Hi All,

I just completed my first two diamond wraps. These are very basic with no underwrap.

Can some one tell me the best technique to epoxy this.


These are the issues I am experiencing:


More bubbles than usual which stayed trapped after drying, and even with slight heat.
I can't seem to get an even coat of epoxy. There are many hills and valleys between the thread and the blank, even with two coats.

There is no issue with the epoxy, as the rest of the bindings are ok.

I read somewhere that I should be brushing the epoxy along the blank instead of around, is this right?

Any tips and techniques would be appreciated.


Thanks,

Richard

What we do is in fact brush the length of the wrap while it is turning, using a little more finish than you would on a guide wrap.
Just watch out for sags, which will give you a "lumpy" finish.
When applying, do not "brush" it much, just let it flow off the end of the brush and then move it laterally.
Keep the "brushing stroke" to a minimum.
I also like a hair drier at med speed to gently heat and help not only remove bubbles, but also to help the finish to level.
This also helps focus more clearly on what the finish is actually doing and perhaps spot a flaw before the epoxy sets up.
If there is a mistake, a rag wetted with alcohol or epoxy thinner can be used to immedietly wipe off the finish on that wrap.
Better to see it and repair before the finish is hardened.
On a large blank, it may take 3 or even 4 coats to get a very even finish.
To keep it light, some folks just tollerate the "valleys".
Also, sz "A" thread make a "thinner" wrap which keeps the "valleys" shallower.
Hope this helps,

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

I do it a little different than Ron but get very good results.

I spin the rod at 120 rpm or so, and load up the brush with epoxy. I get the entire wrap covered and then stop the lathe.

I remove the belt so I can turn the lathe free handed. Then I brush left to right the entire length of the wrap, turn the lathe slightly so there is some overlap and brush again. Depending on the diameter of the rod it takes 12 to 16 brush strokes to complete the task.

This leaves a "lump" of epoxy on the right hand side of the wrap that I remove by turning the lathe quickly and just holding the brush gently against the lump. That leaves a nice thin coat of epoxy.

Next I always gently blow across the entire wrap with a straw to remove any lingering bubbles. Last step is to put on the magnifiers and pick off any airborne lint with a set of fine tweezers. Then let it go on the rod dryer.

It can take 3 of 4 thin coats to get the depth I want but the results are always very good.

Like with many aspects of rod building, whatever works out best for you.

Thanks,
Chad Huderle

Huderle Custom Rods
Prior Lake, MN

You have to figure out what works best for you, there is no cut and dry answer that is going to get you where you want to be, you have to keep practicing and figuring out the best method for you. I find the heavier the coat the more even it comes out, brush lengthwise, apply a lot of heat to remove bubbles and get the epoxy flowing - but not dripping or sagging. Epoxying is probably the most difficult part of wrapping a rod, so don't feel bad, just keep working at it and it will improve.

On am open wrap such as a diamond glass smoothe finish is difficult to achieve. The epoxy is self leveling but only to an extent. Each coat will build up the same on the high and low points. That is if you let the epoxy do the job itself. I have had success brushing length wise to build the lows up. You just need to know when it is time to stop. The bubbles can be reduced by applying cp before the epoxy. That will drive the air out of the threads. Also tight packing of the threads will reduce the bubbles.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

I am in no way a expert on dec wraps but on the ones i have done i have found that using a lite build finish on the first coat helps with the bubble problem.

Mark Crouse actually builds up epoxy very high with 4 or more coats, then uses a sanding block to evenly sand the epoxy level while rod is turning. He starts with 60 grit, believe it or not, then works his way up to a super fine grit like 1500, then applies a finish coat. If you have seen his work you will see that his epoxy comes out extremely well and very level. If you haven't tried this before though I would recommend practicing on a scrap blank. He says the trick is to build high. He applies coats with a spatula while epoxy is still tacky (within 15 mins). After you sand a little and wipe off, you can see the high and low spots and also see how close you are to the thread. This takes quite a bit more time, but the results are amazing.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

Richard,

I am a newbie but i thought I would tell you that I have been having very good luck with the Pro Kote epoxy. It takes a little longer to cure but I have been getting very smooth...even ..bubble free finishes. The longer cure time has been a benefit to me as it allows me more time to get the bubbles out before I apply it to the wrap.

The guys here told me to mix my epoxy in a cup but to then spread it out in a foil dish or on a piece of tin foil and I would have less bubbles. It works great....you can see the bubbles clear up. You have a lot of working time with the Pro Kote.

I like to wrap with D thread as I find it easier but....I found you need 3 good coats of epoxy to get an even finish on a big wrap with D thread.

The attached pic is a very amateurish wrap compared to what the guys here can do but I put it up so you can see what a good finish even a rook can get.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Using Mark Crouse's method and leveling between coats using a credit card as a wide spatula works for me.
Almost like Spackleâ„¢!!
I think I learned that from Mike Barkley.

"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble.It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." Mark Twain
John in Wethersfield, CT

ITS THE FACT THAT IT IS AN OPEN WRAP. THE THREADS CREATE A HIGHER LEVEL, THEREFORE THERE WILL BE BUMPS.

Take a playing card (or credit card) and lightly hold it against the wrap (with the rod turning INTO the card. That will distribute the finish evenly into the low spots. Wait 10-15 minutes for the finish to start to thicken up) Playing cards make great levelers and the can be cut to any size you want. 52 large spatulas/levelers for a buck at the local dollar store is pretty good.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

If and I will think you are using CP to keep your thread color

A trick I learned here is to put a drop of CP on all of your X points When a finish or CP is put on thread - depending on tension of the thread it may move Before this dries you can adjust and fix them Let dry Then cover it all with CP I would say at least two good coats

Then finish as many coats as it takes to get a lever coat

No heat let it do it's thing - level - I put mine on a fast turner then after coated turn to a slower speed

Bill - willierods.com