Most of these heaters have fans so you will want a clean room w/o carpet...too much dust flying around otherwise.

Best of luck to you.