I have a couple of older Daiwa rods that I'm wanting to refurbish.
I'm wanting to go kinda Old School with both of them.
I've searched and searched. All the rod charts I've found suggest seven guides.
I do not want that..... I want as much casting distance as I can get.
The guides I will be using on both are older Fuji aluminum oxide double foot, with shock ring.
Could someone give me some approximate suggestions on guide size and spacing based on my preferences below?
(or an applicable chart online?)

One rod is a 8.5' 2pc composite casting rod, without a trigger (Apollo 1676). I'm wanting to convert it to a spin rod. It has a medium action (Cast Wt. 1 - 2.5 oz <> Line 12 - 30 lb). My preference is to use five guides and tip on this rod. I'm going to use a 40mm stripper and a carbide top (3/16" I.D. ring).

The other rod is a 9' 2pc "high content" graphite spin rod with four crappy white glass eyes and tip ((LOL)) (Regal 5327HCG). It has a heavy fast action (Cast Wt 1 - 4 oz <> Line 12 - 25 lb). I'm wanting to go with six guides and tip on this rod. I'm going with a 50mm stripper, like the original, and probably in the same position at 57". I am going to use a carbide top (1/4" I.D. ring).

I won't rule out that I'll ever use either rod for surf/inshore fishing. Mainly, I'll use them for lake trolling for hybrid striper or bottom catfish here in Tennessee. (or, of course, anything that hits!)

A #10 AO guide appears to be closest to the 3/16" tip I.D.
A #12 guide appears to be closest the the 1/4" tip I.D. (judging by the guides on the Apollo)

Thanks in advance.

(edit) 8.5' - 10,10,16,25,40 ?
9' - 12,12,16,20,30,50 ?
I haven't purchased the guides yet. I have always believed that a well designed rod will have guides that you can sight through, like looking through the bore of a shotgun. I just don't want to purchase a bunch of sizes for trial and error. I would still not be sure how to space them. Maybe someone has built a rod(s) with these configurations??



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/04/2011 10:23PM by Daryl Norvell.

Daryl

9' 6 guides
stripper at 57"
Distance from tip
5.9 12.9 21.3 31.2 43.0 57.0

8'6" 5 guide
Assume stripper at 55" tip to reel at approx 78"
Distance from tip
6.5 14.7 25.1 38.3 55.0

Both rods
Use single foot titanium frame guides for the top 2 guides to reduce tip mass and increase blank performance. You might also consider Recoil titanium spinning guides for these.

Eugene Moore

Daryl,
If this is an older rod, it is likely that it has a moderate or slow action. i.e. I expect that the rod might be one that makes a very gradual bend from the butt to the tip of the rod.

If so, it is possible that 5 guides would be just fine for this rod. The only reason to add a guide to a rod, is to put a guide to get the line to follow the loaded contour of the rod. If you can do this with 5 guides, only use 5 guides.
If you need more than 5 guides, add just as many as needed, but no more. \

Don't worry about charts, or recommended spacing. Just start to flex the rod, and place a piece of tape at that location. Continue to flex the rod, and place a piece of tape that the location where the rod flexes next. Continue to flex the rod, marking the blank as needed to have the line follow the contour of the blank. Tape the guides at this location, thread the line through the guides, including the tip, and fully flex the rod, and see if the line follows the contour of the rod. If so, you are good. If you have a portion of the guide where the line doesn't follow the curvature of the blank, add one or more guides and readjust the other spacing as needed until you achieve the desired results. Normally, you only need to spend a few minutes to determine the correct placement and spacing for the guides.

For an older rod like this, I certainly wouldn't spend large $$ on guides for the rods. You could even consider the use of a simple stainless ring guide for these rods. It is suprising how well, a simple, inexpensive stainless guide will hold up to general use.

Take care
Roger

I do 'Lipstick on a Pig' quite a bit for old rods. Unless you are trying to replicate the original look of the rod .... those older blanks make excellent fishing sticks when you apply newer, lighter hardware and you put the guides on according to what the natural bend of the blank dictates. If the reel seat needs to be replaced, a light, beautiful 'Tennessee Handle' on a old, softer fiberglass/ graphite makes a great pan fish and farm pond rod. Size A thread, minima guides, smaller/taller stripper, same size small runners, your own color theme, perhaps a little 'eye candy' ( cross wrap, feathers, snake skin, abalone,marbling etc), guides matched to size of reel and line to be used and you have a really neat-history rod. If any original writing or decals can be left on the rod, that is kinda nice. Try it out, you'll be pleasantly surprised.

Thanks Guys,

Eugene... After reading Steve's post, I'm thinking about just replacing the guides on the Regal with aluminum oxide of the same size, in the same positions.
On the Apollo rod, with a large 90 series Daiwa reel attached, the spool lip is at approximately 83". This is with the spool on it's innermost position of the oscillation stroke. Your measurements look good for this rod. That's a good starting point. I can adjust from there.
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Roger... No, I don't think stainless guides would last long, should I happen to hook into a few 35lb muskies or stripers !!! (wishful thinking)
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Steve... Yes, I'm wanting to stay close to the era of the rods with the guides.
Then again, you've got me thinking about just using five single foot guides on the Apollo.
After all, the model number wouldn't match the configuration (spinning instead of casting).
Perhaps some gold transfer lettering stating, "Converted to spinning by Daryl Norvell, 2011) :o )
This rod is brand new, although it has some gel coat slightly chipping at the label. I'm hoping I can touch that up, just to stop it from flaking further. Bought it in the 80's at a BigLots. I just haven't gotten around to doing anything with it. I'm not a baitcaster person.
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How can I safely remove the old finish from the Regal blank? (just the part from lettering to tip). There are quite a few places where the finish is chipped/lifted/bald spots; and the finish has yellowed. I read one persons post where he used a green pot scrubber, gently.
Is there some kind of product I can use on the butt section to assure it will accept a new overcoat of epoxy, without the likelyhood of the fresh coat starting to lift? I most certainly don't want to sand those sections. I would be sanding into the threads and lettering.
Kilz??.. I'm wary that Kilz would ruin the lettering on the Regal. The lettering on it appears to be on top of the finish.
I guess I should just leave well enough alone in those areas. It's just that I'd like to protect the lettering.

How well do aluminum oxide guides stand up to braid? I'm sure the guides I'm looking at aren't "Hardloy". Just curious.

Thanks Again, Daryl