I tried the new Pro Kote. It went on nicely with very few bubbles but seemed to dry kind of on the tacky side. Checked it out after 24 then 48 hours still tacky. My mix was perfect. Has anyone else used this product?

Cure time was longer for me but ended up coming out nice and smooth in the end. If strapped for time and are trying to knock out a high number of rods, might be an issue. I had some other issues wth it that were my fault. I used to pre-warm my Threadmaster a bit on candle warmers to get it runny. I did the same with the Pro-Kote and think it may have gotten a bit over heated even though it was on the heaters for less than 3 min. When I applied the finish, it started to sort of pull a part and not flow evenly. Again, most likely my bad but think you have to be careful and just let it do it's thing on it's own.

I use it and really like it. Definitely takes longer to cure. I usually wait 3 days before I try to use one after applying the final coat of finish. Mine usually is tack free in 24-36 hours.

This interests me as I just ordered some. I have been using a different finish and like it but as of late it is the only thing I really need to order from that supplier. So in the effort to "streamline" shipping I am giving it a try. I have a few rods on the bench awaiting finish so when I comes (today I hope) it will go into the trial phase. Thanks for the heads up on the cure time.

I learned with my first finish job or so to leave the foil that I pour the finish onto next to the rod while it cures so I can "test it" I am sure everyone has that nice finish with a finger print in it. "it only takes once" I guess.

I have really liked the ease of workingf with the Pro Kote. Easy to mix, nice working time and very easy to quickly saturate a wrap. I put it on with a spatula. It is a thinner finish epoxy and therefore takes longer to cure and I find it takes two coats minimum on a wrap. Comes out very clear. Hope it holds up as clear and well as it is advertised. If I am in more of a rush for a finish job, I use regular TM. I have a definite need for both.

If it's still tacky your mix was no tperfect, or you did not mix it right. Yu might not like hearing that, you might disagree, but that is where the problem is if it's 48 hours and it's not tack free.

My above comment goes for ANY finish that doesn't set up, it is always 100% user error.

It goes on very thin and saturates very easily, so I do a very thin coak, let soak in and then let it rotate for a bit. After the left over finish gets thicker, I apply a second coat with the thickened epoxy to get the build I want. Makes 1 coat finishes possible with it.

This can fall under Billy's "user error" as well: many folks just use a POOR mixing stick, ie: a small round one. What you want is to fold your mixture together over and over as you "mix". Using a FLAT instrument helps acomplish this. Spatula's are PREFECT for mixing, those little white round sticks we've all seen as "mixing sticks" are far from perfect to say the very least.

DR

Another user here-all the rods I have built (7) have used the ProKote, which I like.

It does cure slowly and frequently is tacky at 12 hours. At 24 hours it is soft, and virtually tack free. By 48 hours the surface feels solid. My house is cool, and that may be part of the reason the curing time is long.

I have mixed as little as 1cc of each component with no problems with it setting up normally. I use a shot glass to mix and one of the mudhole spatulas to stir with. It is remarkable how free of bubbles this stuff is, even for a rookie.

Just opinion, but 1 coat would never work, so I just plan on 2 or even 3 about 12 hours apart.

This is a good product, and easier to use than FlexCoat Lite, which I used for a couple of guide replacements.

Drew

DR

I break a Popsicle stick in half and mix with it. Works well

Bill - willierods.com

I see most builders are quite happy with Pro Kote. Billy I'm usually errorless with my measurements and Duane I do use a spatula to mix. However I'm only human and could have screwed up. Thanks for the help guys. At least now I know the Pro Kote is a step in the right direction.

Billy,

What are you trying to say?

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Tony, mix up another batch and see what happens. Understand that ANY finish that you buy is made in a gigantic batch, I dunno hundreds of thousands of bottles of finish come out of a signle production run. Thre is no way that one person got a "bad batch" of finish, there would be 50 people with the same problems if there was an issue. I'm not trying ot pick on you, it is what it is. I've botched up finishes myself, it's part of the game since we're only human.

Bill, why beat around the bush? lol.

Bill B,

Only problem I see with wooden pop sticks is they hold air, and the air goes right out into your bubble free finish while mixing.

DR

There is one thing that seems to have been overlooked, ambient temperature.
I build and finish in my basement. This time of year it is usually about 55 degrees. It definitely takes longer for full cure in winter than summer.
If your finish isn't tack free, put it next to a register or another low level heat source.

Always learning,

Joe

i use prokote and my finish is hard to the touch within 24 hours...

Duane Richards (DR) Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Bill B,
>
> Only problem I see with wooden pop sticks is they
> hold air, and the air goes right out into your
> bubble free finish while mixing.
>
> DR

No matter what finish you decide to use mixing well is key to the final result - make sure it is all mixed (off the sides of the container too). When I mix epoxy there are so many bubbles it looks like whipped cream. Applied thinly and at speed (60+ rpms) and the bubbles will release. A little heat (warmer room above 65 degrees) also helps the epoxy flow more evenly. The newer finishes (AftCote, ProKote, ThreadMaster for instance) all flow more freely (viscous).

Bill,
I agree with you on the use of craft sticks for mixing.

I will take a dozen sticks and use my belt sander to sand off the ends - I like a full length stick.
Then, I use the sander to slightly round the corners of the stick so that it doesn't dig into the sides of the mixing cups.
I then mix up a batch of 5 minute epoxy and coat and wipe off a layer of 5 minute epoxy on all of the sticks.
The epoxy seals the wood, keeps bubbles from forming and being trappped by the wood, and it keeps splinters from forming off of the end of the stick. When I am through mixing, I wipe off the stick and am good for the next batch.

I have had issues both with splinters and or trapped air on a fresh stick. So, that is the reason that I coat the sticks first with epoxy so the wood is sealed when mixing.

Roger

WOWOWOWOWOWW!!!! YOu really WASTE that much time. Just get a metal spatula. I can't believe I just read that.

Man......Not sure if some folks over do things or I am just that lazy......I mix with what ever I have handy.... Most of the time I pry a brush that is stuck to the bench from the last time I mixed something. I will just use the end of the brush. I have a few spatulas and will use them when I can find them. I just put the parts in the cup hold it in my hand to warm it, tilt it at a 45 deg angle and mix turning the cup a few times to ensure I get it all. When the epxoy looks clear and I can not longer see swirls. I then dump on some foil and apply.

I am not the best finisher but bubbles are the least of my worries. A little heat from the gun and problem solved, guess I just never put that much though into it.